OK, here's my stove

[BlankBlankBlank]

I also took advantage of the 11% rebate. Got the Myraid for $674 + 11% rebate. A very nice deal.

This is going to be more work for you but I think you should consider taking the hearth down inside of the fireplace opening. In other words - cut the center section of the hearth out and bring it down to floor level. If you do that, you can just set the stove right in the opening and the flue connection will be almost stright up. It will be a lot of work and some mess as you will need to cut out the hearth with a diamond saw take it out, then redo it to make it look decent. Not sure what is under your hearth. It may just be framed out with the masonary work on top of it. Take some front pictures first then print them out and mark them up, or photoshop them to see if the look will work for you.

Chris

I like this idea very much. The finished look would be similar to some of the old fireplaces from my home in the UK.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I've decided to leave it where it is in the photo with the tile base and use (2) 45's and a 24" pipe -- and keep my fingers crossed.

I recommend, like a few others, setting it up temporarily and burning a small fire or two prior to the permanent tile, etc. This way if you are very unhappy with poor stove performance you can correct any issues, change game plan, etc. prior to investing a ton of money and time in a finished hearth that doesn't work.

 

[mj5001]

Looks like I'm forced to use (2) 90's and a 24" piece of straight with this going up to the damper. Just came back from menards with (2) 45's and no way that will work even with the stove on the floor.

I'll just have to test it and see but NO WAY I'm cutting through my fireplace to get a vertical stove pipe rise.

Oh well --

may have a stove for sale?

we'll see.

 

[begreen]

Pull the legs off and set it on some bricks on the edges, in the fireplace.

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

I think he said that they were welded on....I would still cut them!

 

[begreen]

Yes, I would too. However, if this is just a trial and he is thinking of selling the stove if not happy, then that would not be a good idea. In that case I would just sell the sucker in fall, while unblemished and put in a 13 NCI, Drolet Escape 1400, or Napoleon 1402 and be done properly with it.

http://www.overstockstoves.com/50tnc13i--epa-certified-noncatalytic-wood-stove--1550131500.html

 

[mj5001]

The thing is so short as is, I hate to make it lower and as I near 60, I'm sick of bending over. I have all the right tools to cut the legs but doubt I will -- at worst, just wait till next year and get an insert.

Wish me luck, I'm going to try the (2) 90's and a 24" run to the damper opening.

After I put on the stove to pipe adapter, the first 90 goes on, so that bothers me that I don't get any vertical.

I think I can do a pretty good upward slope with the 24 " though and I am using double wall stove pipe for what that's worth. ?

AND --

I need to ask again, isn't there any type of fan you can mount toward the top of the chimney to help draw?

Like something low CFM that can be solar operated?

Or something that's completely mechanical like a roof vent would be? (but just one direction -- sucking air?)

 

[mellow]

I need to ask again, isn't there any type of fan you can mount toward the top of the chimney to help draw?

http://www.chimneylinerinc.com/enervexfans.php

 

[fossil]

...I need to ask again, isn't there any type of fan you can mount toward the top of the chimney to help draw?...

Yes, such devices exist...Google wood stove draft inducer. Keep in mind that wood stoves are all designed to operate by natural convection of air into the firebox and out the flue to daylight. If that's not working...for example difficulty getting a fire going, lots of smoke spillage into the room...then the system is faulty. It's either poorly designed or improperly installed...or both. A draft inducer is an artificial band-aid fix to the systemic problem, and just adds unnecessary complexity and expense to an inferior setup. Rick

 

[begreen]

The draw collar is designed for this. However, add the cost of purchase, wiring and installation an exhaust booster and you might just as well get the insert now.

http://www.amazon.com/Chimney-103339-Draw-Collar-Insert/dp/B004KSBG1U

 

[Huntindog1]

When you put in that liner you said you got off craigs list make sure you insulate it as with a liner thats insulated it will heat up fast and create draw for you. I would hold off on the draft inducer on the top of the flue.

 

[mj5001]

The motor-less types are reasonably price "Vacu-stack" etc? Well, at least I know they're out there if I need one. Will insulate the liner, test it and go from there.

I have a wind turbine for my roof and the slightest wind will get it going.

 

[mj5001]

By the way, here's a view out my back door.

Think I have access to enough firewood?

The woods are all around me.

How well do naturally felled trees burn? Every year, huge branches or entire trees can come down and was wondering, if they've been down a couple of years -- 2,3.4 ? --
are they sort of "naturally" seasoned?

(If they're smaller diameter, that is).

Of course, after a while, rotting sets in -- but how bad does rotting have to get before the fuel is worthless?

I have downed trees everywhere -- some old, some recent, and everything in between.

 

[mellow]

The Wood Shed is a good place to start reading about different kinds of wood and seasoning.

 

[Cueman]

Naturally felled trees burn the same as saw felled trees. You'll get plenty of usable wood off the dead fall, just buck it up and get it off the ground before it rots. Then split later.

MJ5 I think your set up with the 90s IS going to work fine. Sometimes we over think things here. You did right by going DOUBLE wall on the connector pipe, as that first 90 is going to take some serious and direct heat. I believe it will draft fine.

One thought I had for you to consider (if possible) would be to exchange your second 90 going up the chimney with a Tee. This will enable very easy cleaning of the pipe. You can put a bucket under the Tee as you clean the system. And without taking the connector pipe apart from the stove every time you clean the system. (Unless of course you do it once a year and want the whole thing apart anyway.)

However this may not work with the angle of your 24" horizontal run, so that a Tee may not accept that connector at such a pitch. It would have to be near level I assume. But you should only really need 1/8 to 1/4" per foot to keep the creosote running to the stove. But I suppose a max pitch on that run will only help your draft situation, so maybe scratch the Tee idea!

 

[logger]

If a tree has been down for a while and has not rotted, it has most likely seasoned a bit, more so than a live cut tree, but I still advise bucking and splitting and letting it sit for a year becuase it should still have plenty of moisture int it. Wood species plays a big part too.

 

[Huntindog1]

make sure your wood is really dry, I am going to say less than 18% better less than 15%. Go buy you a moisture meter they have them at lowes. If you try and learn that new stove with bad wood youll go nuts.

 

[mj5001]

I hope so, CRC.

Hopefully can test it out soon.

 

[jimbom]

I am excited for you. New stove in that setting will be a nice warm spot in the winter.
Induced draft fans are available, but they are expensive and high maintenance. If you have weak draft, consider more stainless double wall HT above the masonry on the top of your chimney. I really agree with the elbow to tee suggestion by CRC. I have a tee behind my stove and cleaning is a breeze.