Yes that is for double wall pipe in open air. I am talking about the part where it goes through that wall. There you need 12" of solid masonry between the interface of your crock and any combustibles. You don't have that so the cheapest and easiest way to fix the issue is to put a piece of 7" class a chimney in the wall to serve as a crock. You can then pass the 6" tee snout through it to hook to the liner.these adapters for masonry chimney says 6" clearance to ceiling and or combustables, which I have. So that doesn't answer my question on how to properly use this adapter
Ok, the option Bholler is talking about is this type of pipe, remove the crock and morter this in? then go from this pipe to double wall?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FQ59KRS/?tag=hearthamazon-20
Yes that is for double wall pipe in open air. I am talking about the part where it goes through that wall. There you need 12" of solid masonry between the interface of your crock and any combustibles. You don't have that so the cheapest and easiest way to fix the issue is to put a piece of 7" class a chimney in the wall to serve as a crock. You can then pass the 6" tee snout through it to hook to the liner.
Double wall connector pipe cannot pass through a wall. And I would not connect to the class a pipe I would use 7" so you can pass through it with the tee snout that connects to your liner. Or are you not installing a liner now? If not how will you address the missing clay liners?Ok, I can actually cut around the crock and have at least 6" of clearance around the whole thing. Are you able to link me the piece I need to replace the crock with? and how do I connect the double wall pipe going from the stove to the Class A pipe being used instead of the crock?
Double wall connector pipe cannot pass through a wall. And I would not connect to the class a pipe I would use 7" so you can pass through it with the tee snout that connects to your liner. Or are you not installing a liner now? If not how will you address the missing clay liners?
Ok then that complicates things. If you run 6" class a through the wall it won't work when you do put in a liner. But running 7" through the wall and reducing down won't work because you don't have the nessecary clearance to the ceiling if you use larger pipe. I guess use 6" for now and use the adapter from that chimney manufacturer to switch to double wall connectorCan't afford the steel liner right now, I was going to lower 2 of the clay liners down with refractory cement on the joints for the time being. i'm missing about 4'
So this will be my new crock? and just buy duravent double wall pipe going from stove to it?Ok then that complicates things. If you run 6" class a through the wall it won't work when you do put in a liner. But running 7" through the wall and reducing down won't work because you don't have the nessecary clearance to the ceiling if you use larger pipe. I guess use 6" for now and use the adapter from that chimney manufacturer to switch to double wall connector
YesSo this will be my new crock? and just buy duravent double wall pipe going from stove to it?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CFMCNPA/?tag=hearthamazon-20
I don't work with duravent products so I really don't know. You will need at least one telescoping section though because you can't cut that pipe to length.Would these be the correct parts/piece together?
Do I need another adapter for the top portion of the stove itself?
Thanks for all the help, the single-wall pipe is straight forward and easy but this double wall stuff has many different adapters etc
I can't answer what length is needed through the wall 12" would probably do. But no sleeve is needed it will be mortared into a block wall.Question - how thick a wall will this be going thru to hit the masonry chimney? Would a 12" section of class work? And secondly, is there going to be a sleeve needed to maintain 2" clearance to combustibles from the class A?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E7P0MW/?tag=hearthamazon-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UKJB2A/?tag=hearthamazon-20
OK, by the picture it looked like it was going through a conventional stud wall, but I haven't been following this thread and missed that detail buried in previous comments.I can't answer what length is needed through the wall 12" would probably do. But no sleeve is needed it will be mortared into a block wall.
It is in the basement. I am pretty sure but now I am second guessing thatOK, by the picture it looked like it was going through a conventional stud wall, but I haven't been following this thread and missed that detail buried in previous comments.
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The wall it is passing through is all non-combustible correct? If not I was off base this entire time and you need a different solutionWell what name brand do you recommend
Would you mind if I merged the two threads?
Np, this room was actually a porch that was enclosed at some point. It looks like I can cut around the inside wall and expose the cinder blocks the clay crock is coming out of. 6" is minimum clearance i'll have from all combustables
That is a critical piece of information. Double-wall stove pipe is for interior use only. It can not pass thru a wall.No, this room was actually a porch that was enclosed at some point. It looks like I can cut around the inside wall and expose the cinder blocks the clay crock is coming out of. 6" is minimum clearance i'll have from all combustables
That is a critical piece of information. Double-wall stove pipe is for interior use only. It can not pass thru a wall.
This is what is required to pass thru a combustible wall. (standard stud framing)
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/looking-for-an-answer.172234/#post-2308775
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