New stove burn temps. 13nc

[Smokepole]

I installed my new 13nc this week, did the first burn in my house today.
After getting a good burn going and for the next three hours I noticed
the temp. on top of the stove at the flue collar stayed about 200 degrees
hotter than the flue pipe 12 in. above the top .
I kept the flue at between 400 and 450. The top stayed around 600 and 675.
Does anyone know if this is normal for this stove?
My old fisher papa bear the top stayed around 100 degrees hotter than the top.
Also this was with dried red oak.
Thank you for any information.

 

[begreen]

Stove top temp sounds good. Were the stovepipe temps measured with a surface thermometer on single-wall pipe or with a probe thermometer on double-wall?

 

[blades]

Well that is a little warm but not that much. My NC30 with a full load of oak (15% moisture ) will rip 700 + if you do not close down the control. It will then settle in at around 600 or so for awhile. Lot depend on the amount of off gassing and how soon you turn down the air. Might want to turn it down a bit sooner on mine 400-500 is a great cruising temp for 8-10 hour + burns- yours being about 1/2 the size of the 30 equates to about 4-6+ hours. Note there still plenty of coals at that point and the stove would still be giving off heat just not at that intense level. turning the stove down to about where there is just a bit of active flames with secondaries cranking is about right - but of course every install has it own likes and dislikes. My flue is about 28ft from the top of the stove a shorter/ longer flue will change the parameters. Mine is also an 6" insulated flue not one using a brick and mortar assembly.

 

[Smokepole]

Stove top temp sounds good. Were the stovepipe temps measured with a surface thermometer on single-wall pipe or with a probe thermometer on double-wall?

Thanks begreen. The temps. were measured with a surface thermometer on single wall.

 

[Smokepole]

Well that is a little warm but not that much. My NC30 with a full load of oak (15% moisture ) will rip 700 + if you do not close down the control. It will then settle in at around 600 or so for awhile. Lot depend on the amount of off gassing and how soon you turn down the air. Might want to turn it down a bit sooner on mine 400-500 is a great cruising temp for 8-10 hour + burns- yours being about 1/2 the size of the 30 equates to about 4-6+ hours. Note there still plenty of coals at that point and the stove would still be giving off heat just not at that intense level. turning the stove down to about where there is just a bit of active flames with secondaries cranking is about right - but of course every install has it own likes and dislikes. My flue is about 28ft from the top of the stove a shorter/ longer flue will change the parameters. Mine is also an 6" insulated flue not one using a brick and mortar assembly.

blades, thanks for your reply. my flue is a insulated 6" in side a brick chimney.
It is 20 ft. long into a tee with a snout coming tru the thimble into my great room.

 

[Smokepole]

blades, thanks for your reply. my flue is a insulated 6" in side a brick chimney.
It is 20 ft. long into a tee with a snout coming tru the thimble into my great room.

With your top at 500 what is your flue temp?
I try to keep mine above 300.

 

[begreen]

4-500º for surface flue temps is too hot, except on startup. With the stove cruising the stove pipe surface temp should be more like 250-300º. The surface temp is about 1.5 to 2x the internal flue gas temp.

 

[blades]

4:30 am, NC30 chugging along this morning full secondaries on ash and a bit of what ever 80 % closed on air control, cruising 650F at step in stove top, collar ( note this a double wall black durvent pipe) is around 250-300f did not shoot the ceiling box my norm there is about 200+ or so. reload on a few coals left from yesterday no reload last night. About now (8:45 am ) outside temps mid 30'sI would guess the stove is running at about 400+F, it was 79 F in the house when I left this morning ( 6am), last evening when I got home it was apx 76 inside . The Ash is standing dead likely in the 20-25% moisture class plus being rained on for a week ( dryer than anything else I have do to the weather) and I have some 10-12 cord css out back ( most is 3 years + old). Weekend project is to bring at least a cord into basement and set up fan and 2 dehumidifiers ( running those 2 will cost about $25 mo.) I rotate about 3 days worth up to the stove area which helps a bit on reducing moisture content at least on the surface areas.

