new user getting Absolute Steel hybrid dialed in

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

BradW

New Member
Nov 7, 2024
1
Vermont
After many years of Vermont winters (and autumns and springs and stick seasons and mud seasons) warmed by a decades-old Vermont Castings Defiant Encore, we recently crossed the river and bought a WS Absolute Steel hybrid. I'm geeking out trying to figure out how much wood to use, when to add it, what air flow setting to use, when to engage the catalyst, etc. I honestly had wanted/hoped that the new stove would just blow us away, but although it's been super nice, it doesn't feel like a massive upgrade beyond our prior stove. So maybe that means the old stove was really good. Or else I'm not using the new stove effectively. Of course I've only been burning it for a month now, haven't gotten deep into winter. A few questions below. Any feedback appreciated, thanks.

1.I did not take a close look at all of the interior of the firebox before using it, but recently I noticed that there appeared to be some gaps between the top/ceiling of the box and the back wall of the box. There are three bolts connecting the top and back (right, center, left) and in between these connections the top of the box appears to be a bit bowed. See the photo. Is this normal? Perhaps this is by design to allow the metal to expand/contract as the temperature changes? I just want to ensure that combustion airflow, exhaust flow, isn't going somewhere that it shouldn't and undermining efficiency, creating any exhaust leakage risks, etc.


2. I've been successful at gradually getting the temp up into the 250-300 range on the external thermometer provided with the stove, placed on the pipe 8 inches above the stove. If I understand correctly, 250 is the threshold when I can then engage the catalyst. This usually requires that I have the air flow wide open to 4, though with enough wood in the box I've been able to drop the airflow to 3 or even close to 2 for a bit, while still keeping the thermometer at the 250 threshold. But I haven't been able to get it very much above 300, which is where it says the optimum burn is 300-600. I use hardwood that has been split and stacked under a roof outside for a year, so I don't think the wood is a huge problem. When reading about the stove, I had thought that the goal in terms of efficiency, using the catalyst and secondary combustion, was to get temp in the 300-600 range, engaging the catalyst, while also keeping the airflow really low. But I can barely get to 300-325 with the airflow wide open to 4. Maybe I just need to get used to throwing a LOT more wood into the box than I'm used to from our old, smaller, Vermont Castings stove? Is this an either-or situation, such that I can either (1) fill it with tons of wood, and keep airflow low and burn for a super long time, but the temp won't be super high, maybe not even high enough for the catalyst, or (2) I can keep the airflow wide open, run the stove at much higher temps and engage the catalyst? Or can I have it all, really low airflow, and temps well above 300?
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] new user getting Absolute Steel hybrid dialed in
    stove.webp
    165.9 KB · Views: 10
What kind of hardwood? If you are using oak it can take up to 3 years to get dry enough. Sounds like wet wood to me, get a moisture meter ($25 at home Depot or Amazon) take a piece of wood , grab an ax and resplit the wood and take a reading of the middle. It needs to be 20% or lower. How is your draft? How tall is your chimney? Is it class a or a masonry chimney?
 
Some questions, are you measuring surface temp of a single wall pipe with your thermometer? Is it a pipe thermometer?

Do you have a catalyst thermometer?
 
Stove pipe temps will be lower than your stove top temps. I’m pretty sure Woodstock uses stove top temps as their guide for overfiring and operating temps.

Give them a call or shoot them an email, they are very helpful.

It’ll take some trial and error figuring out any new stove. This stove is a bit smaller than your previous but it’s much more efficient and will stretch out the BTU’s over a longer period so it may not feel like it’s producing the intense quick heat of the Defiant.
 
Last edited: