New liner in and ... wow what a difference!

[redhorse]

We got our new liner put in this week (when from an 8" oval uninsulated liner with leaky joints and no terminal cap to a good 6" insulated liner airtight from the stove to the cap). We lit the stove today and holy cow, what a difference! I don't think we'll be able to run the stove with much more than 1/2 air for fear of too much heat. Went from a cold stove to full afterburn in about an hour. So, I guess we won't be tossing the Harman out in the front yard after all.

There is only one "issue" now: the strong draft is causing a howling/whistling sound. It seems to be coming from where the pipe connects to the stove (it appears the pipe is slightly off round, creating a "lip" for the moving air to blow over, making the sound). It sounds a little bit like wind whistling through an old window. I tried to reshape the pipe a little bit to make it fit better, but there was no change in the noise even as I was pressing on things. We're pretty sure it's not coming from air intake on the stove...

Is this something we should be worried about? It's not horribly annoying, but actually is fairly loud. It got better once we closed the bypass damper.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

As long as the pipe can not come out of the flue collar it's not something I would worry about. To disrupt the air flow a bit you can fill the hole with furnace cement. It will eventually crack, but it will make the hole smaller and stop the whistle.

Matt

 

[begreen]

Good to hear that you are seeing a nice change. These stoves are draft sensitive but with good draft they can certainly heat.

 

[VCBurner]

Thanks for sharing your story. I look forward to purchasing a liner soon and seeing as good an improvement with my set up. As far as the pipe, I had a similar issue with my previous pipe going into the stove flue collar was a bit untrue. The new pipe was like that too. The flatter part of the pipe was just a result of where the pipe is joined. I put this part facing one of the screws that go into the pipe to hold it in place. Pre drill the whole then tighten slowly as to pull the flat part close to the flue collar and close the gap. Good luck. I hope I understood your situation and this helps.

 

[redhorse]

I think part of the problem is that the angle is a little "off" and the pipe coming down to the stove is not flush with the stove. If we pull the stove out an inch or two, that may help the angle. If putting in some additional screws doesn't help, I'll try the furnace cement. Thanks.

 

[pen]

Glad to hear of the improvement and that the stove is working as it should.

I agree with the above that a bit of furnace cement may be all you need to seal things up.

pen

 

[raybonz]

We got our new liner put in this week (when from an 8" oval uninsulated liner with leaky joints and no terminal cap to a good 6" insulated liner airtight from the stove to the cap). We lit the stove today and holy cow, what a difference! I don't think we'll be able to run the stove with much more than 1/2 air for fear of too much heat. Went from a cold stove to full afterburn in about an hour. So, I guess we won't be tossing the Harman out in the front yard after all.

There is only one "issue" now: the strong draft is causing a howling/whistling sound. It seems to be coming from where the pipe connects to the stove (it appears the pipe is slightly off round, creating a "lip" for the moving air to blow over, making the sound). It sounds a little bit like wind whistling through an old window. I tried to reshape the pipe a little bit to make it fit better, but there was no change in the noise even as I was pressing on things. We're pretty sure it's not coming from air intake on the stove...

Is this something we should be worried about? It's not horribly annoying, but actually is fairly loud. It got better once we closed the bypass damper.

We got the same results here and even a little whistling sound too but not too loud.. It will quiet down once a little soot gets in the pipe.. I like it as it lets me know the chimney is ready so I can close my cat bypass.. Man when that draft is ready it could suck the farts out of a dead seagull lol.. I also had to cut my dampers down about half.. Wish I'd had that liner 20 yrs. ago!

Ray

 

[oldspark]

Hoping a new chimney will make my summit a "new" stove cause I aint happy with it now. This post gives me a positive feeling about spending yet more money.

 

[leeave96]

Hoping a new chimney will make my summit a "new" stove cause I aint happy with it now. This post gives me a positive feeling about spending yet more money.

FWIW, I went from a 6.5 inch ID square terra cotta chimney liner to an insulated round 6 inch inch smooth rigid liner (had to bust out the old liner to make room for the 6"/w insulation.

The difference was dramatic. I highly recommend a round pipe and it being insulated.

BTW, my chimney is fairly short too.

Bill

 

[oldspark]

Hoping a new chimney will make my summit a "new" stove cause I aint happy with it now. This post gives me a positive feeling about spending yet more money.