 

[Smokepole]

4-500º for surface flue temps is too hot, except on startup. With the stove cruising the stove pipe surface temp should be more like 250-300º. The surface temp is about 1.5 to 2x the internal flue gas temp.

Thanks begreen, I try to keep the temp. up a little because i have 2 -45s and
about three ft. of pipe before i get to my tee going to the insulated liner.
Then the liner is another 20 ft. I went on the roof today during a good burn and the flue temp. was around 130.
I don't know if that is good or bad.
Thanks for your help.

 

[Smokepole]

Thanks begreen, I try to keep the temp. up a little because i have 2 -45s and
about three ft. of pipe before i get to my tee going to the insulated liner.
Then the liner is another 20 ft. I went on the roof today during a good burn and the flue temp. was around 130.
I don't know if that is good or bad.
Thanks for your help.

I for got to mention that temp. was measured on the inside wall of the liner.

 

[Smokepole]

4:30 am, NC30 chugging along this morning full secondaries on ash and a bit of what ever 80 % closed on air control, cruising 650F at step in stove top, collar ( note this a double wall black durvent pipe) is around 250-300f did not shoot the ceiling box my norm there is about 200+ or so. reload on a few coals left from yesterday no reload last night. About now (8:45 am ) outside temps mid 30'sI would guess the stove is running at about 400+F, it was 79 F in the house when I left this morning ( 6am), last evening when I got home it was apx 76 inside . The Ash is standing dead likely in the 20-25% moisture class plus being rained on for a week ( dryer than anything else I have do to the weather) and I have some 10-12 cord css out back ( most is 3 years + old). Weekend project is to bring at least a cord into basement and set up fan and 2 dehumidifiers ( running those 2 will cost about $25 mo.) I rotate about 3 days worth up to the stove area which helps a bit on reducing moisture content at least on the surface areas.

Sounds good I have quite a learning curve this year.
I am going from a 40 year old fisher to this epa thing.

 

[begreen]

Thanks begreen, I try to keep the temp. up a little because i have 2 -45s and
about three ft. of pipe before i get to my tee going to the insulated liner.
Then the liner is another 20 ft. I went on the roof today during a good burn and the flue temp. was around 130.
I don't know if that is good or bad.
Thanks for your help.

Not sure if that will be an accurate reading or not. At what stage was the fire when this reading was taken?

 

[Smokepole]

Not sure if that will be an accurate reading or not. At what stage was the fire when this reading was taken?

The fire had been burning about 2 hours. The stove top was around 500 the flu around 400.
Thanks.

 

[Smokepole]

Please be patient with me. I am 66 just learning to type, my left hand is screwed
up so I use right index finger for all my typing. The last thread I posted, in the middle
of a answer my internet crashed. I'll try to do my best. Thank you for all the info.
on this site.
My question is about my new stove. I am still doing burn offs. Yesterday I opened the
windows and lit the stove I'm trying to learn the top down method . I got it going pretty good
and started adding small splits of red oak . It has been split and stacked for two years. The moisture
content is between 15% and 13%.
After my stove top temp. was around 500 deg. and my stack around 350. I had some
coals and what was left of the wood burning good. I added 4 more small splits let them get going
good closed the air down until flames got lazy, added some air until it brightened up some.
My back set of secondaries cut in and looked good. Part of my middle set were also burning.
Now my question. When I cut my air back and the secondaries come on my stove top went
to 600 BUT my flue temp. started dropping pretty fast. Is this normal? If my flue temps. get
below 300 I worry about creosote. From 18 in. above my stove I still have two 45s and a 1ft.
horizontal run to my tee snout. I like to keep my horizontal piece where it goes into my tee
snout above 250. To do this I had to open my air more, got my flue temps. back up . Of course
the temp. on my top started rising too it went above 600 pretty fast I don't want to over fire this little stove.

Thank you for any information.

 

[Highbeam]

I regularly run this stoves brother, the nc30, well into the mid 700s. At just 600 you are only starting to warm this thing up and are well within safe design limits.

Can we assume this is single wall pipe and you are giving us surface temperature measurementsfrom a magnetic surface meter? Good idea to keep it above 300 with the masonry involved.

oh and remember to give it 10 minutes or so after an adjustment before temperatures can stabilize.

