New roofing question, comments, discussion about anything thread.

[precaud]

Thought I'd give an update on my homebrewed wrinkle/blister repair technique from back in 2007. After three years it's totally fine, no signs of new blistering/wrinkling and the repaired areas have been stable. The white acrylic coating really helps keep the roof temps down and that makes a big difference because heat played a big role in making it slip in the first place. Also the asphalt emulsion with knit polyester scrim is proving so far to be a good method for mod bit repair, as long as it's coated. I'm going to use it again on a porch roof which is leaking.

OK, I'll bite. Big roof on the garage/storage building, SBS Brai torchdown, New Mexico climate. Major blisters/wrinkles have developed in areas. I'm cutting them, removing the buckled asphalt layers underneath making it smooth, then cementing it back down. Then I'll coat the whole thing with Henry 107 asphalt emulsion and then white acrylic.

The quiestion is about the cementing down. When I started, I was 3 coursing using roofing cement (Henry 505). But that stuff has to age 30 days or more before it can be coated. So I tried using the 107 emulsion with polyester mesh. It's dry and ready to coat in less than 2 days. So far I'm impressed.

Whadya think?

...If it works for you, it works for me.

When I was "out west" (Colorado) I had seen my fair share of roofing work. Probably "old school" with some of the new stuff today but I did quite a bit of work on Tremco White Hypalon. Somewhat pricey and it can be a PITA but it worked quite well.

Given the amount of sun and heat roofs in your locale get coupled with large swings in temperature during the year....I think asphalt roofing products will go only so far.... Good Luck!

 

[yesdear]

Hi, have a small leak in the back room by the window, and thinking it's due to the poor shape of the tar roof there. Looking for the most economical quick fix, any suggestions appreciated. Also wondering why there's gravel only on one portion of the roof.

Thanks.

 

[Hogwildz]

Hi, have a small leak in the back room by the window, and thinking it's due to the poor shape of the tar roof there. Looking for the most economical quick fix, any suggestions appreciated. Also wondering why there's gravel only on one portion of the roof.

Thanks.

I am guessing your leak is near the eave of the roof. It looks like the edge metal was installed after the main roof was set. You need to clean off(sweep very well) the edge, and re-muck with asphalt roof cement & tape. The tape is a roll of asphalt impregnated mesh. Get yourself a 5 gallon can of black asphalt rood cement, and a roll of tape(usually comes in 100' rolls). Trowel a thin layer of roof cement about 6" wide along the entire length of the roof edge(over top of the edge metal). About 1/4" 3/8" thick, thicker is ok, but not too thick.

Cut a length of fabric tape the length of the roof edge, starting at one end, set the tape on the cement you applied, press the tape into the cement with a trowel, glide the trowel over the tape pressing it into the cement. I usually set the tape about 1/2" away from the edge of the edge metal that sits over the gutter side, this gives room for the cement to bond and keep the tape buried, and lessens chances of the tape peeling up, as it can do when run all the way top the edge of the edge metal. The cement should oozee out both sides of the tape some, work the tape in the entire length. If you're not getting ooze from under both sides of the tape, you didn't put enough cement down on the first run of cement. You can let the ooze start to cover the edge of the tape to help hold it in place. Until you get a few feet, the tape might start to slide while your troweling it into the cement, just keep an eye on it, and make sure it doesn't slide.

Once you have the tape set in, then go back and spread another layer of roof cement over the tape. Again 1/4" to 3/8" or so. You want to trowel the second layer of cement smooth and fairly flat, and it should cover the tape completely. You don't want any tape showing.
Try to avoid going too thick with the roof cement, too thick does not help, and in this case more is not better. . Plus at the gutter edge, you don't want to crate a huge dam for the water to pond at.

The gravel is called slag. That was used to protect the roof from the elements, sun, UV etc. It is old school, and rarely used any more if at all these days.

Your lower roof looks like it is in dire need to be coated. That photos of the corner looks like either the prior coating is peeling up, or the roof felts are showing and coming up. Also, the back of the roof where is meets the small wall to the upper slag roof, appears that the flashings there are in bad shape. I can see in then photos, that the flashing has fish mouths in it, and looks like it is coming loose. If it is not too bad, you can trowel some roof cement into the fish mouths, press the flap back down, and tape & cover as you are going to do with the edge metal described above.
If the flashing is too far gone, it will need to be replaced or gone over with new flashing, either with hot tar roofing, or modified bitumen.

Once that upper slag roof start leaking, they are a bioch to repair but it is doable, not fun, but doable.

Once all the repairs are done, wait about 60-90 days, and recoat the entire roof surface with alumacoat. Which is an aluminum based silver roof coating. It helps reflect sun & UV, and will extend the life of the roof. Coating is for the lower roof, the slag is not coatable.

