Need Recommendation if I Replace My Blaze King

[Diabel]

Is the chimney cap easily reachable? If yes you could experiment with conventional chimney cap.

The leak is still perplexing…..if the water came via the pipe then there should be a visible stain coming from it. Also, if it was water, why is it pooling around the probe hole ….

 

[Parallax]

It was redesigned to use a cat. The installing of the cat would of removed some areas for burn tubes. Burn tubes are effective. Removing the cat does not replace the burn tubes that aren’t there anymore. As in, they didn’t just slap a cat on top of the firebox. It was designed for it. The difference in efficiency between burn tubes and cats isn’t that large but removing the cat doesn’t make it a tube stove.

Thank you. I appreciate your sharing this info. If that's the case, I'm not going to get this stove. I don't want the hassles of another cat stove given my draw issues.

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

Why not?

And on the draw issue, how would one go about fixing it short of cutting down trees?

You could always lengthen the top of the chimney, there are draw hats/caps as well, your situation is one a well experienced chimney sweep or tech should definitely take a look at. It is near impossible to diagnose such problems in a forum as too many factors and correct information are required and not to mention a slew of unknown variables. Putting a measurement meter where accessible and obtaining proper draw measurements would be the first step to start with.

 

[Parallax]

Is the chimney cap easily reachable? If yes you could experiment with conventional chimney cap.

The leak is still perplexing…..if the water came via the pipe then there should be a visible stain coming from it. Also, if it was water, why is it pooling around the probe hole ….

Would require two guys on the roof to remove the stays and bolts, then take down the top two sections together with the cap. I've thought out taking this on with a buddy whose good with this sort of thing. But I'm not good at standing on steep roofs anymore (at 58). My wife tells me not to try, that it's not worth it. It's been a few years since I've been on the roof and I resolved not to do it again. Pulling down a large section of pipe would be hard. I think I need to bring in professionals to fix it.

 

[Parallax]

You could always lengthen the top of the chimney, there are draw hats/caps as well, your situation is one a well experienced chimney sweep or tech should definitely take a look at. It is near impossible to diagnose such problems in a forum as too many factors and correct information are required and not to mention a slew of unknown variables. Putting a measurement meter where accessible and obtaining proper draw measurements would be the first step to start with.

Years ago, the Blaze King people coached my incompetent dealer on taking those draw readings. Supposedly it came up as good enough. Not great but in a range considered acceptable for the Ashford. It works as long as the seal is 100% perfect. Except maybe when the weather is warmer and the wind starts to blow. Running exhaust fans at those times is not a good idea, as it tends to draw negative pressure into the home, as well sealed as modern homes are.

 

[stoveliker]

Given that you have an issue with the system (chimney, draft) and want a stove that's proven (given current experience), I think the only solution is to wait until the stove you want (aesthetically) has some years under their belt. Otherwise you run again the risk that something goes wrong, but you don't know whether it's a stove issue or a chimney issue. And then have a draft measurement re-done at that time (possibly with the Ashford still hooked up, as you want this data before signing the dotted line..).

I.e. I'd not introduce a new uncertainty in a system (chimney) that's already suspect/borderline.

I understand that's disappointing, but I'm afraid the puzzles (and frustration) would otherwise just continue.

 

[Parallax]

Given that you have an issue with the system (chimney, draft) and want a stove that's proven (given current experience), I think the only solution is to wait until the stove you want (aesthetically) has some years under their belt. Otherwise you run again the risk that something goes wrong, but you don't know whether it's a stove issue or a chimney issue. And then have a draft measurement re-done at that time (possibly with the Ashford still hooked up, as you want this data before signing the dotted line..).

I.e. I'd not introduce a new uncertainty in a system (chimney) that's already suspect/borderline.

I understand that's disappointing, but I'm afraid the puzzles (and frustration) would otherwise just continue.

Good points all around. I think the Ashford will soon be gone as I'm negotiating a settlement with Blaze King. Their dealer didn't know what he was doing and the stove leaked for the first year. When we settle this, they're going to take the stove. So I may have nothing in place for a while. But that's alright; will provide a clean slate. Will need to cover the opening on the stove pipe until another stove is in place.

 

[Diabel]

will provide a clean slate.

Read @stoveliker reply again.

 

[Parallax]

Read @stoveliker reply again.

I understand that in an ideal world I'd have the Ashford to test on. I don't think I'll have it much longer so that won't be an option.

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

Parallax you really do need to get someone who is competent to obtain some readings and this before you purchase another stove. Personally I believe until that is done it is a waste of time and effort to proceed .

 

[Diabel]

Parallax you really do need to get someone who is competent to obtain some readings and this before you purchase another stove. Personally I believe until that is done it is a waste of time and effort to proceed .

^^^^^ 100% agree

 

[Parallax]

Thanks guys. Will talk to the chimney sweep I use. He seems like he might be the guy to do it.

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

Thanks guys. Will talk to the chimney sweep I use. He seems like he might be the guy to do it.

