Because you were making fun of those of us who point out clearance issues.Now why the hell would you think that I would condone clearance issues that could be dangerous to people. Thats why I posted that, so someone could critique it. It looked close to me, but Im not the expert here.
Yeah they would dry out real fast before they burst into flames.can you put splits in that little cubby hole on top to help dry them? Pretty cool stove
can you put splits in that little cubby hole on top to help dry them? Pretty cool stove
Because you were making fun of those of us who point out clearance issues.
Yep, it's a few sizes down from the VC but it will take a 20" split, I think.Wow that's quite a change in capacity, I am surprised the wood cut for the Defiant would fit.
And it has gasketed seams, so should be easy to completely tear down and rebuild, I'd think.soap stone! We considered it, but we prefer the cast iron.
Yeah, and you can dry wood up there! No, don't do that!i am guessing that the exhaust gases pass up the sides and then into the flue pipe there by draining some more radiant heat out of the system?
Yep, it'll be interesting to hear how it heats overnight, with the small box. You may be fine upstairs in the bedroom, with the heat rising up there.Keep us posted on how it works for you, burn times, wood consumption etc... aaand pics! We love pics!
Secondaries look strong. What stove top temp is that yielding?The viewing window may be small, but it does offer a great view!
Secondaries look strong. What stove top temp is that yielding?
Do not use the ashpan that way you will destroy your new stove. Stick the stove pipe thermometer next to the pipe thermometer to see if they match.That went to 600 cook top (in between the ducts), but flue temp was still only 200 8" above the top plate. Im a little confused by this. North Winds Stove included a Condar stop top thermometer, and we already had the 1975 Condar that was on the old stove flue when we moved in. Is the thermometer off? I'm not quite sure how this stove wants to run yet as I've only loaded it with two splits at a time for now.
I do know the small firebox will not yield an overnight burn. We knew it would require an overnight refill, but that's ok with us. The wife has a small bladder, and I'm medically retired army, it's no big deal for us.
Earlier when the first few splits burned down, but before I reloaded the stove, I rattled the grate with the rod coming out the front. I of course did this when installing of course. So far, so good. Also, I discovered that if the draft is tough to get going, close the door, and crack the ash pan door. That makes it almost a direct draft stove and it will make the embers ignite whatever is above the hole for the grate. I think this system will work very well.
So far, the stove has been easy. I put a kettle on the burner to help with the noxious fumes of the stove paint curing. We also have a door cracked with a vent fan going along with a lot of incense!
No it’s not unbelievable actually, I had the same feeling as bholler. Of course using the term “clearance police” was offensive. Let’s stop the pretending here.Unbelievable, you could come up with something like that.
That may well be true, if the upper section grabs a lot of heat off the exhaust before it gets to the pipe.That went to 600 cook top (in between the ducts), but flue temp was still only 200 8" above the top plate. Im a little confused by this....I discovered that if the draft is tough to get going, close the door, and crack the ash pan door.
Do not use the ashpan that way you will destroy your new stove. Stick the stove pipe thermometer next to the pipe thermometer to see if they match.
Yes but it is probably not operable. many morosos are dual fuel in Europe so they need the bottom intake for coal. But if it is operable I'd say use it.Hey, wait a minute, is that an air vent on the ash pan door??
Yeah they would dry out real fast before they burst into flames.
Like i said they extract allot of heat the stove is going to be really hot to keep the flue temps up. That is why many stoves similar to this make so much creosote.I'm up to a 3/4 load now. Probably only burned eight small splits since 4 pm. It's 10 outside and 70 in here not running it very hard, maybe at half of what it is capable of. I'm trying to keep it around 300 on the flue and that's keeping it comfortable in here.
Now, I'm a little concerned about how hot the cook plate is at 300 f flue temp. How hot is too hot? The Condar flue thermometer that was here when we moved in reads identical to the brand new stove top Condar. The stove top is reading over 1000, but flue is 300. The manual says 300-450 is normal operating range, but it just seems weird to me.
Like i said they extract allot of heat the stove is going to be really hot to keep the flue temps up. That is why many stoves similar to this make so much creosote.
The secondaries burn off allot but if your flue gasses drop below 212 before exiting the chimney before the final stage of combustion you will get creosote buildup.I just wanted to be sure this was a safe mode of operation. Wouldn't the secondaries also burn off the majority of creosote without keeping the flue as hot?
You can shut it back a bit. What type and size of chimney is this running into
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