New to Pellet Stoves

[Chain]

Sounds like you might have the perfect set-up, then. That used Harman Accentra shown in the first craigslist add might be exactly what you need. As a Harman owner myself, albeit a P61A, I can tell you that you can't go wrong with a Harman. I would recommend you oversize your stove slightly if possible so as to be able to keep up on a really cold day or several in a row should you need to. My brother in law lives in Boxboro, Mass. and I know he can get cold weather in his part of Mass. Never hurts to have more capacity than necessary as you can always dial them back but you can't turn them up beyond their capacity. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

 

[MCPO]

good points, all, MCPO, but please realize that the folks who frequent this forum, by and large, DO have a level of expertise that by far and away exceeds that of the average pellet user. Englander's service model works ONLY IF the owner is willing to do the work, otherwise, they have to hire a service tech to do it, at their own peril (we all pretty much agree that each and every service tech in the industry is a mix of Chunk from Goonies and Snidely Whiplash, with a smidge of Maleficent rolled in), and don't get me started on the retailers themselves! Its really kinda an apples and oranges comparison, since MOST (but not all) Englander retailers are given a Mulligan in the stove knowledge area by the consumer, because they simply don't expect much knowledge from them, let alone service of any kind.

All that being said, for a guy who is willing to twist his or her own wrenches, a good stove brand. Just don't expect much from the retailer.

No arguments from me with any of the above.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Thanks for the input Mike. We are going with AMFM, just undecided on which model. The EP looks nice but do we really need the on/off thermostat and ash pan? During the winter it would likely be fired up 24/7 anyways.

With under 1000 sq ft wouldn't they all kind of be overkill?

insulation is the key, if its average or better even the P-10 might cook ya (its "underrated" at 1500sqft) or it may be fine, scratch the P-22 for that space , unless its a shack thats too much stove for the space. running in the lower ranges there isnt much advantage to having the 22 over the 10, only if looking to heat a larger well insulated space where the bigger blower may be a good thing. i heated my 1250sq ft house for 5 years with a P-10 before going to a PAH (nothing wrong with the P-10, i just needed a top feeder to "learn" so i swapped it out refurbished the P-10 and donated it to habitat (where its still running today i did the install and i do annuals on it) anyway, i didnt have to push it at all to cover my house.

bottom line is either stove will do the job (probably easily) what i would look at is how well insulated you are overall and what you are looking to spend versus available features. either way, i still want to know ahead of time what you are going to purchase and tell andy to let me know when you do, the stove will be perfect.

 

[CamperWill]

Thanks, I think we are going to risk it and go with the 55-TRP10, it should do the trick considering we spent spring/summer insulating and fixing any drafts we had. If it doesn't pan out we can always sell it and buy the 55-TRPEP (love the look of it).

Would a stove board work instead of a hearth pad for under the stove? I don't see anything in the manual saying it wouldn't, it just states the area it needs to cover(about 30x38) and that it needs to be non-combustible. We are also considering building our own to match the chimney.

 

[smwilliamson]

Camperwill - Mike has answered your call. How cool is that?! Direct from the factory....FYI Englander is the only factory on the boards.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Camperwill - Mike has answered your call. How cool is that?! Direct from the factory....FYI Englander is the only factory on the boards.

actually "fyrebug" is a factory rep (and a friendly competitor ) and i thought i saw posts that i think were from another rep from another factory (the ones that build the "pleasant hearth' woodstoves) though i do not remember his member name at present.

FWIW i would LOVE to have reps in here from as many of the other factories as possible, they are missing out on not only great feedback but knowledge passed on from "the real world" users such as our members. as always i have to honestly say, "ive learned more than ive taught" in here

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Thanks, I think we are going to risk it and go with the 55-TRP10, it should do the trick considering we spent spring/summer insulating and fixing any drafts we had. If it doesn't pan out we can always sell it and buy the 55-TRPEP (love the look of it).

