NOB... looking for some recomendations with what I want.

[joshuaboston]

It might but did you read my post? https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...dations-with-what-i-want.144970/#post-1954595

Do you have a plan B should stove+liner still not draft well?

I don’t really have a plan B. I can tell you that I live in a town house… many people do not have an issue with their fire place, but their fire place is not opened in two sides.
I seal the windows because the draft is great, I can’t imagine that my place is sealed so well even after I seal the windows since the developer skipped so many steps when making the homes. Most of my neighbors have replaced their windows to solve the draft problems.
Right now I am leaning towards the Buck80. I will talk to the fireplace store near me about my issues.

 

[Grisu]

No need to get contentious. We are only trying to help you by pointing out the potential pitfalls. In this case, to make sure you don't spend several thousand dollar on a system that will not work.

I actually need a window opened all the way to solve my backdraft issue.

basically I have one pretty good air tight place.

Given that you wrote that yourself I don't think the concern I have pointed out is that far fetched. I have tried to explain why a liner won't be a "cure-all". Specifically in your case it won't be able to make up for a lack of air supply to the stove. And yes, when installing a stove without the option of adding an OAK you won't have a plan B. That's what I tried to convey.

At least make sure to get an insulated liner installed and use dry wood with an internal moisture level below 20%. You may not have a large margin for error to get a proper burn.

 

[joshuaboston]

This is why I am in this forum... perhaps I do need a plan b.
Does the VC Encore allow for a OAK? and I can use the back of my fireplace to create a OAK if worste case senerio arrises.

And come to think of it... most unites have multiple fireplaces... mine only has one... perhaps this is why I have this back draft problem... then again perhaps it is becuase of the design of the fireplace itself.

 

[joshuaboston]

No need to get contentious. We are only trying to help you by pointing out the potential pitfalls. In this case, to make sure you don't spend several thousand dollar on a system that will not work.




Given that you wrote that yourself I don't think the concern I have pointed out is that far fetched. I have tried to explain why a liner won't be a "cure-all". Specifically in your case it won't be able to make up for a lack of air supply to the stove. And yes, when installing a stove without the option of adding an OAK you won't have a plan B. That's what I tried to convey.

At least make sure to get an insulated liner installed and use dry wood with an internal moisture level below 20%. You may not have a large margin for error to get a proper burn.

I am back with the Encor Flexburn being my number one choice since it has a OAK attachments. Before I spend $5K on this stove… $2,650 for stove $350 for blower, $900 for 30' stainless steel duck and $750 for insulation plus 6.25% tax I need to know that it will work. I will not purchase anything without knowing if I can install an outside air kit though my firplace (I think it is the only place I can do it).

 

[bholler]

I need to know that it will work.

Have you had a pro out to evaluate the current fireplace and its issues? There is no way for us to know if it will work or not even with an oak there is no guarantee that it will work if you have house pressure issues going on. The placement of the inlet for the oak is very critical if you put it in the wrong place it can make problems worse. I really think you need to have an experienced pro out there to evaluate things. But we can start here if you can tell us what size your current flue is? And the total open area of the fireplace.

 

[joshuaboston]

Have you had a pro out to evaluate the current fireplace and its issues? There is no way for us to know if it will work or not even with an oak there is no guarantee that it will work if you have house pressure issues going on. The placement of the inlet for the oak is very critical if you put it in the wrong place it can make problems worse. I really think you need to have an experienced pro out there to evaluate things. But we can start here if you can tell us what size your current flue is? And the total open area of the fireplace.

I have not had a pro come out to evaluate... the house was contructed in 1989... I am assuming that there were less then 5 fires ever created. The fireplace is 28" in height and is 47" wide... and I have no idea what size the flue is and I believe there is no liner.

Can I messure this myself?

Is there is OAK that works with the liner such as this???
http://www.amazon.com/Dura-Vent-3PVP-WTI-PelletVent-Thimble-Intake/dp/B00KBE08RA/ref=sr_1_16?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1438030424&sr=1-16&keywords=outside air kit

I am just doing research so at least when I do call a professional, I will know what some of my options may be and I will be able to follow any input given. But it sounds like even if I get a professional, there is no gaurantee for anything. I have even heard of installing a fan in my chimney... don't know if this is even possible.

 

[joshuaboston]

Lastly... I live in the boston area... can anyone recommend a chimney guy? Maybe this is not allowed.

 

[bholler]

I cant help you with a pro in the boston area but you can start by going to the csia site and searching for certified pros near you. If it was built in 1989 i am all but positive it is lined probably with clay liners.

But it sounds like even if I get a professional, there is no gaurantee for anything.

That depends on the pro. If we install something we will make sure it works. There have been a few that took some time to get working right but we have always gotten them to work. Yes you can put a fan on your chimney but you don't want to

 

[begreen]

Lastly... I live in the boston area... can anyone recommend a chimney guy? Maybe this is not allowed.

www.csia.org
(broken link removed)
type in your zip code

 

[Andy S.]

I apologize if I missed a similar comment scanning the thread but I think the fact that it is a townhouse is the biggest gating issue for a wood stove. Most townhome complexes I've seen have minimal yard space on the middle units. Even if its an end unit there may be association rules against the several cords of firewood in the yard. Unless the plan is to run manufactured fuel through it I'm thinking pellet may be the better (albeit not preferred) solution.

 

[therdlesstravld]

You know I wasn't basing my recommendation on a gas or electric fireplace on it being the best option, I was basing it on your EXTREME ignorance of the subject of wood burning. Your coming off cocky about the subject when you literally know nothing about it. As Andy S. Just mentioned; Where are you going to season your cords of wood for years? If your planning on buying wood that ain't gonna cut it friend you'll never get anything dry enough. You'll have issues the entire time with crappy wood and then come back here and complain that we steered you wrong.

Take a serious look at what it's going to take to burn wood in a condo. Do you own a pickup truck? How much wood do you think you'll get in your Prius? Are you willing to invest the amount of TIME it's going to take to burn wood. It's work just moving the wood and loading the damn thing all the time.

In short take a step back, swallow your little ego and really think about it.