News on epa 2020 certified combination wood furnaces
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True but if the power is out I don't have water anyway
Two summers ago we had a power outage. Like bholler, our water is from our well. When power came back on there was a big surge. It fried a bunch of our appliances, including the thermostats on the DHW heating elements. I didn't even know this for hours later, after we ran out of hot water. Power was out for 4-5 hours, plus another 3-4 hours of water use. We have an older 40 gal heater. The only extra insulation is between the tank and foundation. A good heater will hold it's heat.
Caddy Advanced | Caddy Furnaces
Scroll down to the bottom under “alternate source of heat”. Series permitted only in Canada. Of course, I am not an HVAC professional, nor is this from a regulatory source, but PSG probably won’t warranty the furnace if it’s not installed as permitted. Maybe this is just for the new furnace but I remember seeing it for the older Caddy as well.
I just described my combo furnace setup in the https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/looking-at-new-wood-furnaces.192216/
forum posted today, Jan 5, 2024. Rather than re-post it here, you can visit the other forum and see it "once" the moderator reviews it.
Or if you want, I can re-post it here upon request.
Mark
forum posted today, Jan 5, 2024. Rather than re-post it here, you can visit the other forum and see it "once" the moderator reviews it.
Or if you want, I can re-post it here upon request.
Mark
Stumbled onto this older conversation. Building another structure so I need another wood furnace. My house has used a Charmaster for 20 years without a hitch. They are out of business even when their product was excellent. It was designed as a wood - gas/oil combination. In my case, our county has a dam with low priced electricity so I decided to install the electric coils myself.
I moved the blower back 5 inches, cut a hole in the side of the furnace and placed the coils in a frame I built, and installed the assembly, then hid it with a cover plate, and built a cover to cover the blower sticking out in the rear. I then installed a dual heat pump thermostat. Using a relay switch, 1st call is for wood heat and it opens the draft door. If the house temp. drops 2 more degrees, the 2nd call then is for the electric coils to activate. The blower runs with either heat source.
This system has worked great for20 years. I start a fire before heading to work (24 hour shift) knowing that the house is warm when I return the next day even after the firewood is gone. As for power failure, I have a back up generator so that keeps it secure. Even then, I have a propane wood stove (my most expensive fuel) as a 3rd backup source. I have 100 acres of timberland so a wood furnace is adequately fed.
I forgot to mention, my Charmaster came with a stainless steel U shaped water tube inside the fire chamber that heats water in a water heater (not hooked up for electricity) w a circulation pump and a one way water valve in the path. The furnace heats the water and when my electric heater needs water it gets it preheated from wood furnace water heater. Electric heaters are one of the greatest electric consumers in a house.
Mark
I moved the blower back 5 inches, cut a hole in the side of the furnace and placed the coils in a frame I built, and installed the assembly, then hid it with a cover plate, and built a cover to cover the blower sticking out in the rear. I then installed a dual heat pump thermostat. Using a relay switch, 1st call is for wood heat and it opens the draft door. If the house temp. drops 2 more degrees, the 2nd call then is for the electric coils to activate. The blower runs with either heat source.
This system has worked great for20 years. I start a fire before heading to work (24 hour shift) knowing that the house is warm when I return the next day even after the firewood is gone. As for power failure, I have a back up generator so that keeps it secure. Even then, I have a propane wood stove (my most expensive fuel) as a 3rd backup source. I have 100 acres of timberland so a wood furnace is adequately fed.
I forgot to mention, my Charmaster came with a stainless steel U shaped water tube inside the fire chamber that heats water in a water heater (not hooked up for electricity) w a circulation pump and a one way water valve in the path. The furnace heats the water and when my electric heater needs water it gets it preheated from wood furnace water heater. Electric heaters are one of the greatest electric consumers in a house.
Mark
Reaching out to LogCabinFever, here in CT. We have a Yukon furnace since we bought this home (12 years ago). Now that Yukon is out of business, do you have any CT contacts for service on this furnace? I had a guy come out from TNT in Litchfield a couple years back but he is not responding to my recent calls for assistance. Thanks!
So, this question has been asked a lot. Unfortunately, many contractors and furnace specialists won’t touch the unit. They see it as a liability since it’s not a furnace that they deal with. When you bought the house, did the previous owner supply you with the furnace owners manual? Is there a model number or serial number on the furnace anywhere?
What I’m getting at is that you are most likely out of luck for a “professional” to service the unit. But there are plenty of people online that could help you with anything specific, even if you aren’t remotely familiar or even comfortable doing it. What is it that has to be serviced? Are you having any particular issues with the unit?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Thanks for the response!
Yes we have the manuals. Model # LWO-112, oil fired.
I don't know if we need service on it. The issue is, when its dark in the room, you can look down into the outside heating panel and see there is a flame down below. Never noticed this before. We replaced the bricks last year and that local company came in 2020 and he said it was running perfect. Are we supposed to be able to see that or did some part wear away and its now viewable?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
You have a hole in your firebox or heat exchanger then! Do not use it like this, not safe! Wouldn't hurt to pop that grill off and get a better look at what you are dealing with exactly...I had to take mine all part to get it in (and out), so I am familiar with the pieces...although its been a while back now.
Yukon is gone, so unless you found some NOS parts somewhere, the only other option is get a welder in there to patch it up...that or buy a used one to replace it...every once in a while I see a new/unused one pop up for sale on FBMP or CL...
Oh man, thanks for the info! We have not burned wood since we've seen this. Thought there was something missing.
Take a better look at it tomorrow. I was actually thinking about going to the local dealer for PSG and seeing about a new furnace, with oil and wood options. Lots of wood on our property. Want to sell this place in the next few years and it might be an issue
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
They make a nice furnace...I really like my Kuuma, but I can't fault someone for buying a SBI/PSG furnace...once you have one you'll never want that Husky again (although they did make some heat!)
On the issue of fixing our Yukon Model # LWO-112, oil fired furnace, and this hole in the firebox or heat exchanger..., just wondering if there is any one in the Northeast, that has one of these exact models, that we can connect with to be able to take a look at a "working properly" one?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
The Yukon Husky is the same machine now matter if it's LWO, LWG, RWO, RWG...that's just left or right hand flue, and oil or gas burner put on it...just FYI. They sold a ton of these furnaces too!
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
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Thanks brenndatomu! Nice find. I contacted him yesterday but it was already sold sadly 
Hello all, question on a Yukon Husky wood/oil/coal furnace. We noticed we can see the reflection of the flame looking down into the vent on the outside of the furnace (with the oil burning). We were told here on this forum that we have a hole in our firebox. Since there is no one that will repair or work on this obsolete furnace we need to try to do the repair ourselves. Is there anyone that knows if there is fiber material on top of the fire box, below the plenum (or in between the fire box and the plenum). Thanks!
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
@JsCabin
The top of the firebox itself does not have any insulation (fiber material) but if the bad spot is in the fuel oil pot, that is lined with some sort of precast insulation material. I doubt you will be able to find that new anywhere since Yukon is long gone now, but I do have a used one, that as I recall, isn't in too bad of shape...but if the pot itself has a hole in it (it does if you can see light from that area) the pot itself will need to be repaired...and just FYI, it does just bolt on to the main firebox, so it could be taken off for the repairs, but you are going to have to remove a bunch of the sheet metal to make this happen I think...it's not complicated to take these things apart, but it'll take a lil time...once apart I'd think it'd be easy enough to find a local welder/shop to do the repairs. Any gaskets that are needed can be cut from generic ceramic fiber material ordered from wherever
The top of the firebox itself does not have any insulation (fiber material) but if the bad spot is in the fuel oil pot, that is lined with some sort of precast insulation material. I doubt you will be able to find that new anywhere since Yukon is long gone now, but I do have a used one, that as I recall, isn't in too bad of shape...but if the pot itself has a hole in it (it does if you can see light from that area) the pot itself will need to be repaired...and just FYI, it does just bolt on to the main firebox, so it could be taken off for the repairs, but you are going to have to remove a bunch of the sheet metal to make this happen I think...it's not complicated to take these things apart, but it'll take a lil time...once apart I'd think it'd be easy enough to find a local welder/shop to do the repairs. Any gaskets that are needed can be cut from generic ceramic fiber material ordered from wherever
Thanks for the reply. This furnace has been in this house for years ( we have lived here 14 years). I can't recall which of the next 2 issues happened in which sequence. We hired a chimney company, there was a guy on the roof and one in the basement. My wife later said the basement guy vacuumed out the furnace. Next during a power outage last fall and walking past the furnace in darkness there is a vent that was cut into the plenum to heat the basement. I glanced in the vent and noticed the flicker of light from the oil burner. There is a hole obviously in the firebox above the feed door. How can this be?? I thought I remember seeing a rigid styrofoam like material at the top of the firebox years ago, probably like a material in the burner area. Could the insulation have deteriorated over time? been vacuumed by the chimney guy? I'm at a loss for how that furnace could have gotten to the condition it now is in?? So we haven't burned any wood trying to get past the cold here in Conn. I was intending to take the plenum off along with 2 12" ducts to get at this hole. I ran into a guy who had a roll of that ceramic insulation material and I bought it all. I was thinking of making a pad to fill the hole and lay a fire brick on top to keep it in place. I cut off a test piece and tried burning it with a plumbers torch...didn't touch it. Some sort of patch would probably be best fashioned from SS, which is a bear to bend and drill. I really wish I paid closer attention to the top of that firebox over the years, just never occured to me this could happen. Thanks, AJ
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
The very top of the firebox is just steel...but there are steel baffles mounted inside that the flue gasses have to go around to get out, that's what you'd be looking at if you are looking in the loading door and look straight up...neither one of those surfaces have any insulation on them normally...you very well may have just seen a thick layer of soot/flyash...that can look like insulation.
If you can see the hole and it's on top of the firebox, you could glue a firebrick on there using furnace cement...it won't be easy to remove later on though.
SS is not that hard to work with, if you know how.
If you can see the hole and it's on top of the firebox, you could glue a firebrick on there using furnace cement...it won't be easy to remove later on though.
SS is not that hard to work with, if you know how.
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