New house, new pellet stove. Lots of questions.

[coffeecup86]

One has no power...one does!

 

[Mt Bob]

OK,I was not sure which side was power on your stove. With stove trying to start, combustion fan running,door and hopper shut,call light on, you should have power on both.

 

[coffeecup86]

Looks like its set up with a bypass? So when the lid is opened it does cut out? I'm going by my husbands theory. But neither of the "bypass" wires worked either...so who knows what is going on here. We followed the non working wire and it created a loop. It's weird. I dunno, I'm scratching my head. Nothing is wired to the hopper lid button.

 

[Mt Bob]

The bypass was probably because the hopper switch went bad. How about the last test I said?

 

[coffeecup86]

Still just power on one side.

 

[Mt Bob]

OK,you have an issue with the vacuum switch,or the hose to the firepot. You can do several things, but,to keep things moving-- you can make and install a"bypass" just like the other one,and bypass the vacuum switch and see if stove runs properly. That should keep hubby busy for a little,lol.

Now,other things, you can remove the hose off the switch, pay attention to where it hooks up,some stoves have 2 nipples it can fit on. Try blowing into the hose. If you cannot, the nipple at the othe rend is probably plugged up, which would not be suprising as bad as that stove and pipe were.

 

[Mt Bob]

To continue,if you cannot blow through it, you will have to follow it to the stove side nipple,remove.try again.Sometimes the hose gets plugged. If it is OK,then you have to take something and clean out the nipple down at that end.Usually a paper clip will work. Thats enough for now.

 

[coffeecup86]

We are going to start with the hose...you have been very helpful sir. I thank you kindly.

 

[Mt Bob]

We are going to start with the hose...you have been very helpful sir. I thank you kindly.

NP,will be around for a bit.

 

[coffeecup86]

Well we cannot get the hose off. From either end. I did shoot some compressed air in there. I cannot find a hose that goes to the fireboat. We have a chamber that goes to the firepot.
The hose I do see is connected from the auger shoot to the pressure switch.

Still no power coming to the auger wires. This thing is a crap shoot.

 

[Mt Bob]

Yes,manufacturers hook them up in different places. At this point, jump(bypass) the vacuum switch and see if stove works.

 

[Mt Bob]

If hose/nipple is open,you should be able to see dust moving inside stove burn area,with compressed air, but door would have to be open,it is a small hose and nipple.
If so,remove vacuum switch and tap nipple into your hand and see if ashes come out. If so,keep tapping. You can check switch by sucking on it,you should hear a click. If so,you can test with an ohm meter across the terminals, should have continuity when sucking on it.
How this works-- when stove starts, combustion motor starts. It draws a vacuum inside the stove. The stove senses this through the hose and switch, and allows the auger to function. If any of the gaskets are in bad shape,IE hopper,door, ash door, stove might not make enough vacuum to run, or cause intermitten problems.

 

[Mt Bob]

OK reading time. So you may want to save this ling,if you do not have it,or print it out--

https://downloads.hearthnhome.com/communications/ECO%20PELLET_consumer_serv_man.pdf

 

[gfreek]

By pass, jump, the vacuum switch and see if that gets it going....of course unplug if first when installing bypass or jumper wires.. Troubleshooting is a process, go thru the steps listed in the above service manual and you should be good.

 

[coffeecup86]

By pass, jump, the vacuum switch and see if that gets it going....of course unplug if first when installing bypass or jumper wires.. Troubleshooting is a process, go thru the steps listed in the above service manual and you should be good.

Okay, once I exhaust the above option I'll order the jumper cable and give it a try. It is currently -23 with wind chill. I'm missing my stove, even though I'm glaring at it lol.
Now, a quick google on how to bypass this with a jumper tells me you shouldn't leave this running with a bypass....is that legit? If so, now I'm kinda in a situation where we just discovered a bypass already in this stove that someone already put in there prior to our ownership of this home...if this is the vacuum switch should I order with or without hose? We couldn't even get the dang hose off this sucker when we tried...we did have power going to the vac switch previously, just not the side controlling the hopper switch. Why are there so. many different switches in pellet stoves. Wow. This is engineering at its finest.

