New Enviro M55 FS stove owner
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Cleaned the unit and fired it up. Been anywhere from the 30's-40's during the day and teens-20's at night. It seems as though the fan isn't quite pumping out the volume as before. I may cycle it off and tear it down and see if the fan is dirty or needs attention. This will be season 8 (if I recall) with this unit.
It just needed a good cleaning. Working great now. Been a mild winter thus far
Well I had to order another distribution fan. This will be the third. I can tell the fan is on it's way out- the bearing is making all hells kind of noise and the velocity of the output air is dropping.
I can say that is certainly the weak link in this unit. This will be the third fan in 9 years. They run about $325 a pop too.
I can say that is certainly the weak link in this unit. This will be the third fan in 9 years. They run about $325 a pop too.
Fired her up in October. Had a few cold spells and a few snow storms. Got two tons of Idaho Supremes in the garage. Unit needs a good cleaning but it's pumping out the heat.
Back again for another fun year! Haven't had the unit on yet, but this weekend looks like the start to this seasons heating. I've stocked up on 4.5 tons of pellets. We're keeping this unit but buying a new Harmon insert unit to replace an old propane fireplace upstairs. With all the supply chain issues and backlogs the new Harmon is out 20weeks or more (at least here). Will let you know how it goes!
Back for another year! Gonna be single digits lows this week.
So had to do some parts replacements after a decade of use. Needed a new agitator rod, fire grate and burn pot and replaced the distribution fan. Parts (except the fan) cost $195.89 from Stove & Grill Parts For Less. I think the fan was $225.00. Fan took me less than 30 minutes, everything else was just drop in. She fired right up and is chugging along.
Buying 2 tons of Idaho Supremes for $275 a ton. Man they are getting pricey!
Anyway- love the stove, it's been a dependable workhorse in our house for over a decade. No complaints from me.
So had to do some parts replacements after a decade of use. Needed a new agitator rod, fire grate and burn pot and replaced the distribution fan. Parts (except the fan) cost $195.89 from Stove & Grill Parts For Less. I think the fan was $225.00. Fan took me less than 30 minutes, everything else was just drop in. She fired right up and is chugging along.
Buying 2 tons of Idaho Supremes for $275 a ton. Man they are getting pricey!
Anyway- love the stove, it's been a dependable workhorse in our house for over a decade. No complaints from me.
I fired mine up a few weeks ago. I was unable to do any maintenance due to injuries. Pressed the button and it fired up, ran fine. I switched over to the Harman because it uses less pellets in the shoulder season. I’ll be back to the big guy soon j reckon. These things really are hardy stoves.
We never bought an insert for upstairs. We decided to keep that propane for now. It's been pretty steady single digit temps at night for a month, and getting some snow. Looks like a real Montana winter this year. Already 5" ice on the lakes.
I've already run almost a 3/4 ton in the stove in a month. Going to go grab 2 tons of pellets this weekend if the forklift guy is around.
I've already run almost a 3/4 ton in the stove in a month. Going to go grab 2 tons of pellets this weekend if the forklift guy is around.
Another year and still going strong. Gave it a good cleaning last night.after reading yours, I decide to buy the same one
Still going now for 14th season. Gave it a good cleaning and been using it as night temps are as low as teens already.
You have a ways to go to catch my Envrio ef3
in its 22 season, only ever replaced circulation fan
Runs 24/7 from mid-November to the middle of April
Keep your stove clean and it will keep you warm
in its 22 season, only ever replaced circulation fan
Runs 24/7 from mid-November to the middle of April
Keep your stove clean and it will keep you warm
My M55 FS-S is from 2009. Other than the upgraded convection blower and slide/feed adjustment inside the hopper - Are any other upgrades/hacks? I'd like to upgrade the fuse panel away from glass fuses, and do a pot mod, similar to what @bostonfan49 @jtakeman @JHASS has done due to all the unburnt's that find their way into the ashpan.
Hi, I see that the original post here is several years old but hoping the topic is still open and of interest.
TLDR: Looking for advise on an Enviro M55 with weak flame/underfeeding pellets. Have opened up the auger cover - what might be wrong?
I've had a Regency Greenfire GFI55 pellet stove fireplace insert running for a dozen years in my basement, going through ~4 tons each winter. I’ve learned a lot and really like the pellet heating which with the furnace fan left on to recirculate air largely heats the whole house. It’s getting old and I’ve replaced the blower and auger motors, so I started thinking of doing an upgrade. I saw that some clean models now qualify for a 30% tax credit so started looking for those. I ended up finding what I thought was the ideal solution – there was a floor model Enviro M55 cast iron insert at a fireplace shop that displayed it as a test. Their whole business is gas fireplaces and inserts so this new M55 was offered at a great clearance price. It was a lengthy roadtrip but I bought it and hauled it home. I share all of that to explain that I have sole responsibility for this stove – that dealer has no expertise nor support for it.
