Need some help getting started (or keep going actually)

[Soon2BWarm]

Hello All,
I just purchased an Osburn 2400 Wood Burning Insert and had it installed by my local Fireplace store. I am having trouble getting my fire to stay lit with the door closed. With the door open, I am able to light a small fire using kindling and then catch larger pieces of dried oak. The fire burns beautifully with the door open and if I leave the door slightly cracked, the fire burns beautifully. The 6 inch liner seems to draw well. When I close the door, the fire slowly burns out and dies completely. I have the baffle fully open, as the instructions state, but I don’t feel that it is getting adequate air intake. My question is, “where should the air be drawing from inside the firebox?†I see what looks like an air vent in the center front of the firebox. I have cleaned the ashes from this area and still do not think I am getting air flow. I also took a straw and blew air into this area, attempting to blow anything free that might be stopping it up. Is there somewhere I can look to make sure that the baffles are opening?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I’ve put a call into Osburn, sent an e-mail, and tried contacting the on-line store that I purchased it from but am not having much luck getting any answers. I am excited about getting this stove going.
Thanks,

 

[BrotherBart]

Look through the links in this "stickey" thread for lots of good information on exactly that situation.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/65174/

 

[blacktail]

Not to be a smart arse, and I don't know anything about that model stove, but are you sure of which way is open and closed on your air control? Moving a control up or in may be wide open on one stove while that same position is closed on another stove.

 

[Soon2BWarm]

Lots of good info on those links. Thanks.
Still looking for specific area where air comes into firebox.

Yes, I not only read the manual to see which way was "Open", but I also experimented to see if I moved it completely the other direction if it might work. Thought perhaps it was installed backwards, but it seems to perform better when open as described in the owner's manual.

 

[Soon2BWarm]

I just did some more testing with the baffles. It appears that the rod that is used to open and close the baffles is not connected to anything. I get no significant change in air-flow as I open or close this baffle. Should the unit arrived with the baffle connected, or should the installers have connected it? I'm not sure who to contact or what to do.
Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[begreen]

Welcome to the forum. The air intake control, (lower right) absolutely should be connected and functioning from the factory. It sounds like it may be working, but it's possible that the oak wood is not really dry. If so, the fire is going to be balky. Try mixing in some 2x4 cut offs with it to see if that make a more responsive fire. If not, you should contact your dealer first if there is an issue.

 

[DexterDay]

How long has your "dried Oak" been drying? Or when was it Cut/Split/Stacked?

Oak takes a little time to properly season. As BG said, try some scrap cut-offs or some Eco-Bricks or Blocks. This will give yoi an immediate answer to whether the air control works? Or the wood is less than desirable.

Lots of Great info and Great people here. You have come to the right place for help.

 

[rwhite]

Guess I'll start the questions out since someone will want to know:
How tall is the chimney?
Is the liner insulated?
Is the chimney interior or exterior (outside wall)

 

[Soon2BWarm]

Answers to questions:
1) I purchased the wood three weeks ago. It was cut from downed oak and I was told that it was a year old. I also tried some oak that I cut myself about 18 months ago. The wood has been covered with a tarp and does not sizzle or create moisture at the ends when I burn, but I wouldn't bet any money that it is truely seasoned, because I am too new at this to know.
2) Chimney is 25 ft tall. I purchased a 6" stainless liner kit. Also purchased a "damper sealer kit" for bottom of chimney. Fireplace is on exterior wall.

I will buy some wood to test it with, as you suggested.

Also, it was a big help to find out that the damper should have come connected, because that let's me know who to contact with that question. I'll post my results when I try the burn with some good test wood.
Thanks to everyone!

 

[begreen]

In addition to the wood you may be fighting fickle outside temps. Draft is going to be poorer at the current 61F, than it will be tonight at 36F. Add some construction cutoffs to your fire to perk it up if it is hard starting.

For some wood burning pointers, you might also like to watch the bottom, instructive video - "Efficient Wood Stove Operation" on this site: http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html

 

[Lumber-Jack]

I have always like the suggestion that people in this forum give to people who have trouble burning and/or questionable wood, and that is to buy some of those manufactured firewood logs (or bricks) or a bundle of kiln dried firewood, and try burning them. Of course for the price of a pack of those you could also buy a moisture meter and test your wood to see just exactly what the moisture content of your wood really is.

 

[rwhite]

I think you have the perfect storm of things wrong here. I have the Osburn 1600 and it is a finicky stove in so much that it doesn't like wet wood or a clean fire box. Even with dry wood when I clean my fire box it's a bit finicky for a day or two. No way this thing is starting on wet wood. Even with a good bed of coals if I throw a less than perfect piece in there I have to run the primaries full open. In most of my reading folks report 2 or more years for oak to season on the eastern US. I know maple takes a full year out here where we have no humidity to speak of.