 

[coffeecup86]

If hose/nipple is open,you should be able to see dust moving inside stove burn area,with compressed air, but door would have to be open,it is a small hose and nipple.
If so,remove vacuum switch and tap nipple into your hand and see if ashes come out. If so,keep tapping. You can check switch by sucking on it,you should hear a click. If so,you can test with an ohm meter across the terminals, should have continuity when sucking on it.
How this works-- when stove starts, combustion motor starts. It draws a vacuum inside the stove. The stove senses this through the hose and switch, and allows the auger to function. If any of the gaskets are in bad shape,IE hopper,door, ash door, stove might not make enough vacuum to run, or cause intermitten problems.

Okay, I got the vacuum switch off and removed from the hose. There was some fine dust inside of it. I think I got the majority out, new on it and no click...however it does click when its being tapped or moved around...normal? Bad? It does click when I suck air out of it. Yay!

 

[Mt Bob]

Do you have an ohm meter to check it?

 

[Mt Bob]

You will not "buy a jumper/bypass. It is simply 2 terminals crimped to a short wire.
You need to make sure that nipple is open.
Yes,the hoses get old and stuck to the nipples,you may have to ruin it to get it off,but I would twist/turn it with pliers a little,it will come loose,then can be pulled off.
All these switches are safety switches,although the hopper ones can be troublesome, so many leave them unhooked.Many stoves do not have them.
Putting in a "bypass" on any other switch is considered for testing,not long term,and stove should only be used when you are home.

 

[Mt Bob]

You can take vacuum switch to any auto repair shop or parts store and they can help you test it. Also,any shop would make you a few "jumpers" for next to nothing, and a parts store,or home depot,harbor freight,hardware store can sell you a cheap terminal pack which includes the crimpers,and a bit of wire.
Heck,for testing,you could jump the wires with a paper clip, and tape it up well.
The terminals are this-

 

[Mt Bob]

You could also take any spray can of anything,like wd40,and see if it is open. Careful it is small,and will spray back,so wrap a paper towel around it.

 

[coffeecup86]

You will not "buy a jumper/bypass. It is simply 2 terminals crimped to a short wire.
You need to make sure that nipple is open.
Yes,the hoses get old and stuck to the nipples,you may have to ruin it to get it off,but I would twist/turn it with pliers a little,it will come loose,then can be pulled off.
All these switches are safety switches,although the hopper ones can be troublesome, so many leave them unhooked.Many stoves do not have them.
Putting in a "bypass" on any other switch is considered for testing,not long term,and stove should only be used when you are home.

The nipple is open. I'm able to get air inside the vacuum. It clicks when the stove is plugged in and reset to function.
I guess I am not sure how to jump/bypass something with two female ends. I'm sorry for my shortcomings. This is all very new to me.

 

[coffeecup86]

You can take vacuum switch to any auto repair shop or parts store and they can help you test it. Also,any shop would make you a few "jumpers" for next to nothing, and a parts store,or home depot,harbor freight,hardware store can sell you a cheap terminal pack which includes the crimpers,and a bit of wire.
Heck,for testing,you could jump the wires with a paper clip, and tape it up well.
The terminals are this-
View attachment 289937

I'll have to see if we have any of those kicking around the garage.

 

[gfreek]

Take a pic of the wires connected to the vacuum switch for reference, unplug the unit, take a piece of wire preferably with male spades at each end, or as mentioned above a paper clip, or wire stripped at each end and pushed into the female wires ends, or even mini alligator clips, disconnect wires at vacuum switch connect the jumper wire to the two wires, wrap connection with electrical tape, that bypasses the switch, again this for testing mode only. The switches are safety switches for user safety..

 

[Mt Bob]

Had to reread that,sorry, making some raisin bread. anyway-
If you can feel and hear the switch click when the stove starts(vacuum is buit up by the blower) and you still get no voltage to the other side of the switch,then you know it is bad. Might as well order a switch and have it in a few days. As far as the hose,up to you.I like to replace that hose when fixing a stove, but doesn't always happen. In the mean time,I would make a jumper,or whatever,and test the rest of the stove.

 

[coffeecup86]

Take a pic of the wires connected to the vacuum switch for reference, unplug the unit, take a piece of wire preferably with male spades at each end, or as mentioned above a paper clip, or wire stripped at each end and pushed into the female wires ends, or even mini alligator clips, disconnect wires at vacuum switch connect the jumper wire to the two wires, wrap connection with electrical tape, that bypasses the switch, again this for testing mode only. The switches are safety switches for user safety..

Okay, I did that and the auger started working! So at this point I have ordered a new vacuum switch. The stove is disconnected and awaiting a new switch. I pray this works. I thank you all for helping me.