No Timberjack... how do you buck without killin your chain?

[MasterMech]

Skip the timberjack for sure. And the cut/roll method works. That said, you WILL want a cant hook for log rolling. Very handy tool for the inevitable bar pinch situation too. Do you need one right this minute, no, but I'd plan on aquiring one for the future.

 

[HittinSteel]

Until you get a cant hook, a spud bar works fine......I've been using a spud since I started heating with wood.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Yea but you live in ALASKA... you guys have the strength of like 10 normal men !!

Your'e not from Alaska??
Man how big are those guys???

 

[firefighterjake]

Cut and roll . . . and since I'm so cheap if the tree is too large to just roll with my foot, I'll just cut a sapling and use it as a lever rather than buying a cant dog (although that tool would certainly work better.)

 

[Big Donnie Brasco]

Cut and roll . . . and since I'm so cheap if the tree is too large to just roll with my foot, I'll just cut a sapling and use it as a lever rather than buying a cant dog (although that tool would certainly work better.)

I'm with you Jake!
I am forever on a budget, and I am a tightwad! My grandfather used to say that copper wire was invented when someone tried to take a penny from me!

 

[MasterMech]

My grandfather used to say that copper wire was invented when someone tried to take a penny from me!

That's a new one for me....

 

[lukem]

For anything under 24" I'll just palm it with my left hand and lop off rounds with an 880 using my right. For the bigger stuff I pick it up and put it on a saw buck. No sense in showing off or hurting yourself.

Either that, or I cut and roll as previously described. You decide which works out best for you.

 

[nate379]

Well... yeah!

I don't have an 880 though? I have a 460 (limbing saw) and a 660 (main saw), will that work?

For anything under 24" I'll just palm it with my left hand and lop off rounds with an 880 using my right. For the bigger stuff I pick it up and put it on a saw buck. No sense in showing off or hurting yourself.

Either that, or I cut and roll as previously described. You decide which works out best for you.

 

[Big Donnie Brasco]

NO... that would be an 1120 !!

 

[Jack Fate]

I also have timber jack & don't use much .I use the roll method as most you all do & I use a plastic felling wedge to stop bar pinch.I've not heard that mentioned .Anyone else use a felling wedge for on the ground bucking?

just wondering

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I also have timber jack & don't use much .I use the roll method as most you all do & I use a plastic felling wedge to stop bar pinch.I've not heard that mentioned .Anyone else use a felling wedge for on the ground bucking?

just wondering

Guilty

 

[Danno77]

Guilty

Me too. You can't tell which wedge gets used, too. It's fallen into the cut and been kicked out by the saw more than once, which is why this is a bad practice

 

[Jack Fate]

Me too. You can't tell which wedge gets used, too. It's fallen into the cut and been kicked out by the saw more than once, which is why this is a bad practice

Ya ,figured I catch Hell for that.

That's happened a couple times, mostly the smaller rounds.

Sorry to say I will continue this until such time someone lets me in on a better way

Cheers & be safe

 

[MrWhoopee]

I also have timber jack & don't use much .I use the roll method as most you all do & I use a plastic felling wedge to stop bar pinch.I've not heard that mentioned .Anyone else use a felling wedge for on the ground bucking?

just wondering

No, when the kerf starts to close up, I know it's time to pull out.

The technical term for this is "cutus interruptus".

Also note, because the kerf pinches the top of the bar first, the thrust of the chain will cause the bar to squirt out on its own, if allowed.

 

[Ashful]

I'm just glad someone here bought the Dexter saw. Nice rig!

 

[DexterDay]

Someone from Arborsitsite bought the Pro that I had listed for sale here (and on AS too). Don bought the other 035 I was selling (non Pro 036, but has Pro plastic ) I got full asking on both saws. The one I listed here and there for $400 was a very nice unit, but I didn't think I'd get $400... The guy not only gave me full asking price. But then asked me a week later to sell him this one (after I already promised Don). That guy has given me a bunch of Prop's on AS.

Don should be pretty happy with this saw. Its almost all new (crank and bottom end are untouched) but everything else has been rebuilt or replaced.

 

[bogydave]

Don should be pretty happy with this saw. Its almost all new (crank and bottom end are untouched) but everything else has been rebuilt or replaced.

Did it get a muffler mod?

 

[DexterDay]

Yes. I opened up the factory port (almost double and opened a Slit in front of it). It ran pretty good (really good) When it left here

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

You just spoiled that boy ! He will be disappointed if he ever bought a stock saw!

 

[Scols]

Don I have a Timberjack and I find it very useful. First of all its no more work to reposition a log on the timber jack than it is to constantly be rerolling a log. In fact I usually just drag more of the log into position on the jack rather than putting it down and picking it back up in a new position. As far as the foot sinking into soft ground ,this is easily solved by putting a piece of scrap 2x or plywood underneath. And finally, the 8" that the jack lifts the log makes a big difference in how your back feels at the end of a long session of bucking . A wise man once told me that if you spend your day with your ass higher than your head then your doing something wrong. So why do any extra bending. Plus with a jack you dont have to mess with wedges etc. Besides if you dont like the jack feature it takes about 30 seconds to take it off and now you have a cant hook.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Don I have a Timberjack and I find it very useful. First of all its no more work to reposition a log on the timber jack than it is to constantly be rerolling a log. In fact I usually just drag more of the log into position on the jack rather than putting it down and picking it back up in a new position. As far as the foot sinking into soft ground ,this is easily solved by putting a piece of scrap 2x or plywood underneath. And finally, the 8" that the jack lifts the log makes a big difference in how your back feels at the end of a long session of bucking . A wise man once told me that if you spend your day with your ass higher than your head then your doing something wrong. So why do any extra bending. Plus with a jack you dont have to mess with wedges etc. Besides if you dont like the jack feature it takes about 30 seconds to take it off and now you have a cant hook.

Hmmm. . . I can't say that I've ever re-rolled a log. Ever. With a logjack you are lucky to get 2 cuts before re-positioning. I'd rather roll a log once (especially if it's a big log) than have a new wrestling match every 2 cuts. But what do I know? I think each of us has to figure out what doesn't work.

As for the @$$ to head ratio, 90% of that can be remedied with a 24"+ bar. Running those little ticklers with a short bar one is bound to be bent over most of the day.

 

[smokinj]

Hmmm. . . I can't say that I've ever re-rolled a log. Ever. With a logjack you are lucky to get 2 cuts before re-positioning. I'd rather roll a log once (especially if it's a big log) than have a new wrestling match every 2 cuts. But what do I know? I think each of us has to figure out what doesn't work.

As for the @$$ to head ratio, 90% of that can be remedied with a 24"+ bar. Running those little ticklers with a short bar one is bound to be bent over most of the day.

Get the 82 inch cannon bar and stay in the truck!

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Get the 82 inch cannon bar and stay in the truck!

I was going to put a 32" Cannon on my 440, but it was not compatible with Stihl round bit skip tooth chain.

 

[smokinj]

I was going to put a 32" Cannon on my 440, but it was not compatible with Stihl round bit skip tooth chain.

I think I only paid 60.00 for a stihl 32 inch for my 460.

 

[Ashful]

Whatever my pursuit, whether it be felling and bucking trees or cooking, I watch what the pros use and wear. Then I buy and learn to use as close to that as my budget will permit. I've never seen a pro use a timber jack, but I've seen many peaveys and cant hooks.

After felling and limbing, I grab my 20" stick and top-handle saw, and run down the log marking off 20" increments. Takes just a few seconds. Then I grab the 036 or 064, and cut thru 80-90% at each mark. Roll the log once, and finish each cut. Easy peasy.