New NC30

[PapaDave]

Should be about 2 more months Woody.
I should learn something in that time.

 

[PapaDave]

The Selkirk doublewall showed up a few minutes ago.
I had to go meet the driver at the truck, since the driveway is a skating rink. Wasn't due until Wed., or Thurs.
Came with a finishing band at the ceiling connection.
This end goes into the stove, correct?

Both ends crimped.
This is all new to me, and I didn't expect both to have a crimp.
Here's the other end. Nothing new to a lot of you's guys.

 

[BobUrban]

Mine is Dura vent and the stove end looks like yours. My telescope is top over bottom if that helps. Haven't had the pipe out all season so can't remember what the top looks like exactly.

 

[PapaDave]

Yep, that's what I thought Bob. The 2nd pic is the outer pipe.

 

[Charlie2]

Should be about 2 more months Woody.
I should learn something in that time.

PapaDave, You've been around here for six years, I've been around here for 6 days and you think you have a learning curve to go through! Did learn something today on the 30, seemed I remembered BrotherBart telling someone to quit worrying about the "secondary burn" and just run the stove like you ought too. So when I started the fire this morning I pulled the air control all the way out and cracked the door like your supposed too and got the fire roaring, but this time I didn't push in the air control back in, instead just let the fire keep building up, watching the flue and the stove top temps. When the temps got to 600 on the flue and 700 on the stove top I throttled her down. That made all the difference in how fast the shop warmed up. If I did wrong, somebody tell me please.
One other thing, I called in my order for the free fan and received it in three days, which was good. I wanted to upgrade it for the rheostat controlled version and the fellow said an upgrade wasn't allowed, but now that I think about it I'm not sure he didn't understand that I was willing to pay the difference. Anyway, if your interested you might try to get the upgrade, I think it would be worth doing.

 

[PapaDave]

It comes with the hair dryer, but the other one is $189.
I think I'll see how that one works.
Wait a minute....free fan? They all come with one.
Oh, and I've been here a bit longer, but I lurked for a while before joining.
Another oh....I found the instruction pamphlet buried in packing peanuts in the box.
Cleared up any confuzzlement I had about the pipe.
Charlie, is that probed doublewall pipe temp?

 

[Charlie2]

It comes with the hair dryer, but the other one is $189.
I think I'll see how that works.

It works okay, but I think the bigger one would be better. I thought if you could pay the difference between the two, something like $50, it would make sense.

Charlie, is that probed doublewall pipe temp?

Single wall up eight or nine feet, then into triple wall and out the building. I was using a IR gun.

 

[Highbeam]

Single wall up eight or nine feet, then into triple wall and out the building. I was using a IR gun.

Whoa! Surface temperatures of 600 on single wall? Dude, too hot. Start closing that draft at pipe temps of 400. 500 should be redline on pipe temp. 700 is fine for stove temps at the hottest point which for me is in front of the flue just above the step top.

 

[PapaDave]

Was thinking the same.
Was it glowing?

 

[Charlie2]

Whoa! Surface temperatures of 600 on single wall? Dude, too hot. Start closing that draft at pipe temps of 400. 500 should be redline on pipe temp. 700 is fine for stove temps at the hottest point which for me is in front of the flue just above the step top.

Thanks. I'll run it again this morning and stay on top of things more carefully. Sure was putting out some heat though!

Dave,
No it wasn't glowing, glow doesn't start until 1,100 degree F.

 

[Highbeam]

Thanks. I'll run it again this morning and stay on top of things more carefully. Sure was putting out some heat though!

Dave,
No it wasn't glowing, glow doesn't start until 1,100 degree F.

There's the problem. 500 outside temperature corresponds to a 1000 degree interior temperature. The skin of that pipe is somewhere between. Surface temps are not the best way to measure exhaust gas temps but on single wall it's about the only way to go.

 

[Osagebndr]

Hello came across this thread and was curious about how many sqft. The englander was rated for heating. We have been discussing getting an EPA stove to replace the one we have now . And it fits our budget pretty good also. Sounds like a sweet little stove

 

[PapaDave]

Got the stove in and running to get the paint cured.
I forgot how loud the smoke detector is.
Windows open.
Doublewall is helping to keep the brick much cooler.
Getting some smoke out the door when I slowly opened to add a bit of wood.

 

[Charlie2]

Hello came across this thread and was curious about how many sqft. The englander was rated for heating. We have been discussing getting an EPA stove to replace the one we have now . And it fits our budget pretty good also. Sounds like a sweet little stove

Osage,
I'm a rank new beginner, but I'm loving the stove. As far as sq footage, I would think it has so much to do with your particular climate and dwelling construction it'd be hard to compare. My shop is 40x40, with another 20x40 room off to the side. It's heavily insulated and pretty well sealed, then you add in my mild climate location (Georgia) and the stove works very well for me. When PapaDave gets his going you'll have a completely different perspective from him. One thing for sure, running it takes a completely different approach and it uses a lot less wood. That's about all a newbie like myself can offer.