 

[begreen]

Threads merged to avoid repeating comments.

 

[Smokepole]

I regularly run this stoves brother, the nc30, well into the mid 700s. At just 600 you are only starting to warm this thing up and are well within safe design limits.

Can we assume this is single wall pipe and you are giving us surface temperature measurementsfrom a magnetic surface meter? Good idea to keep it above 300 with the masonry involved.

oh and remember to give it 10 minutes or so after an adjustment before temperatures can stabilize.

Thanks Highbeam
Yes it is single wall pipe with a magnetic surface meter. I will give it the 10 min. tomorrow,
Planning on doing another burn off.
.
Thank you

 

[Zack R]

Very useful/entertaining add on to the wood burning experience:

Amazon product ASIN B00DMI62HM

 

[Smokepole]

I did my fifth burn off on this little stove today. I got the stove top
up to 600 + and burned it for three hours like the other 4 times.
After about 45 min. the smell started, getting worse each min.
I once again opened the windows and turned on the window exhaust fan.
I am going to do another burn tomorrow, can't seem to get this paint cured.

 

[begreen]

Was any sort of compound or sealant put on any of the stove pipe joints, flue collar or stove pipe thimble?

What does the fire look like when the stove is at 600º? Good secondary burn at the top of the firebox? What was the stove pipe temp at the stove top temperature?

 

[Smokepole]

Was any sort of compound or sealant put on any of the stove pipe joints, flue collar or stove pipe thimble?

What does the fire look like when the stove is at 600º? Good secondary burn at the top of the firebox? What was the stove pipe temp at the stove top temperature?

begreen, Hello I put a little cement on a few joints , but not a lot.
When the stove is at 600 flames are active and have some secondary burns.
Stove pipe temp. around 350.
Also I put cement around the thimble and some around the collar. It is rutland brand
furnace cement.
Thanks

 

[Zack R]

Each time you have a hotter fire than before it cures the paint a bit more (at least it seems this way to me). As outside temps drop relative to the indoor temp you'll get a stronger draft which in turn allows you to turn the primary air down more and pull more from the secondaries, resulting in more heat and hence more paint curing.

I'm a few dozen fires in on my new F55 and F45, depending on how hard I push them I get a bit of smell. Its less and less each time. If you have some really dry wood build up a nice hot fire, let it burn down to coals, add more wood and really get it up to temp to cure the paint. Also run with the air control wide open for a while to heat up the stovepipe. An IR thermometer is a great tool to spot check and track temps as you go.

 

[Smokepole]

Each time you have a hotter fire than before it cures the paint a bit more (at least it seems this way to me). As outside temps drop relative to the indoor temp you'll get a stronger draft which in turn allows you to turn the primary air down more and pull more from the secondaries, resulting in more heat and hence more paint curing.

I'm a few dozen fires in on my new F55 and F45, depending on how hard I push them I get a bit of smell. Its less and less each time. If you have some really dry wood build up a nice hot fire, let it burn down to coals, add more wood and really get it up to temp to cure the paint. Also run with the air control wide open for a while to heat up the stovepipe. An IR thermometer is a great tool to spot check and track temps as you go.

Thanks Zack
That is pretty much what I have been doing.
The odor does not seem to change much. I do use an IR gun .

 

[Smokepole]

Each time you have a hotter fire than before it cures the paint a bit more (at least it seems this way to me). As outside temps drop relative to the indoor temp you'll get a stronger draft which in turn allows you to turn the primary air down more and pull more from the secondaries, resulting in more heat and hence more paint curing.

I'm a few dozen fires in on my new F55 and F45, depending on how hard I push them I get a bit of smell. Its less and less each time. If you have some really dry wood build up a nice hot fire, let it burn down to coals, add more wood and really get it up to temp to cure the paint. Also run with the air control wide open for a while to heat up the stovepipe. An IR thermometer is a great tool to spot check and track temps as you go.

In my old Fisher I would get the stove temps. up to 600 and leave it
for a while. This stove won't let me do that.

 

[Smokepole]

In my old Fisher I would get the stove temps. up to 600 and leave it
for a while. This stove won't let me do that.

I meant to say stove pipe temps.