New PE S27 runs hot

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BWS001

New Member
Feb 3, 2023
3
Canso,NS Canada
We had a PE S27 installed in September. I used to own a spectrum so I’m somewhat familiar with the stove. The new stove is EPA certified blah blah blah.

But it runs really hot. I really loaded it up for the first time since it’s supposed to get cold. An hour in the stove was like 850 on the top with my infrared. The spring thermometer was saying about the same.

I ended up taking a log out of the fire and dousing it out back. It’s under 800 now. Still a little hot for my liking.

I looks like it’s still getting a little boost air. The coals near the front are cherry red.

I’ve read in couple old posts there are couple holes you could close down. Anybody know if they are on the new stoves? And where exactly are they.

Not knowing how big the holes are can I stuff them with rock wool or do they need welding ?

Are there other things I can do?

Did the dollar bill test on the gasket. ( the think is new) I wasn’t expecting issues. And didn’t find any.

thanks in advance.

Thanks.
 
How tall is your chimney? The Super is an easy breathing stove! Are you having the cold snap we are down south of you? The chimney will be drafting hard tonight.

Just inside the door on the bottom is a curved piece of cast iron with holes in it. Lift this piece off and you will see the round hole. You can stuff it with rock wool.
 
Just inside the door on the bottom is a curved piece of cast iron with holes in it. Lift this piece off and you will see the round hole. You can stuff it with rock wool.
This is better done underneath the stove at the intake instead of the output. Underneath, just behind the ashlip and centered, there is a small hole which is the intake. Put a strong magnet or some metal tape over it and see if that helps.
 
How tall is your chimney? The Super is an easy breathing stove! Are you having the cold snap we are down south of you? The chimney will be drafting hard tonight.

Just inside the door on the bottom is a curved piece of cast iron with holes in it. Lift this piece off and you will see the round hole. You can stuff it with rock wool.
To answer your questions.
3 feet of 6” dbl wall. Into Masonry (brick w/ clay liner 8x12) floor to cap it’s about 30’.

Burning mostly hardwoods maple, birch think there is some tamarack in the mix

Cold snap oh yeah coldest night in a long time. Currently -9f feeling like -40.

It always runs hot. I will take at the boost manifold once the stove can be a little cooler.

Thanks.
 
This is better done underneath the stove at the intake instead of the output. Underneath, just behind the ashlip and centered, there is a small hole which is the intake. Put a strong magnet or some metal tape over it and see if that helps.
I have an ash drawer so inside above the drawer or on the front? Won’t a magnet loose it’s magnetic properties over time? And how small are we talking. 1/8” 1/16”

Again thanks.
 
Thats a tall flue. I think you'll need a key damper or start cutting the air down faster. You also have a lot of volume in there. That often causes an issue, but doesn't seem to be doing so here. You must be sending a lot of extra heat up it to keep it warm. Do you know the temperature of the gasses after they leave the stove. A probe might be helpful in your double wall. Do you have creosote issues?
 
I have an ash drawer so inside above the drawer or on the front? Won’t a magnet loose it’s magnetic properties over time? And how small are we talking. 1/8” 1/16”

Again thanks.


Remove the ash drawer and look up under the stove. The camera on the phone in selfie mode can really help. You'll see a small, round pinkie finger sized hole. Maybe 1/2". Its got to be 1 1/4 cm or so?
 
3 feet of 6” dbl wall. Into Masonry (brick w/ clay liner 8x12) floor to cap it’s about 30’.
That's a lot of stack. It's going to draft strongly. Close off the boost air hole and add a key damper to the stovepipe. A good strong magnet will hold there. It doesn't get too hot in that location. Remember, a magnet is at the back of surface thermometers for the stovetop and stovepipe where it gets much hotter. Our 1980 Sandhill stove thermometer's magnet is still holding. In lieu of a magnet, a plug of aluminum foil will work, or some high-temp metal duct tape.
 
Read your post and you mention I really loaded it up and after an hour STT was 850. Maybe your loading too much fuel and not turning down the air quick enough with that tall stack. I loaded my PE Vista with more splits than I normally do a month ago and forgot to turn it down quick enough got to 700. I like the 500-600 range.
 
I have a Pacific Super LE and when I am getting excessively hot flue temps it's generally because I don't let the coals burn down enough before reloading. When we need more heat and the stove is still full of hot coals we simply reload with 1 or 2 medium size splits to keep things under control. I also have a strong draft (37' liner inserted into an interior masonry chimney) which sometimes causes an uncontrollable burn. I have to be very careful with the load sizes and have to cut the air down to 95% almost immediately after reloading. I have blocked the boost air port but have yet to install a key damper.
 
I have a Pacific Super LE and when I am getting excessively hot flue temps it's generally because I don't let the coals burn down enough before reloading. When we need more heat and the stove is still full of hot coals we simply reload with 1 or 2 medium size splits to keep things under control. I also have a strong draft (37' liner inserted into an interior masonry chimney) which sometimes causes an uncontrollable burn. I have to be very careful with the load sizes and have to cut the air down to 95% almost immediately after reloading. I have blocked the boost air port but have yet to install a key damper.
A 37' tall flue has the potential to draft very strongly regardless of the stove. A key damper would definitely help tame the draft.
 
We have a T5 and a 30foot liner, i had to install a damper about 7 inches above the stove top made a huge difference