FWIW, I went from a 6.5 inch ID square terra cotta chimney liner to an insulated round 6 inch inch smooth rigid liner (had to bust out the old liner to make room for the 6"/w insulation.

The difference was dramatic. I highly recommend a round pipe and it being insulated.

BTW, my chimney is fairly short too.

Bill

Mine is round and inside and insulated (was when new) but it still not up to par, Its 7 1/4 inch and has two 90's so hoping the 6 inch with no 90's fixes the problem.

 

[certified106]

Hoping a new chimney will make my summit a "new" stove cause I aint happy with it now. This post gives me a positive feeling about spending yet more money.

Just curious what's wrong with your Summit as I hear so many positive reviews of the stove?

 

[Seasoned Oak]

You will get a whoosing air sound from the AB firing when you close the bypass,sounds like a jet taking off in the distance,it usually dissipates after a short time. Good draft Makes for a strong reburn and a clean flue.Now your cookin with gas(wood gas)

 

[oldspark]

Hoping a new chimney will make my summit a "new" stove cause I aint happy with it now. This post gives me a positive feeling about spending yet more money.

Just curious what's wrong with your Summit as I hear so many positive reviews of the stove?

Dont think its the stove, can not get the top end out of it, there's a ton of posts about my problems over the winter, about 600 is max on the stove top and it takes for ever to heat the house, my old stove would kick its ass hands down.

 

[DanCorcoran]

We got our new liner put in this week (when from an 8" oval uninsulated liner with leaky joints and no terminal cap to a good 6" insulated liner airtight from the stove to the cap). We lit the stove today and holy cow, what a difference! I don't think we'll be able to run the stove with much more than 1/2 air for fear of too much heat. Went from a cold stove to full afterburn in about an hour. So, I guess we won't be tossing the Harman out in the front yard after all.

You may have already done this, but I suggest you go back to your earlier thread(s) (where you were very unhappy with the Harman) and update them with your latest experience. In this way, folks who are searching for Harman threads won't be discouraged from buying, thinking the problem was the stove.

 

[Jimbob]

Hoping a new chimney will make my summit a "new" stove cause I aint happy with it now. This post gives me a positive feeling about spending yet more money.

O/S, Have you tried running your stove like this?
You should be easily able to hit 1000 °F on the stove top.

 

[oldspark]

Jimbob, I have it that full but it does not get over about 600 or so (no fan), it seems like I can get a hotter fire with less dense wood and keeping the ashes to a minum but it still likes to "top out" at about 600.

 

[Jimbob]

I find that odd. Right now my stove is most of the way through a load of Poplar (not as mich as in the pic), and the Stovetop is sitting at 780 °F and the stack is ~ 500 °F with the air control all the way closed.
To achieve that 600, what position do you have the air control?

 

[oldspark]

I have tried every setting you can think of, I even tried 2X6's backing down the air as the temp comes up, the other thing is my flue temps are high, thought about a damper but not sure that will help, I think I need more draft instead of less. No sure the chimney will fix it but it needs work any way.

 

[Jimbob]

How high are your flue temps?

 

[oldspark]

I did discover my temp sensor (magnetic single wall) is off above 550 or so but with my IR testor I could easily hit 700 to 800 if I do not keep an eye on it.

 

[Jimbob]

That sounds about right, mine will do that, too.
If you were to re-load onto a good bed of coals, open your air control to 1/2 way, let the flue temp get to 800, then back off the air to ~ 10%, what would happen?
Would you get the stovetop temp higher than 600?

 

[oldspark]

That sounds about right, mine will do that, too.
If you were to re-load onto a good bed of coals, open your air control to 1/2 way, let the flue temp get to 800, then back off the air to ~ 10%, what would happen?
Would you get the stovetop temp higher than 600?

Nope, it seems to hold up at about 600 or so no matter what I do and what type of wood I use. People talk about having a hard time keeping the stove top bleow 700 or so and I just can not get it there so some reason.

 

[Jimbob]

Do you get good secondary flames when you re-load and turn it down?

 

[oldspark]

Do you get good secondary flames when you re-load and turn it down?

Yep very good secondaries.

 

[Jimbob]

The fact that you get good secondaries, and that you can easily "bury the needle" on the stovepipe thermo, tells me that you already have good draft.
You have a 7" insulated steel chimney, running straight up through the ceiling?

In your situation, a damper might help you.
It'd be worth a try, anyway.