 

[Hogwildz]

Here is the product you're looking for. You can prolly get it cheaper at a local roofing supply house.
Get either 4" or 6" fabric tape. I'd go 6" for better coverage and to make sure you cover the old stuff. Just apply the much wider than the tape by a couple inches.
Here are ideas of what you need. These are products I used in the industry, you can use any brand you want, just don't cheap out, as you get what you pay for. The coating is up to you, but if you want to maintain & prolong you roof life, you may want to consider it. You'll also need a trowel, and a pair of long armed gloves. Muck will end up on you, so wear old clothes. And GOJO or gas to clean the muck off you skin.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Karnak-5-Gal-Asphalt-Flashing-Cement-19-5/100311255
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Karnak-6-in-x-150-ft-Asphalt-Cotton-Membrane-55-06/100235292
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Karnak-5-Gal-Fibered-Aluminum-Coating-97-5AF/100292260
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Marshall...ndle-GTP7-HD/202091770?keyword=roofing+trowel

 

[BrotherBart]

A nine year old thread still alive. A new record.

 

[Hogwildz]

I merely answered a recent question. ;-)
9 yr 14w

 

[lml999]

I'll bite...

How do I remove mold/moss from my residential roof?

...and a related question. Our attic floor is insulated, and humidity has gotten to a 5x8 section of the plywood underlayment. There's some evidence of mold on the underside of the roof, nothing too bad.

What's the best way to get rid of the mold? Spray bleach on it? Full strength? Diluted?

Thanks!

 

[Hogwildz]

Full strength, or purchase a mold remediation product. You will want to find the cause. Is the underlayment you're speaking of the actual roof decking, or plywood over the attic insulation on the attic floor? Does the roof system have ventilation installed? Soffit vents & ridge vent? You should not be getting mold up there with proper ventilation.

 

[yesdear]

Here is the product you're looking for. You can prolly get it cheaper at a local roofing supply house.
Get either 4" or 6" fabric tape. I'd go 6" for better coverage and to make sure you cover the old stuff. Just apply the much wider than the tape by a couple inches.
Here are ideas of what you need. These are products I used in the industry, you can use any brand you want, just don't cheap out, as you get what you pay for. The coating is up to you, but if you want to maintain & prolong you roof life, you may want to consider it. You'll also need a trowel, and a pair of long armed gloves. Muck will end up on you, so wear old clothes. And GOJO or gas to clean the muck off you skin.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Karnak-5-Gal-Asphalt-Flashing-Cement-19-5/100311255
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Karnak-6-in-x-150-ft-Asphalt-Cotton-Membrane-55-06/100235292
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Karnak-5-Gal-Fibered-Aluminum-Coating-97-5AF/100292260
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Marshall...ndle-GTP7-HD/202091770?keyword=roofing+trowel

Thanks so much. As soon as the roof dries up and there no rain in the forecast, I'll get to it.

 

[Hogwildz]

No problemo. Not sure where you are in Cali, but I'll be in Santa Monica on 2/10, then heading to Cabo the following day.
If you run into trouble, let me know, if your close to there, I can stop by and give a hand on the 10th. But only the 10th. If you have any other questions, just ask. Good luck.

 

[semipro]

Killing mold requires the right combination of chemical and exposure time. Even with a strong mold killing solution the treated surface needs to stay wet for a certain amount of time to ensure proper treatment. So if the air is dry you may need to reapply the solution to maintain a wet surface.

 

[yesdear]

What an offer. If only I wasn't 400 miles north of santa monica. Enjoy the trip. I'll keep in touch.

 

[firefighterjake]

And the crazy thing is . . . knowing what I have read about Hog over the years . . . he would follow through on that offer if you had asked . . . he truly is a class act in terms of helping out other folks.

 

[Hogwildz]

And the crazy thing is . . . knowing what I have read about Hog over the years . . . he would follow through on that offer if you had asked . . . he truly is a class act in terms of helping out other folks.

That's what it is all about. Pay it forward, or F off!

 

[osagebow]

About to show our maintenance guys this. they keep re-patching a leaking spot on the school library. Evidently, roofing is over their heads. On the plus side, killdeer love nesting in the "slag" rocks.

 

[Hogwildz]

About to show our maintenance guys this. they keep re-patching a leaking spot on the school library. Evidently, roofing is over their heads. On the plus side, killdeer love nesting in the "slag" rocks. View attachment 192602

That don't look like slag, might be a ballast rubber roof, they really suck to repair.

 

[sfsurfdude69]

I just bought a house in Spokane, Wa. I started my roofing project late in the year (December) and of course like clockwork it started being snow season and hasnt stopped since. Before the snow I was able to get the "self Stick" HT Underlayment on the entire roof. Alot of it due to the cold I used a weed propane burner to heat up the underlayment to get it to stick, and it was marginal? I got used to it more as I proceeded...
Im going with a metal roof from Metal Sales the classic rib series. I managed to get three panels on and the remainder is underlayment exposed until the snow is over. I tried to get up there but when its wet its really slippery. I cant be bothered towel drying everywhere Im walking each day.
The inspector said why did you put ice and dam barrier over the entire roof? I said I wanted a waterproof roof period. In a couple months I will continue. There were gutters up before but I put some on but during the winter the frozen water just freezes and fills the gutters. My goal is to keep as much moisture away from the foundation but all the freezing and snow makes that hard. Im not familiar with snow as I just moved here from California, in fact I never had been in zero degrees until last week.
The roof tear off went like this... Three layers of old roofing and 900. dumpster fees. Never have done roofing till this job, I realize it takes longer for me to do it being unfamiliar with roofing but so far so good no leaks to my house during the process.
During the down time on the roof Im rewiring my house upgrading to 200 amp service. I hated the two prong plug senerio its a hassle.