 

[Charlie2]

Got the stove in and running to get the paint cured.
I forgot how loud the smoke detector is.
Windows open.
Doublewall is helping to keep the brick much cooler.
Getting some smoke out the door when I slowly opened to add a bit of wood.
View attachment 129962

We don't have any windows that could have been opened, but our lungs filtered out the haze in no time. You opened the air control fully first, before opening the door?

 

[BrotherBart]

Lots of variables as has been said. I heat a 2,500 sq. ft. center hall colonial with a 30-NC now for eight years or so. Yeah it is in Virginia but -4 here in January was probably about the same as -4 anywhere and nobody in this barn got cold.

 

[PapaDave]

We don't have any windows that could have been opened, but our lungs filtered out the haze in no time. You opened the air control fully first, before opening the door?

Yep, opened the air, then the door....slowly.

 

[pen]

Yep, opened the air, then the door....slowly.

It's just because you aren't running the stove in cycles yet and trying to add to a small fire that's actively burning yet not hot enough for really strong draw on the chimney.

Once you get your regular load in and set, there won't be any need to open the door during the active part of the burn cycle where smoke could come back in.

Just part of having a large baffle.

 

[pen]

I'll add, that smoke with the door open also has something to do with how much fuel is in the stove...... as in the fuel load itself inside the stove makes a difference as strange as it sounds.

For example, say I come home from work to a bunch of hot coals but decide to do some sweeping around the stove and clean up some small bark, splinters of wood, etc. If I leave the door open and just throw that stuff on the coals, even in the back of the stove with nothing else in there, I'll get smoke in the room.

However, if I load the stove up with cord wood and leave the door open on that same coal bed, I won't get smoke in the room. Odd, but that's what I get.

 

[PapaDave]

Thanks pen, that's good info.
I need to get the rod and 1/4" gasket for the baffle trick.
Mine came with the back of the baffle goobered with some black sealant. Don't know how long that'll last.
Is the handle suppose to be sloppy?
What I mean is that when the door is open, the handle flops a little going through the door. Snug once the door is closed, but I wonder about a potential for air infiltration.
Should have put in doublewall 4 winters ago. No need for sealant on this stuff, since it fits like a glove.
The brick behind this pipe is only about 100°, while the old 1x pipe kept the wall at least 150-160 on a good burn.
I now see why the R value is so high for the hearth too. It's toasty underneath the stove.
Seriously, I may toast my bread in the morning under there.

ETA: I'm accustomed to adding a couple-3 splits into the Ashley during the day w/o any smoke issue after I added another few feet of pipe.
New stove, new methods. I'll get it.
The overnight loading didn't seem to cause any problem, but the temp has dropped to about 28° and only very minor flame from the previous load @ 6:00 p.m.

 

[Osagebndr]

Thanks charlie2 for the reply. I'm also a newbie been burning for 2 mos. don't know why I didn't start sooner. Like to get a cat stove but their a little pricey and want to make sure a newer stove will hear as we'll as my old one does before I spend the cash.

 

[Jags]

and want to make sure a newer stove will hear as we'll as my old one does before I spend the cash.

Don't know about that...I have yelled at my stove and it doesn't appear to pay any attention.

 

[Highbeam]

Thanks pen, that's good info.
I need to get the rod and 1/4" gasket for the baffle trick.
Mine came with the back of the baffle goobered with some black sealant. Don't know how long that'll last.
Is the handle suppose to be sloppy?
What I mean is that when the door is open, the handle flops a little going through the door. Snug once the door is closed, but I wonder about a potential for air infiltration.
Should have put in doublewall 4 winters ago. No need for sealant on this stuff, since it fits like a glove.
The brick behind this pipe is only about 100°, while the old 1x pipe kept the wall at least 150-160 on a good burn.
I now see why the R value is so high for the hearth too. It's toasty underneath the stove.
Seriously, I may toast my bread in the morning under there.

ETA: I'm accustomed to adding a couple-3 splits into the Ashley during the day w/o any smoke issue after I added another few feet of pipe.
New stove, new methods. I'll get it.
The overnight loading didn't seem to cause any problem, but the temp has dropped to about 28° and only very minor flame from the previous load @ 6:00 p.m.

Rather than jack around with rod and gasket rope, just throw one welding rod on the outside edge of each baffle right on top of the tubes between the baffle edge and the secondary manifold. This takes up the gap just fine and looks OEM. Don't eliminate all gaps. The stove and/or the baffles expand and contract with heat and you need some space for this. Gaps when cold will be gone when the stove is hot.

They also siliconed my baffle boards in place at the back with the same black gasket cement they used on the door gasket. I removed that silicone before the first fire so that I could adjust the location of the baffles properly. They were glued in crooked, I believe they are just trying to keep them from moving during shipment.

My handle is sloppy and yes this is an air leak. Fear not, the leak is small and this is a non-cat stove so it is FAR from airtight anyway. The doghouse hole for example is a big intentional leak.

 

[PapaDave]

Good idea Highbeam.
Welding rod.....I think I may be able to get some at the local hardware.
Yep, with all the air going in this stove (and others, I'm sure) a little going in around the handle isn't a huge deal. It was on the Ashley, to the point where I used a washer on it to keep it minimal.
Helped a bit.

 

[Osagebndr]

I yell at mine also jags lol, but it doesn't do any good either