New englander stove question

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I burn higher btu softwoods of course but that doesn't seem to matter much for burntimes since I still got the same 8-10 hours on low as everyone else in the world. What seems to happen when folks burn high btu hardwoods is that the heat output goes up but burntimes stay constant.
Not in my experience i burn some soft woods in the shoulder seasons and yes with them i only have coals in the morning. But once it gets cold i burn ash oak hickory or locust mainly and i can shut the stove back allot harder and still maintain stack temp.
 
I burn higher btu softwoods of course but that doesn't seem to matter much for burntimes since I still got the same 8-10 hours on low as everyone else in the world. What seems to happen when folks burn high btu hardwoods is that the heat output goes up but burntimes stay constant.

As someone who has burned both I can say that there is a clear difference between higher and lower BTU wood and burn times. A full firebox of pine/spruce/aspen lasts me about 4 hours, maybe 5. A full firebox of ash and hard maple usually 8 to 9, when I put the big splits in about 10 to 11 hours. Endpoint usually stovetop around 350 F and about the same amount of coals left.
 
I recommended that Super forebox earlier as a great contender for long burning non-cat. So yeah, even with that great stove, best case with monster splits of hardwood was just barely overnight and falling below 400. I wonder how clean those yule logs were burning.

I too have burned both ultra low btu cottonwood and much higher (but not hickory high) doug fir. Very similar burntime but more heat from the doug fir.

We're all saying the same thing. Best case is just barely overnight and that might be just fine.
 
We're all saying the same thing. Best case is just barely overnight and that might be just fine.
For me i load 3 times a day and my stove never stops producing heat. It is not big enough to heat my second floor but it keeps my first floor comfortably around 70 all day long the entire winter my first floor is 110 yrs old 1200 squ ft with original windows and doors. And i never use big splits i pack it full of small ones that works better in my stove.
 
I agree with that entirely in order to get long burns with non cat you need a larger fire box which means more heat so they don't work well for small spaces. Most of the time when i wake up in the morning i still have flames not just coals as long as i am burning ash or better

That's what I want and don't care what it takes to get it. What kind of stove do you burn?
 
That's what I want and don't care what it takes to get it. What kind of stove do you burn?
If you want long burn times with out making to much heat then yes you need to look at cat stoves. I have a cawley lemay 600. It is a 40 year old stove one of the early clean burn designs. Like i said it is far from the biggest and best and i can easily get 8+ hours. For me at least wood species makes a huge difference. If i burn hemlock or pine i am getting 6 hours or so cherry gets me a good coal bed at 8 hours. With oak i am still making heat in the morning and hickory or locust i am still making heat at 9 or 10 hours. That is unless it is single digits outside then i burn a bit harder and go through a load faster.
 
From the time it starts putting off usable heat until it gives out. In my case below 300 degrees

As bholler said, a cat stove would probably be ideal. If that is not in the budget, I would take a look at the PE Super and based on the good reviews the Jotul F55 is getting, the F45 seems like a good candidate, too. The new Englander Madison will be cheaper, has a firebox of 2.4 cu ft and should therefore give you longer burn times but it may get a bit warm early in the burn. A factor will also be wood species, split size, loading procedure, and operation of the stove.
 
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