Would a stove board work instead of a hearth pad for under the stove? I don't see anything in the manual saying it wouldn't, it just states the area it needs to cover(about 30x38) and that it needs to be non-combustible. We are also considering building our own to match the chimney.

there is no 'r factor ' requirement for the P-10. therefore "ember protection" suffices. as long as you meet the dimensions required with your protection you are good to go.

i will go ahead and assume the P-10 is your choice and pull one this weekend and "massage" it. it will be as good a stove as i can make it. (but then i do that with all of them anyway so i know im talkin smack but i really enjoy dialing these things in )

as for the "stat" thing you dont have to worry about "swing" as its not an "on / off unit". wont overwork the igniter at all.

 

[Don2222]

not to blow my own horn, but i do virtually all of the refurbs that AMFM sells personally, and im easy to find should a question or issue arises.

the "customer wrench work" point that was made is entirely correct, we do not offer in home service as part of our warranty, but i do have an excellent staff which can guide you through virtually any issue you may encounter, should a part turn out to be defective i will UPS it to your door instructions included, should you wish you could call my service department when the part arrives and myself or one of my techs will walk you through the replacement.

hearth.com members also have the added perk of being able to pester me (kidding) contact me through the forum as well.

should one prefer a service person, though its not covered i know a guy with a pretty good rep who i believe may be in your area ( my "shameless plug"check the author of post #10)

anyway should you decide to go with an ESW product from AMFM , let me know as i will be the one prepping the stove FWIW looking at your initial post i would go with the EP unit. i would really consider a stat as well though with the space you describe i would shop in the aftermarket for one with an adjustable "swing temp" we have one which has it but its the remote and kinda pricy, the wall mount doesn't have a swing temp adjustment and in the space you have to heat with the stove i'd be afraid it would fast cycle when it gets quite cold (hard on the igniter) the "22" is too much stove IMHO for your space as well and it and the "10" do not have "on-off stat function. anyway, if you do go with andy over at AMFM let me know ahead of time, i'll make sure you have a great stove coming to you

Hey Mike, on the topic of a TStat. I also sold a 25-EPI and my customer wants to know if his NEST T-Stat will work on it? Any thoughts on that? Does the Nest have the swing setting?

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Hey Mike, on the topic of a TStat. I also sold a 25-EPI and my customer wants to know if his NEST T-Stat will work on it? Any thoughts on that? Does the Nest have the swing setting?

'nest" as i understand it is an operating system, the "nest software" simply adjusts the stat, the stove only accepts an 'open/closed" circuit for command from the stat so if the nest is telling the stat to "open' at a certain temp, the stove does not see the difference between the nest saying to do so or a person changing the stat by hand.

short version unless im wrong about how the nest thing works it should function just fine as the stat is what is being talked to not the stove itself.

this is assuming the "nest" stat works electrically like a typical wall stat with an "open off/closed on" millivolt system

 

[Don2222]

'nest" as i understand it is an operating system, the "nest software" simply adjusts the stat, the stove only accepts an 'open/closed" circuit for command from the stat so if the nest is telling the stat to "open' at a certain temp, the stove does not see the difference between the nest saying to do so or a person changing the stat by hand.

short version unless im wrong about how the nest thing works it should function just fine as the stat is what is being talked to not the stove itself.

this is assuming the "nest" stat works electrically like a typical wall stat with an "open off/closed on" millivolt system

Agree, the instructions and brochure I have seen on the nest try to make it simple but it is hard to determine if it has the "Swing Setting" and if it is not a millivolt T-stat then a 24 volt relay might be needed. So I agree, just trying to get the finer details and that is the hard part!

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Agree, the instructions and brochure I have seen on the nest try to make it simple but it is hard to determine if it has the "Swing Setting" and if it is not a millivolt T-stat then a 24 volt relay might be needed. So I agree, just trying to get the finer details and that is the hard part!

i suspect it would have a millivolt function as its a "do all" system, literally all gas is millivolt so its very likely it will have that function, remember to stay "simple stupid" all we are doing is creating and breaking "continuity" open/closed circuit, there is no "voltage". think touching two wires together and separating them from each other to affect the circuit, this is all the stat would do, the "nest" part while complex in a way is simply telling the stat what temp to do this at, if there is a "swing" it would be built into the stat itself, would have to see the spec's or talk to a rep of that company to know the answer to that question.

