New Wood Stove and Chimney Liner?

[Hexa Fox]

The 5200 is. Its huge but needs an 8" vent The 3500 is fairly large but I don't remember the wood length.

Looking at them right now. It is nice because the log length is the first thing you see unlike BK for whatever reason. So the F3500 is 20" logs and the F5200 is 22". That is a welcome length over the BK to be honest. Also confirming the F3500 is 6" and probably why begreen mentioned it in my other thread already.

 

[bholler]

Looking at them right now. It is nice because the log length is the first thing you see unlike BK for whatever reason. So the F3500 is 20" logs and the F5200 is 22". That is a welcome length over the BK to be honest. Also confirming the F3500 is 6" and probably why begreen mentioned it in my other thread already.

Yes almost everything now is 6". Only the king 5200 and the big buck stove (I don't remember the model #) are 8" now

 

[begreen]

The F3500 is specced at 20" log length. It's primarily an E/W loader.

 

[bholler]

The F3500 is specced at 20" log length. It's primarily an E/W loader.

The 3500 box is pretty square

 

[begreen]

The 3500 box is pretty square

It looks rectangular in the parts diagram, only 3 firebricks deep or about 13.5". Is this in error?

 

[Hexa Fox]

The 3500 box is pretty square

And I am very much interested in either the two Woodstock's begreen mentioned and even the Regency F3500. I really like the idea of being able to stuff longer logs in there. I will just reprocess the stuff that is 24".

 

[Highbeam]

Both of my stoves will accept wood longer than 16” but 16” is the standard so that’s what I cut. Never know when you might want to sell some or give some away. It’s better to have wood a bit too short than a but too long.

 

[Hexa Fox]

Both of my stoves will accept wood longer than 16” but 16” is the standard so that’s what I cut. Never know when you might want to sell some or give some away. It’s better to have wood a bit too short than a but too long.

This is exactly how I feel too. I also have IBC totes that I have recently started using and it is either 16" or 18" pieces that can fit right next to each other and you basically have two rows. I figure if I had some extra wood I would sell it off and one of the first things I thought about is how someone may decline or be unhappy with 22" pieces.

 

[begreen]

Having owned a 22" E/W loader prior to our current 18" plus stove I can say we definitely will not go back to the wider E/W firebox. When I need a fully loaded stove I want to be able to use all of the firebox capacity, not 2/3ds of it.

FWIW, most all sold wood is cut to 16".

 

[Hexa Fox]

Having owned a 22" E/W loader prior to our current 18" plus stove I can say we definitely will not go back to the wider E/W firebox. When I need a fully loaded stove I want to be able to use all of the firebox capacity, not 2/3ds of it.

FWIW, most all sold wood is cut to 16".

So realistically I should cut the wood to fit the stove? So for the larger 22" Woodstock stoves I should try to make them 22" splits?

 

[begreen]

So realistically I should cut the wood to fit the stove? So for the larger 22" Woodstock stoves I should try to make them 22" splits?

More like 18-20". 22" is the maximum.

 

[Hexa Fox]

More like 18-20". 22" is the maximum.

Yeah but what I am thinking is maybe I should consider a stove with a smaller capacity and just cut the stuff to the proper length. Like I said, I cannot remember if it is 16" or 18" but one of those lengths does fit perfectly in two rows in IBC totes. The IBC totes definitely simplify stacking wood. I have yet to take any wood out of them for burning so we will see how much extra work it is to take it out of an IBC tote rather than off a freestanding pile. I imagine it will not be much different.

 

[ericm979]

I try to target 16" but they end up ranging between 16 and 18. I get two rows in an IBC tote stacked the same way you have it, with a little space between for short pieces.

I save the bladders and do some cutting and heat forming the plastic to make rain caps. I have grown to dislike tarps. They get holes in them and unless they're stretched tight (which makes holes sooner), condensation drips off the low points onto your formerly-dry wood.

 

[begreen]

Yeah but what I am thinking is maybe I should consider a stove with a smaller capacity and just cut the stuff to the proper length.

Do you mean smaller capacity or a squarer firebox? There are several stoves with a more square firebox in the 3 cu ft range.

 

[BKVP]

Hey guys, just a note on log length. EPA for the past 12 months has begun to review test reports. In their review, they have found a "concern" that brochures indicate certain log lengths yet the test reports show a different, almost always shorter "tested" length.

Given that manuals are, as of March 2015, federally regulated documents, EPA is identifying these discrepancies as "minor deficiencies".

As certificates come up for retest or renewal, EPA is requiring this be corrected.

If you test fuel that is 16" in length, but the firebox will accommodate a longer length, marketing materials (brochures/manuals etc.) must indicate 16". Since most of our units have had their certificates renewed, our materials are indicating tested length.

Just a point of clarification.

BKVP

 

[Hexa Fox]

I try to target 16" but they end up ranging between 16 and 18. I get two rows in an IBC tote stacked the same way you have it, with a little space between for short pieces.

I save the bladders and do some cutting and heat forming the plastic to make rain caps. I have grown to dislike tarps. They get holes in them and unless they're stretched tight (which makes holes sooner), condensation drips off the low points onto your formerly-dry wood.

Hey Eric, good to see you, was wondering if you were going to stop by. Yeah I stacked it all earlier this season. I am not sure how I am going to like the IBC totes yet. Like I said it definitely simplifies stacking and storing firewood. A drawback I am faced with right now is I do not have a tractor to move them. So they stay where ever they are when loaded. I still have the bladders. I knew that these tarps were not going to last. I have seen people cut them into two triangles and use them as a roof for the wood. How do you heat form them? Is a heat gun enough to form them up?

Also if you watch Hometown Acres he did kind of a rough estimate to figure out what the difference was in the volume of wood you would fit into an IBC tote stacked versus thrown in loosely. I thought it was going to be a lot different but you really do not lose that much space. I will probably keep stacking it as best as I can unless I get really lazy though. I have a limited amount of property where I live so conserving what space I have is a must.

 

[ericm979]

Hey Eric, good to see you, was wondering if you were going to stop by. Yeah I stacked it all earlier this season. I am not sure how I am going to like the IBC totes yet. Like I said it definitely simplifies stacking and storing firewood. A drawback I am faced with right now is I do not have a tractor to move them. So they stay where ever they are when loaded. I still have the bladders. I knew that these tarps were not going to last. I have seen people cut them into two triangles and use them as a roof for the wood. How do you heat form them? Is a heat gun enough to form them up?

A heat gun might work but I used a propane torch and a 2x4.

Pic of how I do it below. We live on a mountain and often the rain blows sideways. Always from the same direction. That's why I made them asymmetrical. The side that's covered the most gets parked so it blocks the rain coming from the side.


I used a hole saw to make holes at the ends of my cut so the material is less likely to tear, and a reciprocating saw to make the cuts.
If you look down from the top at the tote cage it's a rectangle. I made mine so the wider side ends up on top so there's a gap between the sides and the cage for air flow. A few times I have found some condensation under a cover but I've not seen any sign of it dripping on the wood. I posted a pic in another forum and some people were horrified at it being asymmetrical but I look at it as solving a problem (that most people don't have). So far my wife's not complained about them.

Also if you watch Hometown Acres he did kind of a rough estimate to figure out what the difference was in the volume of wood you would fit into an IBC tote stacked versus thrown in loosely. I thought it was going to be a lot different but you really do not lose that much space. I will probably keep stacking it as best as I can unless I get really lazy though. I have a limited amount of property where I live so conserving what space I have is a must.

That's good to know. I stack in mine.

 

[Hexa Fox]

A heat gun might work but I used a propane torch and a 2x4.

Pic of how I do it below. We live on a mountain and often the rain blows sideways. Always from the same direction. That's why I made them asymmetrical. The side that's covered the most gets parked so it blocks the rain coming from the side.



I used a hole saw to make holes at the ends of my cut so the material is less likely to tear, and a reciprocating saw to make the cuts.
If you look down from the top at the tote cage it's a rectangle. I made mine so the wider side ends up on top so there's a gap between the sides and the cage for air flow. A few times I have found some condensation under a cover but I've not seen any sign of it dripping on the wood. I posted a pic in another forum and some people were horrified at it being asymmetrical but I look at it as solving a problem (that most people don't have). So far my wife's not complained about them.




That's good to know. I stack in mine.

This is one of the ideas I was referring to. I have also seen people just off just the top cap and bottom to make a roof. However, I really do like the looks of this because you can see part of the bladder does fit over the tote at the top. I realize it will probably not offer the same protection as yours does from strong storms but I was always taught to just cover the top and be done with it. This would also probably prove pretty easy to secure with either a strap or cutting holes in the bladders and running a bungee through or something.

 

[Hexa Fox]

Pic of how I do it below. We live on a mountain and often the rain blows sideways. Always from the same direction. That's why I made them asymmetrical. The side that's covered the most gets parked so it blocks the rain coming from the side.

