New Harman PB105 installed, up and running!

[Pellet_Dog]

When the retro kit was installed in my boiler in an effort to correct the “burnpot bubble issue,†the 10 RPM auger came with the kit. Does your boiler have the 10 RPM auger without the pressure ignition?

Glad to see you join the post Wil, I have read pretty much all your posts on this and other forums with your experiences with the PB105 which have helped a lot.

I have the Gleason Avery 6 RPM auger motor with a date tag of 2005. I would think the pressure ignition would work with either motor unless there is a physical size difference between the two that would prevent installation with the older motor.

Was there in increase in pellet consumption with the newer motor since it turns faster or was the control board updated to run the auger less than with the 6 RPM motor?

 

[wil lanfear]

I've not noticed any increase in pellet usage with the 10 RPM auger. I even tried using the 6 RPM auger but....... I found that using the 10 RPM auger, the dip switches are set differently which feed less pellets into the burnpot on startup, quicker ignition. The hot air from the igniter enters the burnpot at the bottom of the burnpot so, not many pellets have to be in the burnpot for ignition. The controller didn't need to be upgraded.

 

[Pellet_Dog]

Well I took a ride down to the dealer since its pretty close to talk about the retro kit. They had no knowledge of it so called right to Harman and came back with an answer that its not something they will give away and will cost $920 if I want it as the feed assembly and control board also needs replaced. So no thanks on that one but they were nice enough to give me a new 15 fin ignitor for when my 13 fin goes. Since we know the burn pot still cracks with the new ignition system I'm not really going to worry about having the old finned ignition system since it works good enough to light up after cleaning and then I just switch it over to manual until it is time to clean again or it gets too warm out.

 

[Spartan]

Since we know the burn pot still cracks with the new ignition system I'm not really going to worry about having the old finned ignition system since it works good enough to light up after cleaning and then I just switch it over to manual until it is time to clean again or it gets too warm out.

Burn pot cracks? I thought it was the bottom screen?

While doing a little bit of home work on the net, I notice that there was a problem with the bottom screen "blistering" on the 105's. If so, I have a couple of questions and I may be able to help you guys with perhaps a cheaper or permanent solution. .

First, I need to know if the existing one is stainless steel. Then I need to know how it's attached.

In case this thread lands up in the back somewhere before I respond to it, PM me.

 

[Pellet_Dog]

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/53004/

 

[summit]

6 rpm motor cant fill the pot fast enough with enough fuel for the pressure system to light it and get it up to temp fast enough to key the igniter to turn off...I think, anyway. Its the only reason I see. Pressure system operates at higher temps, and forced in airflow to the feeder tube, hence it takes off quickly, but there is also alot more potential wear on it and the extra components it requires. You change the airflw under the pot completely to have it shoot hot air to ignite the pellets thru the tube opening. I've put a couple in, now, one on a boiler that was about 2 yrs old (PITA cause it was full of ash, pellets, etc... everything had to be vaccumed out and scraped down 1st!) and in place in alot smaller area to work in than what looks like your basement.... the other was on the lift at the shop, brand new outta the box. That went much better.

 

[Spartan]

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/53004/

Bingo. It's not stainless steel because Harmon is working on making them out of that material.

There is a fabrication shop up here that has done some work for me and I'm almost sure they could make those. They have a CNC punch and I believe they also have a laser cutter plus all the usual sheet metal machines IF Harmon doesn't; have a solution and IF they are not replacing them under warranty, then I think the guys I'm thinking about should be able to supply reasonable cost replacements.

If you guys with 100/105 are interested, I can call them, ask them if they are interested and if indeed they can make it, and if they can, then they will need a detail drawing OR an old pot to quote on it.

Let me know. It wont take more then a couple of minutes of my time but in the end, you guys may have a long term solution. Maybe even a permanent one.