I believe that the best recommendation anyone can give you is to locate an experienced Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) technician / sweep discuss your problem with him and determine if he feels a location service call is warranted, I am convinced even over the phone his insight would be well worth it. These guys and we have a few who participate here have seen an incredible amount of problems they have learned from.

 

[Parallax]

I believe that the best recommendation anyone can give you is to locate an experienced Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) technician / sweep discuss your problem with him and determine if he feels a location service call is warranted, I am convinced even over the phone his insight would be well worth it. These guys and we have a few who participate here have seen an incredible amount of problems they have learned from.

Thank you.

 

[Parallax]

What would you fellas think of a Jotul F500 for my home? Remember, we're wanting to get away from a cat stove. My wife insists on brown enamel. We have 2800 square feet but are just supplementing a mini-split heat exchange and only when it gets very cold out. So far, it looks like the Alderwood T5 is the best bet but someone's selling a used F500 that they claim is almost new. If I could get it for $2,000, the price would seem good and there would be no problem with having to wait months for a stove.

Is the F500 a reliable stove? Does it run well, like the T5? Does it have similar output?

 

[Parallax]

What would you fellas think of a Jotul F500 for my home? Remember, we're wanting to get away from a cat stove. My wife insists on brown enamel. We have 2800 square feet but are just supplementing a mini-split heat exchange and only when it gets very cold out. So far, it looks like the Alderwood T5 is the best bet but someone's selling a used F500 that they claim is almost new. If I could get it for $2,000, the price would seem good and there would be no problem with having to wait months for a stove.

Is the F500 a reliable stove? Does it run well, like the T5? Does it have similar output?

Having written all of that, never mind. Got hold of the owner. The thing is from 2009. Way too old in my opinion. Too much could be wrong with it.

 

[webby3650]

they didn’t just slap a cat on top of the firebox

Well, they kinda did.. I know they did some R&D, but it was rushed I feel. They added 2 cats, 1 on each side of the flue collar. It’s to clean up the exhaust, not heat your home better. I just went to one we installed in the fall. It’s been in operation since November 15, both cats were completely clogged with fly ash! The Heritage is even worse, both cats are directly below the flue collar sitting vertically, all the crap from the flue settles on the cats surface.
As for the Jotul 500. We’ve got a few out there but have backed off on installing them for now. 1 I’ve had the replace the entire baffle assembly and cat after the first season of use. Others have had overfire issues, as well as our display. It’s uncontrollable at times.

 

[webby3650]

Do you have any more pictures of your chimney? I don’t recognize that cap. What brand is it?

 

[Parallax]

Do you have any more pictures of your chimney? I don’t recognize that cap. What brand is it?

I've no idea. Someone would have to take the top two sections of the pipe down to get access to it. I have a feeling it's likely the source of the problem.

Webby, are you one of the guys who suggested the Alderlea T5 for my home? Is that a stove with which you're familiar? Sorry if you've already said. It's hard to keep track of who said what.

 

[webby3650]

I've no idea. Someone would have to take the top two sections of the pipe down to get access to it. I have a feeling it's likely the source of the problem.

Webby, are you one of the guys who suggested the Alderlea T5 for my home? Is that a stove with which you're familiar? Sorry if you've already said. It's hard to keep track of who said what.

Surely you’ve got a receipt from the install that says the brand?
I didn’t recommend the t-5. We don’t carry PE, nice stuff though. I’m very familiar with BK,
Jotul and Hearthstone though.

 

[Parallax]

Surely you’ve got a receipt from the install that says the brand?
I didn’t recommend the t-5. We don’t carry PE, nice stuff though. I’m very familiar with BK and Hearthstone though.

I'm looking at the invoices and they don't show the pipe brand or the cap. Plus, I think at some point they switched the cap when they were trying to address the poor draw.

 

[webby3650]

I'm looking at the invoices and they don't show the pipe brand or the cap. Plus, I think at some point they switched the cap when they were trying to address the poor draw.

Can you get a picture of what you’ve got from the roof up?

 

[Parallax]

Can you get a picture of what you’ve got from the roof up?

Sure. I'll take another photo tomorrow morning and post it. Thanks for taking the time to try to help me.

 

[Todd]

Well, they kinda did.. I know they did some R&D, but it was rushed I feel. They added 2 cats, 1 on each side of the flue collar. It’s to clean up the exhaust, not heat your home better. I just went to one we installed in the fall. It’s been in operation since November 15, both cats were completely clogged with fly ash! The Heritage is even worse, both cats are directly below the flue collar sitting vertically, all the crap from the flue settles on the cats surface.
As for the Jotul 500. We’ve got a few out there but have backed off on installing them for now. 1 I’ve had the replace the entire baffle assembly and cat after the first season of use. Others have had overfire issues, as well as our display. It’s uncontrollable at times.

What do you think the uncontrollable issue is on the new F500? This keeps coming up here and there looks to be some success plugging the two unregulated primary air holes in the ash pan housing.

 

[Parallax]

Can you get a picture of what you’ve got from the roof up?

Attached are those photos. Thanks for your interest and willingness to look at this.