I found this thing is a real tank, super heavy cast iron. I’ve gotten up the learning curve on putting the cast iron bits on and off, and successfully installed it. On firing it up it just does not seem to keep burning. Even after getting the auger fully primed the pellet feed just is not fast enough to sustain a good flame, even with heat set to 5 and feed trim to 5. From another post on here I found that the auger cover is adjustable. REALLY helpful post on here showing pictures. I moved it up over an inch, and now just one hole remains covered (IE the cover is up almost all the way). I can pull everything again and move it the remaining distance but it wouldn’t expose much more of the auger.
Since this thing is so big/heavy making removal not trivial, before I try again – does ANYONE have advice on the M55? I’m starting to miss my Regency stove (which already has a new and very happy owner).
TLDR: Looking for advise on an Enviro M55 with weak flame/underfeeding pellets. Have opened up the auger cover - what might be wrong?
I've had a Regency Greenfire GFI55 pellet stove fireplace insert running for a dozen years in my basement, going through ~4 tons each winter. I’ve learned a lot and really like the pellet heating which with the furnace fan left on to recirculate air largely heats the whole house. It’s getting old and I’ve replaced the blower and auger motors, so I started thinking of doing an upgrade. I saw that some clean models now qualify for a 30% tax credit so started looking for those. I ended up finding what I thought was the ideal solution – there was a floor model Enviro M55 cast iron insert at a fireplace shop that displayed it as a test. Their whole business is gas fireplaces and inserts so this new M55 was offered at a great clearance price. It was a lengthy roadtrip but I bought it and hauled it home. I share all of that to explain that I have sole responsibility for this stove – that dealer has no expertise nor support for it.
I found this thing is a real tank, super heavy cast iron. I’ve gotten up the learning curve on putting the cast iron bits on and off, and successfully installed it. On firing it up it just does not seem to keep burning. Even after getting the auger fully primed the pellet feed just is not fast enough to sustain a good flame, even with heat set to 5 and feed trim to 5. From another post on here I found that the auger cover is adjustable. REALLY helpful post on here showing pictures. I moved it up over an inch, and now just one hole remains covered (IE the cover is up almost all the way). I can pull everything again and move it the remaining distance but it wouldn’t expose much more of the auger.
Since this thing is so big/heavy making removal not trivial, before I try again – does ANYONE have advice on the M55? I’m starting to miss my Regency stove (which already has a new and very happy owner).
What mode are you running the stove in?
Manual --Thermostat connection terminals must have a jumper installed
Hi/Low -- requires a thermostat
On/Off -- requires a thermostat
Sounds like you have the stove set in Hi/Low and without a stat it will
only burn in low no matter what you set the heat at until the stat calls for heat
then it will ramp up to whatever the heat setting is at
As it is a new stove you should have a manual if not here is one
Welcome to the forum
NOTE READ THE WARNING ON PAGE 10 ABOUT THE AUGER COVER ADJUSTMENT
Manual --Thermostat connection terminals must have a jumper installed
Hi/Low -- requires a thermostat
On/Off -- requires a thermostat
Sounds like you have the stove set in Hi/Low and without a stat it will
only burn in low no matter what you set the heat at until the stat calls for heat
then it will ramp up to whatever the heat setting is at
As it is a new stove you should have a manual if not here is one
Welcome to the forum
NOTE READ THE WARNING ON PAGE 10 ABOUT THE AUGER COVER ADJUSTMENT
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Wow - I think you just solved the mystery and maybe I don't have to pull it out again!
I am running it in manual mode so I assumed no thermostat was required. I do have the manual with it (and thanks for the link to the online PDF). The manual does not say that the thermostat connection needs to be jumpered closed and there was no installation documentation that hinted at shunting closed the thermostat.
After I pulled it the third time to take off the back panel to get access to the auger cover, I also took notice of the thermostat connection. The terminals are not shunted but they had a wire lead installed with two female aircraft wire connectors. The stove did come with a spool of thermostat wire and a thermostat. I connected up the wire but left it then. I can just short that connector or go ahead and connect the thermostat. I'll post an update. Thanks again
Dear Johneh, oh "Minister of Fire" - you definitely deserve your title
You solved it. The stove needs a thermostat connected to run in auto, and a thermostat (or shunted closed) to run in manual.
I would think that these would be shipped from the factory with the thermostat connections closed so it can run - OR explicitly marked in the manual.
The stove is running like a champ! Thank you. I owe you a beverage or a couple of bags of pellets!
You solved it. The stove needs a thermostat connected to run in auto, and a thermostat (or shunted closed) to run in manual.
I would think that these would be shipped from the factory with the thermostat connections closed so it can run - OR explicitly marked in the manual.
The stove is running like a champ! Thank you. I owe you a beverage or a couple of bags of pellets!
Glade it worked for you
After some reading, I find that now Envrio recommends the stat be installed and that you run the stove on high/Low
I wish my old ef3 could use a stat. Say you set it at 72
when there is a heat call the stove would ramp up . When you reach that temp the stove would wind down to a maintenance burn which in most cases keeps the area at the desired Temp. just my thoughts
Enjoy the heat
After some reading, I find that now Envrio recommends the stat be installed and that you run the stove on high/Low
I wish my old ef3 could use a stat. Say you set it at 72
when there is a heat call the stove would ramp up . When you reach that temp the stove would wind down to a maintenance burn which in most cases keeps the area at the desired Temp. just my thoughtsEnjoy the heat
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