 

[Don2222]

i suspect it would have a millivolt function as its a "do all" system, literally all gas is millivolt so its very likely it will have that function, remember to stay "simple stupid" all we are doing is creating and breaking "continuity" open/closed circuit, there is no "voltage". think touching two wires together and separating them from each other to affect the circuit, this is all the stat would do, the "nest" part while complex in a way is simply telling the stat what temp to do this at, if there is a "swing" it would be built into the stat itself, would have to see the spec's or talk to a rep of that company to know the answer to that question.

Hi Mike

I just called Nest support.
Tech stated it is not a millivolt T-Stat, it is 24 volts and even though it can be connected for open/close close circuit for a pellet stove, it is not recommended for pellet stoves due to no swing setting. Thanks
Many of the new wifi T-Stats are 24 volts so we must wait for a good wifi stat for pellet stoves. If Lux makes one I think it will be good.

 

[Don2222]

Hey Guys

Just did alot more research on Wifi T-Stats and the Nest T-Stat will work fine on the older Whitfield pellet stove which is 24 volts and Hi/Lo only. However the WiFi T-Stat we found that works well for all pellet stoves, is the Ecobee Smart Thermostat. Just wanted to find a good solution if anyone needs one!

Ecobee EB-STAT-02 Smart Thermostat 4 Heat-2 Cool with Full Color Touch Screen

See hookup and settings explained here.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wifi-t-stat-for-pellet-stoves.111408/

 

[CamperWill]

Would anyone happen to know the wattage and amperage required to operate the 55-TRP10/25PDVC on 120v?

 

[Don2222]

Hello

The Ignitor is 300 watts and the auger and motors are not that much so I would say around 400 to 500 watts during the start cycle then it settles right down.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Would anyone happen to know the wattage and amperage required to operate the 55-TRP10/25PDVC on 120v?

startup is 660 watts , then after the igniter shuts off (13 minutes from pressing "on") the stove should average approximately 360 watts (bear in mind the cycle of the top auger plays in the "average" ) this will be at <5A

 

[CamperWill]

Well the stove was just delivered! What a pain it was to carry it up a flight of stairs...

 

[Chain]

Well the stove was just delivered! What a pain it was to carry it up a flight of stairs...

View attachment 107786

Well worth it given oil is headed higher by the day....Which means propane isn't far behind. Be sure and post some photos after the install. Good luck and congrats. on the purchase.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

PDVC nickel trim looks to be a new unit. did ya get it through AMFM?

by the way the PDVC is "high/low" so with a stat the swing temp problem is non-existent

 

[CamperWill]

Yeah, purchased it from AMFM on 7/30, got it much quicker then expected!

 

[smwilliamson]

Don't know if holly got in touch with you yet give us ring Monday or all call you to get that thing connected.

 

[CamperWill]

Well Scott just finished the install of our 25-PDVC and it looks amazing, he went above and beyond what was required.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

looks great! love the pic with the dog. scott did a great job with the install very clean, love the tee at the top, mine at home is set up that way, far easier to clean into the flue with that setup.

 

[smwilliamson]

That was absolutely exhausting. Very proud of it. First time I have ever punched through into the flue for an ash trap clean out OAK run. Ran a t off at a 45 then up the back for a true center line stack up the back. Notice how tight to the back the venting is using duravent...my secret how I get it that close for a true wood stove-like feel. All venting in 4" painted black makes it!

Of course it didn't start up right away. Had to pull the igniter plug and crank down the burn pot bolts...then she fired!

This is a very tricky install cause it has all of the difficult elements, full liner kit, masonry adapter, full lower venting set up and an OAK through 3 walls of brick and one wood frame. Took 5 hours labor and two trips out for venting parts and tools.

 

[smwilliamson]