Oil Burner Issues
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maple1
Minister of Fire
Is the pump moving hot water? Are the zones getting heat? Sounds like you have more than one issue - but there have been some questions asked more than once that haven't been answered yet.
Are the return pipes getting hot. Pump impeller could be gone, pump may be air bound. At this point you need a pro.
I do not think the zones are getting heat, if you mean throughout the house. I am going to try and track down this pump system and get you better answers.
maple1
Minister of Fire
I concur with those suggestions, probably a quick fix once you figure out what's going on.
maple1
Minister of Fire
There are two issues that I can see from what you are posting. Your circulator isn't pumping water, and you have no control over your burner. But we don't know for sure about the circ - you say you hear it running. But there are no wires hooked to the C & Z terminals in the stat - and you still haven't provided any more info about how your circ is powered. And you can't tell if hot water is running through your pipes. Then, the stat settings should stop the burner from running when the boiler gets to setpoint. Not going back to reread now - but didn't you say you changed stats? Are you sure the sensor & sensor lead are still good inside the well? If that got broken, you won't control squat.
This has been an interesting flurry - but I need to go to bed now. Maybe it will be fixed when I come back tomorrow.
This has been an interesting flurry - but I need to go to bed now. Maybe it will be fixed when I come back tomorrow.
My circulators have bleeder valves and I can confirm there is water. I guess what is shutting it off is some internal thermostat in the aquastat. But for some reason if I turn down the high limit it will still heat way up and shut down.
Another thing is that it heats up faster than hell. I am leaning near the blower motor. Going to remove and inspect it. It seems like it is overheating super fast...
Another thing is that it heats up faster than hell. I am leaning near the blower motor. Going to remove and inspect it. It seems like it is overheating super fast...
I am trying to keep up hold in there with me!
Water does seem to be heating the pipes and circulating but does not reach the tap system, it is as if it does not run long enough to fill the system.
The led sensor is fine as I replaced it.
I did change the stats, went to diff 10 because it says it in the manual, and I lowered the limits (I only raised them that one time). Now I have experimented by lowering them completely to find it running the same way. It is a freight train when it runs, no matter the high limit low limit diff settings. But the pumps seem to be working and are wired into the big blue control box on the side.
I have no hanging / loose wires etc so I am not sure what would usually be wired to the C & Z terminals...
Can you verify that there is water in the boiler? I would suggest that you manually crack the pressure relief at the top of the boiler, but they sometimes don't close completely when you mess with them.
I just did that, I have two, one right out of the boiler and another on the line, both let out pressure and water.
If my blower motor was not working at all the fuel would cook the system right? I have no way to tell if for certain the fan is working.
I do not think it is the circulators, they power on and I can purge water. The pipes to get hot, but the system does not run long enough to get it all about the zones. It over heats rapidly in an 'out of control' like fashion until it over heats which happens fast, usually no more than 15 mins. Back when it worked it took 45 mins+ to get it into the zones..
I heeded that info, but when I initially tested those B terminals I did not have the system running, I simply had some of the electrical components powered on...
Just so we're clear, when you say it is overheated what does the gauge next to the aquastat read?
maple1
Minister of Fire
Ok - what 'tap system'? What does that mean exactly?
I think you need to start over on some things you've said so far - each post brings more confusion. I went back to page 1 and you said more than once you had no power at L1 L2 but did at the Bs. That should not be possible. You either gave us bad info there, or have some really messed up wiring somewhere.
(I made it to bed but just had to bring this with me for some reason...)
maple1
Minister of Fire
Just that I kept that in mind...
This is for hot water, not hot air.
And, in the beginning when I tested the aquastat, it is exactly what I said. I read online somewhere that L1/L2 could test the low water cut off, and B1/B2 could test something else. There are two switches. I have to have them both on for it to run. When I tested those terminals, I only had one on. The system was not burning it simply had power to the system. I tested the L1/L2 and got a reading of 0, and when I tested the B1/B2 there was a reading of 120vac.
As far as wiring issues, this boiler had the same wires when I started. I am in CIS and study circuitry, it would be a little hard for me to mix up 4-6 wires in a aquastat....
At one point I replaced the aquastat, removing wires and installing them as I go to the new unit. This same procedure was done on the low water cut off. It is not like there are a ton of wires. This is not an issue that was done on my part, the limits have not always been high, it is a boiler, there is no hot water on the tap, the circulators work, their is water in the system, the aquastat replaced, ignitor system from the ignitor box to the intermitent ignitor, nozzle, oil filter, etc etc etc..
This unit stopped working properly on its own and I started replacing parts, installing them in the same fashion they were removed. The issue is not on my part.
This unit stopped working properly on its own and I started replacing parts, installing them in the same fashion they were removed. The issue is not on my part.
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