OAK?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
So it seems you did make some changes that may have affected the tightness in your basement at around the same time you started having these issues? You don't say whether or not you opened a basement window as part of your "de-winterizing" though. Unfortunately you cleaned the vent and "de-winterized" at the same time so it's hard to tell if either of those may have caused the problem.

Bottom line to me is that by winterizing the basement it appears to me that you are trying to make it warmer and more comfortable there. That alone tells me you should install an OAK. Not sure if not having an OAK is causing your issues but the benefits of having one are many, especially if you are trying to eliminate drafts in the basement. You shouldn't have to take off your side panels and clean your vent pipe every two weeks to have your stove working properly. Good Luck!!

I've been cleaning the vent pretty frequently due to the black ash . There wasn't a lot of ash that came out, but I just wanted to make sure that there were no clinkers in the piping from all issues I've been having. We normally winterize our basement during the winters so I just did it by habit. I'm learning that with the stove down there I won't need to any more.
 
Clinkers do not form in the venting pipe....they only form in the burn pot.


I guess I won't have to clean the venting as much then. I noticed that the stove burns well until there is a lot of ash in the burnpot (about 7 hours in). That's when the black ash on the baffles and window start.

Edit: I cleaned out the burn pot once the stove stopped burning. The stove wouldn't start even with the burnpot clear. It only started once I hit the reset button. Any ideas?
 
The thermostat shut the stove off?? Can you just let it idle at low flame till it calls for heat ?? Don't have that model, but some will do that...So I guess the question would be WHY do you have to hit the reset button to fire it up....what is stopping it from burning is the million dollar question.... Hope someone who knows chimes in soon....
 
The thermostat shut the stove off?? Can you just let it idle at low flame till it calls for heat ?? Don't have that model, but some will do that...So I guess the question would be WHY do you have to hit the reset button to fire it up....what is stopping it from burning is the million dollar question.... Hope someone who knows chimes in soon....


I'm not sure how you would idle a low flame.

The stove is working fine now with the exception of too much fuel. Our dealer set the control box to 3 instead of 2 because of an earlier issue. We're going to try and bring it back to a 2 later.

The only problem we are having now is that it will not cycle at all any more. Our thermostat's heat anticipator is at .15. Could this be an issue?
 
MommyOf4, what happens when you manually turn up the thermostat? Still no start??
 
The stove will usually start ok now if I turn up the thermostat or hit the reset button. It just won't cycle...meaning re-start after the initial run
 
Status
Not open for further replies.