Dialing in new BK Princess...

[BKVP]

High “er” burn rate? I thought the char phase was supposed to be at max burn rate using the max thermostat setting.

Depending upon mc of fuel.

BKVP

 

[slayer7]

Thanks for everyone's continued replies and thoughtful conversation. Overall, I'm enjoying the new stove.

Buy the manometer or magnehelic and find the target draft listed by the manufacturer. You could likely even be a little bit lower draft than the target (within reason) but anything over the target draft burns more wood.

Hey…burning a BK is already going to save you a lot of wood … and every -.005”wc counts.😂😂

Is there threads or further info on installing and using the devices mentioned above to measure the draft? I have an insert and the flexible liner is behind the surround shroud and not readily accessible.

At this point, I'm still not able to run the stove so that it cleans the glass without the stovetop temp heading towards 700 which I would think is getting too hot.

At least the seasoning seems to be all set as the burnt paint smell has diminished to mostly imperceptible. I did notice another issue though I'm wondering if anyone experiences: it seems at some point when I'm dialing the thermostat knob down to either half or 3/4 at or towards its final setting and the fire tamps down, I notice a slight wood smoke smell in the air, like a tiny whisp of smoke is getting in the room. I'm thinking it's possibly coming from the cat gauge hole? Is it possible that doesn't seal quite totally and the change in burning conditions cause a back puff or something? I've noticed this a few times, it's not a lot of smoke or smell but is noticeable and I would like to eliminate it.

 

[Highbeam]

At this point, I'm still not able to run the stove so that it cleans the glass without the stovetop temp heading towards 700 which I would think is getting too hot.

You must understand that just under the center of the stove top is a 1200-1500 degree glowing catalyst. The stove top temperature is influenced by that and is not comparable to the stove top temperatures from noncat stoves.

I advise that you stop measuring stove top temperatures. Throw that gauge in a drawer somewhere.

 

[slayer7]

Lol, gotcha, old habits die hard. Can someone (BKVP maybe?) however just provide what temp would be considered on overfire on this stove or is any temp in its normal operation acceptable?

 

[BKVP]

Any temp when operated per the manual is acceptable. There are far too many variables and locations where temperatures can be recorded. Just go by the catalytic thermometer. They are hyperactive when new and after a season, they relax a bit. If you are accustomed to fiddling with a wood stove, through all that out the back door. Just load the stove, set desired burn rate and go do something fun.

BKVP

 

[Hoytman]

If the stove glows orange it’s too hot.

Oh wait…on a BK it won’t do that because of the thermostat.😂🤣

 

[slayer7]

If the stove glows orange it’s too hot.

Oh wait…on a BK it won’t do that because of the thermostat.😂🤣

Oh, ok. Is this true? Even on full High, the thermostat will keep the stove from overfiring? I don't recall reading that anywhere...

Appreciate the replies. Anyone else have any ideas about the smoke smell?

 

[Hoytman]

I won’t say it isn’t possible, but by design it is highly unlikely to over-fire. In fact, should the bi-metallic spring fail it is probably designed to shut the stove down. I can’t say for sure the BK is designed that way, but my stove (Hitzer) also has a bi-metallic and it would be near impossible by design for it to over-fire.

If you’re too hot turn it down, if you’re too cold turn it up.

 

[BKVP]

I won’t say it isn’t possible, but by design it is highly unlikely to over-fire. In fact, should the bi-metallic spring fail it is probably designed to shut the stove down. I can’t say for sure the BK is designed that way, but my stove (Hitzer) also has a bi-metallic and it would be near impossible by design for it to over-fire.

If you’re too hot turn it down, if you’re too cold turn it up.

The blade is parameter weighted to close in event of spring failure, correct.

BKVP

 

[BC_Josh]

I did a lot of hot burning. Noticed that my flame shield for the catalyst was slightly warped.... Watch you don't get too, too hot!

Also, make sure the cat probe is set properly. Manual should say how to adjust if it's not. Mine says to take it out of the stove, let it sit and get to room temperature, then you can loosen the nut on top, and set the red needle to the bottom line at the inactive zone. Mine was quite a bit lower than that, and I wasn't getting accurate cat temp readings.

 

[BC_Josh]

Also, you should check your chimney and make sure you're not getting excessive creosote buildup seeing that it's a new system and all and you won't really know for sure until you check it out. My two cents anyway. I had a chimney fire a week ago running my smaller Blaze King. Not fun.

 

[BKVP]

I did a lot of hot burning. Noticed that my flame shield for the catalyst was slightly warped.... Watch you don't get too, too hot!

Also, make sure the cat probe is set properly. Manual should say how to adjust if it's not. Mine says to take it out of the stove, let it sit and get to room temperature, then you can loosen the nut on top, and set the red needle to the bottom line at the inactive zone. Mine was quite a bit lower than that, and I wasn't getting accurate cat temp readings.

Keep in mind from my prior posts, the flame shields are cut on a shear and have some wiggle in them brand new. Good thing to always make certain the do the inspections you are doing!

BKVP

 

[Ashful]

I have to re-flatten my flame shields every year, especially the one on the stove that I run harder. No biggie, it's pretty easy to bend by hand, and it's still doing what it needs to do even when not perfectly flat.

 

[BC_Josh]

I have to re-flatten my flame shields every year, especially the one on the stove that I run harder. No biggie, it's pretty easy to bend by hand, and it's still doing what it needs to do even when not perfectly flat.

Thanks, good to know.

 

[Ashful]

Thinking back, I'm probably also exaggerating when I say "every year". I've owned these stoves almost 9 years, and I've probably re-flattened the flame shield on the one stove less than a half dozen times, and the second stove maybe only 3 times. You'll notice if it's sagging in the middle when you remove it for spring cleaning, and just bend it back flat by hand, if it looks like it's worth the effort.

 

[BC_Josh]

Thinking back, I'm probably also exaggerating when I say "every year". I've owned these stoves almost 9 years, and I've probably re-flattened the flame shield on the one stove less than a half dozen times, and the second stove maybe only 3 times. You'll notice if it's sagging in the middle when you remove it for spring cleaning, and just bend it back flat by hand, if it looks like it's worth the effort.

OK. Thanks. Seems like since it's a thin enough to bend under heat, especially with all the holes in it, it is something to check now and then. Easy fix anyway.

 

[Ashful]

Yep. It's actually fairly thick, maybe 1/8" or more. But like you said, perf'd panel bends easy.