I just installed a WSK-MLT-GLX and now I can not get a pilot or flame of any sort. I have checked and double checked the wiring. Has anyone had this issue? Any trouble shooting help would be appreciated.
New WSK-MLT
- Thread starter TraciS
- Start date
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What type of fireplace do you have? Do you have and know how to use a voltmeter and manometer? Is this a new fireplace, old fireplace? Gas or lpg. Did it work before this new switch? Need lots more info.
We have a Heat & Glo 6000 GLX series. We have used a manometer and a voltmeter. Do you know what the output on the orange wires should be? It seems low. The manometer does show 10 on the LP. Our fireplace did work prior to this installation except the hi/lo flame. That is why we had a service tech out and he is the one discovered that there was a recall on the control box/wall switch that we had. On the new WSK-MLT is it normal for the ember lights to come on when pushing the flame button. The lights do go on/off with the AUX button. There is clicking in the control box and the hi/lo solenoid when trying to ignite.
That is the same manual that came with the new parts. I have checked and triple checked the wiring. All is correct. Any other ideas? What about the FOL capacitor?
The Flame out of Log solenoid shouldn't have any effect on the initial start up of the fireplace. Is that part wired correctly as the manual outlines?
Yes it is. Do you know what the output on the "high voltage" orange wires from the controller box should be?
I don't know what the voltage is for that. Have you tried calling HeatnGlo tech support? 1-855-225-5448
Yes I have. The reps only walk you through what you provided and what I already had. Her comment was we don't install.....
I would take the glass off and be sure nothing is flowing out of the pilot. Listen close or hold a stick lighter and look for air pushing the flame. It may be working but hasn't purged air out.
Also what did you get for voltage on the orange wire to the valve?
Also what did you get for voltage on the orange wire to the valve?
Just the one wire? After the pigtail? We only checked the two orange wires before the pigtail coming out of the control box.
Does this look like your wiring? You need to check both voltage on the orange wire to valve. Place one probe on exposed metal of connection and other on metal body of valve then check the ipi module ignitor wire is snuggly connected. Have the glass off when you do this so you can listen for gas and spark.
![[Hearth.com] New WSK-MLT](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/1000008373-webp.336686/ "[Hearth.com] New WSK-MLT")
This is the old diagram with the old control module which was replaced do to recall. I have attached the new. What should the reading be?
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] New WSK-MLT](/talk/data/attachments/336/336718-501b484fa73c2475ab52098c357bd2df.jpg?hash=PdWr4ph5_M)
![[Hearth.com] New WSK-MLT](/talk/data/attachments/336/336719-bb34004ebc32b95153d798cf0023c19d.jpg?hash=j9cIaQASP1)
Just want to clarify a few things. Do you have the glass off and can you hear the ignitor sparking? Can you hear or see (using a lighter) gas coming out of pilot? When you said high and low I assume you meant 2 volts and not .2 volts? This is normal there is higher voltage to open the solenoid and lower voltage to maintain it open. Make sure the connection from orange wire to valve is tight
Because if you are getting voltage out of the ipi control module and you are getting spark to the ignitor, then we can isolate the problem to the valve.
Because if you are getting voltage out of the ipi control module and you are getting spark to the ignitor, then we can isolate the problem to the valve.
Finally solved our problem. It all ended up being a bad toggle that came with the new WSK-MLT-GLX. Thank you