 

[wil lanfear]

The stainless burnpot wasn't the answer to the burnpot bubble issue. Please read my posts.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/53004/

I would be interested in having a burnpot manufactured if the steel in the link below was used for the burning surface of the pot.

http://www.sandmeyersteel.com/A600.html

 

[exoilburner]

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/53004/

Bingo. It's not stainless steel because Harmon is working on making them out of that material.

There is a fabrication shop up here that has done some work for me and I'm almost sure they could make those. They have a CNC punch and I believe they also have a laser cutter plus all the usual sheet metal machines IF Harmon doesn't; have a solution and IF they are not replacing them under warranty, then I think the guys I'm thinking about should be able to supply reasonable cost replacements.

If you guys with 100/105 are interested, I can call them, ask them if they are interested and if indeed they can make it, and if they can, then they will need a detail drawing OR an old pot to quote on it.

Let me know. It wont take more then a couple of minutes of my time but in the end, you guys may have a long term solution. Maybe even a permanent one.

Count me in. I would like to see a cost, set up charge, and a fit check.
The material wil is talking about looks like a good choice for material.

The time Harmon has been taking to fix this and the lack of communication to their customers are not good indicators.
I'm no expert but this fix seems like an engineering "no-brainer". Other burn-pots use stainless steel plates. You'd think the higher BTU furnaces and boilers would use something more heavy duty than the stoves.
Just checked the Poll numbers on this forum; the burn-pot has a 75% failure rate. That is beyond ridiculous.
The new Harmon Hydroflex 60 pellet boiler uses a different burn pot (1-10-232079A) wonder what kind of material it is made from.

 

[Spartan]

Here is the name of a company that I used several times to make components for me. Their rates were reasonable on every project and sometimes, they were half of the other guys.

http://www.bantrymetal.ca/

I did NOT call them. You guys can call them if you want but be aware that you need either good drawings or you need to send them the old pieces os they can quote/copy. All I can tell you is that they are a real company, they know whar they are doing and they are easy to deal with. The rest is up to you.

If you guys get together and make 4 or 5 of them, you will probably be stunned at how lower the price can get. I don't know what stainless steel they have in stock, keep in mind that if you want something exotic, you will pay through the nose for it. On top of that, those exotic places have big minimums. Plus if there is any welding involved, those exotics may not be suitable for that. It's often much cheaper to make something thicker or make more of them then to play with exotics. I know because I tried so source titanium for my motorcycle parts and was blown away with $500 minimums.

Here is a page for stainless steel properties.....and I think that this is one of the more common type.

http://www.upmet.com/321-general.shtml

 

[daver1980]

Has anyone installed a water to air heat exchanger over their ac coil in the plenum? Just wondering if you had any issues with it freezing in the summer?

 

[Pellet_Dog]

Has anyone installed a water to air heat exchanger over their ac coil in the plenum? Just wondering if you had any issues with it freezing in the summer?

That's how mine is setup. I haven't had it through the summer yet so I don't know about the freezing part. My AC coil is towards the bottom of the plenum, and the heat exchanger is at the top with the blower motor in between. I don't think the coil gets cold enough that it would freeze the water inside the heat exchanger from the air passing over it. I guess one could put a thermometer in the plenum and see what the actual air temperature is?

 

[Countryboymo]

My sister and brother in law has a different wood boiler system and has the exchanger in the supply duct and has a panel that comes off and the exchanger slides out for summer and a different sheet metal plate slides in its place that has no slots for the inlet and outlet pipe. The water will not freeze anyway and this was just done so the static pressure would be lower and have easy access to the exchanger.


If the coil was cold enough for the air to freeze the water in the heat exchanger it would be so cold the coil itself would freeze up solid.

 

[daver1980]

Does anyone have any guidance on installing a second thermostat to kick on the blower in the furnace? I have a 2 stage furnace with variable speed blower. I have a white Rodgers 1f95-1271 as my primary furnace tstat. And I have a white Rodgers 1f83-261 as my secondary pb105 tstat. I have wires going from W to G & R to W2 secondary respectively. I found some instructions on central boilers website which had R to R & W to G. Do I need a 1 stage tstat for the secondary or any other ideas?