 

[Hogwildz]

The underlayment will be fine, as long as you don't let it exposed for very long periods of time. You should be fine till the weather gets nice again. Is there a ventilation system? Soffit vents at the eaves and ridge vent at the peak? You will need to make a ridge vent system out of the metal when finishing.The roofing supplier may even have the ridge venting cap parts as made by the roofing manufacturer. 3 layers of old roof was 1 layer illegal. 2 is typically the most allowed.
If you are using the roofing you just screw through with screws that have neoprene washers under the heads, you may want to consider a true standing seam snap lock metal roof. They are more expensive, but last longer, and no exposed fasteners to replace when the neoprene washers rot out. A lot easier to install also, and most come with a 50yr paint warranty, usually Kynar paint or similar.
For the gutters, you can get heat wiring made for gutters. It works very well.
Get used to the cold & snow, you're going to be seeing much, much more of it now.
I'll be moving to the Methow Valley in several months, love it there.

 

[osagebow]

That don't look like slag, might be a ballast rubber roof, they really suck to repair.

Yeah there is rubber under there. I was thinking maybe sometimes slag, sometimes pebbles were used on the type you were describing, especially in PA, and "Slag" would be a catchall term for both.

 

[Hogwildz]

Yeah there is rubber under there. I was thinking maybe sometimes slag, sometimes pebbles were used on the type you were describing, especially in PA, and "Slag" would be a catchall term for both.

Ballast is typically screened and cleaned river rock., slag is more like volcanic rock, and much smaller. Looks like the river rock on that roof is old and deteriorating, hence the small pcs. Slag truly sucks, especially if the roof has pitch in the tar. Eats skin, leaving you with a non-sun, sun burn. Actually it causes chemical burns, terrible stuff.

 

[sfsurfdude69]

The underlayment will be fine, as long as you don't let it exposed for very long periods of time. You should be fine till the weather gets nice again. Is there a ventilation system? Soffit vents at the eaves and ridge vent at the peak? You will need to make a ridge vent system out of the metal when finishing.The roofing supplier may even have the ridge venting cap parts as made by the roofing manufacturer. 3 layers of old roof was 1 layer illegal. 2 is typically the most allowed.
If you are using the roofing you just screw through with screws that have neoprene washers under the heads, you may want to consider a true standing seam snap lock metal roof. They are more expensive, but last longer, and no exposed fasteners to replace when the neoprene washers rot out. A lot easier to install also, and most come with a 50yr paint warranty, usually Kynar paint or similar.
For the gutters, you can get heat wiring made for gutters. It works very well.
Get used to the cold & snow, you're going to be seeing much, much more of it now.
I'll be moving to the Methow Valley in several months, love it there.

Funny about getting use to the chill in the air, I cant see that happening...


There is a ventilation system. The soffits vent are on the very small overhang I have and I presently have 2 vents 12 x 14 on each end of the gable. I was researching the ventilation "theory" online, someone stated that having the gable end vents and ridge venting would cancel out the ventilation path. I dont already have ridge venting in place but plan on it. Im wondering if I should eliminate the gable end venting at that point if the theory of cancellation by having both in place is true. I also plan on insulating my attic space with about 2 feet of cellulose insulation once my elec wiring inspections are completed. One concern I do have however is I found out I have vermiculite insulation in my attic, it is said to have asbestos in it and is obviously harmful with contact. I already have had contact with it doing wiring up there. Im assuming I can cover it with the other insulation and not bother it further once the elec is done. Some people say to remove it others just say leave it undisturbed. I am sealing all ceiling boxes to prevent any from coming in the house as a precaution. But I am interested on any thoughts of the cancellation theory of the venting...

 

[Hogwildz]

Install the ridge vent, and get rid of the gable end vents, they are only good for direct cross breezes, and don't do the job a soffit & ridge vent system will do. Yes, they can cause disturbance in the flow of a soffit to ridge system. Plus, rain and snow can blow in them, just junk them and close up the openings. Make sure you have plenty of soffit ventilation. Continuous is best for the soffit area.
As far as the insulation, up to you, not sure what I would do. Prolly bag it and get rid of it, replace with blown in cellulose. How thick is the old stuff up there?

 

[sfsurfdude69]

Install the ridge vent, and get rid of the gable end vents, they are only good for direct cross breezes, and don't do the job a soffit & ridge vent system will do. Yes, they can cause disturbance in the flow of a soffit to ridge system. Plus, rain and snow can blow in them, just junk them and close up the openings. Make sure you have plenty of soffit ventilation. Continuous is best for the soffit area.
As far as the insulation, up to you, not sure what I would do. Prolly bag it and get rid of it, replace with blown in cellulose. How thick is the old stuff up there?

The vermiculite is maybe a couple inches with some other insulation on top of it making up about 4 inches total. Bagging it isnt an option it has to be removed professionally according to the experts otherwise leaving it undisturbed is the second option.