So I am not sure if you know or not but before I forget, this company is known for excellent tarps. I bought one for a expensive piece of machinery and it seems like it will last a long time. The great thing about it is that unlike many other tarps these are actually water proof. Only time will tell though. Harbor Freight had a sell on the camo one I bought for like two or three dollars so I bought that. That is why you see that on one of them. Super thin, I am surprised it does not have holes in it yet.

Repurposed Billboard vinyls + tarps, best prices

BillboardVinyls is your source for billboard vinyls and billboard tarps. We offer repurposed vinyls for sale, wholesale, export, and more.

www.billboardvinyls.com

 

[begreen]

If you test fuel that is 16" in length, but the firebox will accommodate a longer length, marketing materials (brochures/manuals etc.) must indicate 16". Since most of our units have had their certificates renewed, our materials are indicating tested length.

Just a point of clarification.

Great, more marketing material confusion. If the EPA wants the wood tested length, then that is the way marketing material should list it - Tested EPA length.

Considering the EPA doc also includes the actual firebox dimensions and cubic footage, these metrics would be the most helpful specs to list. Osburn used to list max loading dimensions years ago. That was helpful marketing.

 

[Hexa Fox]

I just had a visit from a local very highly recommended guy. I liked that he was very knowledgeable but the only thing I do not like is that he wants to do a good deal of modification to the chimney. I am not totally against it but instead of wrap he wants to put 6" round double wall pipe all the way through and pour insulation around it. The plus to this is if I were to go with wrapped because I cannot fit 6" round wrapped liner. It will need to be oval. He also said he would like to redo the thimble/horizontal pipe that leaves the house. He said one of the problems that would solve is some of the cracking and creosote buildup. He said the main reason he wanted to do it though is to make the 6" round pipe fit snugly and be insulated at the same time.

He said a rough estimate for all the work needing done was around $9,000 for a Regency T3500, crown work, liner and that includes whatever else I mentioned above. He said the liner would come with a lifetime warranty but I just simply do not like the idea of this being 100% permanent. If my pipe is wrapped in insulation and I make mistakes or something happens I imagine it will prove pretty simple to replace. I also do not know how I feel about opening up my thimble for this pipe.

What do you guys think? I have two more dealers coming out on October 13th and one is a certified Blaze King dealer.

 

[kborndale]

I'm confused, he wants to put pipe in an existing chimney not a liner?

 

[Hexa Fox]

I'm confused, he wants to put pipe in an existing chimney not a liner?

I may have been the cause for confusion. So I meant those as the same thing. He wants to put in a 6" double wall liner and fill around it with insulation rather than wrap the liner. Hope that clears it up.

 

[begreen]

I may have been the cause for confusion. So I meant those as the same thing. He wants to put in a 6" double wall liner and fill around it with insulation rather than wrap the liner. Hope that clears it up.

2 ply liners suck and filling around it is not a guarantee that the liner will not be touching the bricks unless spacers are used all the way down. It would be much better to install a pre-insulated liner or just insulate the outside of the liner with the wrap.

 

[bholler]

I just had a visit from a local very highly recommended guy. I liked that he was very knowledgeable but the only thing I do not like is that he wants to do a good deal of modification to the chimney. I am not totally against it but instead of wrap he wants to put 6" round double wall pipe all the way through and pour insulation around it. The plus to this is if I were to go with wrapped because I cannot fit 6" round wrapped liner. It will need to be oval. He also said he would like to redo the thimble/horizontal pipe that leaves the house. He said one of the problems that would solve is some of the cracking and creosote buildup. He said the main reason he wanted to do it though is to make the 6" round pipe fit snugly and be insulated at the same time.

He said a rough estimate for all the work needing done was around $9,000 for a Regency T3500, crown work, liner and that includes whatever else I mentioned above. He said the liner would come with a lifetime warranty but I just simply do not like the idea of this being 100% permanent. If my pipe is wrapped in insulation and I make mistakes or something happens I imagine it will prove pretty simple to replace. I also do not know how I feel about opening up my thimble for this pipe.

What do you guys think? I have two more dealers coming out on October 13th and one is a certified Blaze King dealer.

I don't understand why oval vs round would change anything as far as the crock goes. Either the crock needs work or it doesn't the shape of the liner doesn't matter.

Double wall liners suck.

You don't have enough room for proper pour in insulation in your chimney with a round liner.