Looks like you ran into a stud where the thimble needed to go? I have the same stove. You wont be disapointed . As for the caulk taking 24hrs to cure dont worry about that. When i did hvac we all started using hi temp silicone on boiler and furnace clean out plates and smoke pipes. We started them up instantly after our annual service cause we couldnt leave a customer with no heat for 24hrs. Returning the next year the caulk was properly sealed and strong as ever. Nice install. Somebody mentioned something about drilling out the holes on our particular burn pot to help the ash drop out of the pan.im hesitant to do this. But these pots tend to hold alot of ash and build up quick. See how it does. Good luck
My issue (and I've seen this happen more than once) is, when you terminate below a roof line, especially near siding, the blowback over a period of years will turn the siding grey to black and it won't come off.... My termination cap isn't black for no reason but mine is above the roofline. It soots the shingles a bit.....
my stove seems to be feeding the pellets fine. But acts more like some sort of air issue. But have tried everything and no luck. But guess could grab a different bag of pellets to rule out the pellets.
With my green supremes ive been burning on 1 for weeks. No issues. I wonder if natural draft plays a role in this? Because ive heard the number 1 setting issueMy flame height will drop real low into burn pot between pellet drops and will flare back up to almost heat exchanger tubes on inside top of stove, after dropping pellets into burn pot. I will tell you one thing, I have not ran lower than a #2 setting on controller, because a #1 setting, it will burn itself out from starving for fuel, that is even with damper on intake tube inside back of stove, closed off as far as it will close. Opening it up will only burn the fuel quicker. With it closed as far as it will go, I still have a sharp dancing flame with no black tips, it burning decent.
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