Its a class a thimble not sure if its masonry..im going thru vinyl house no concrete etc..decided to strip the black hearth looked to "guinea mansion"...lol im italian btw
Need help from wood stove folks
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Its a class a thimble not sure if its masonry..im going thru vinyl house no concrete etc..decided to strip the black hearth looked to "guinea mansion"...lol im italian btw
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Alpine1
Feeling the Heat
Ok how are you going to meet the re we uired clearances To combustibles from the stove with that hearth? Are either of your stoves listed? If so we hat are the clearances noted on the ul tag? If there is no ul tag the stove must be 36" from any combustible material.
Here is an example of what you're asking. Triple wall class A Chimney used in an A frame home with exceptionally high ceiling over the stove stays much hotter inside than double wall connector pipe. It can be done, but is cost prohibitive.
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8 inch Triple wall Dura-Vent with 10 inch outside diameter.This pic was taken to show what NOT to do for rear clearance. This metal shield is bolted directly to an outside wall and the connector pipe would have been too close for double wall pipe to the peak. The support box was already installed too close to the wall, so a prior owner installed class A Chimney all the way down to stove. (A Grandma Bear designed for use on a non-combustible hearth) The stove should have been moved out into the room with a non-combustible heat shield spaced 1 inch from the wall behind the stove with 12 inches clearance to the wall. Connector pipe should have been double wall to two 45* els under support box to achieve the 6 inch clearance necessary for double wall pipe.
In the 30 years this guy has lived next to me, I only remember red flashing lights ONCE at his home a couple years ago. It was probably time to clean his chimney last winter, so I expect the fire company to do their job again soon.
Of course I told him when the pipe was shot to move the support box so the stove could be moved farther into the room away from the wall, but that's too much work. So I suggested removing the combustible wall behind stove and blocking it up from foundation for a non-combustible wall behind stove. That's too much work too. I'm taking bets on when that wall behind stove will ignite. The structure was built in 1978 and that stove has been the primary heat source ever since.
Silly question...on interior wall do i cut out 6" hole? Or entire size of thimble with just enough to anchor it? I know i will need 2 cross members so all 4 sides are anchored to studs?
Download and follow the thimble directions. Chimney pipe is what will be going through the wall. It needs 2" clearance all around. If you buy double-wall, class A chimney pipe that means it will be 8" OD, add the clearance + 4" (2" each side) for a 12" hole through the wall.
Follow the directions. I am still pretty concerned about clearances from the stove though. Are your stoves have ul tags?
Stove will be about 15 inches from wall...im using vermont castings stove instead of that much longer one in first pucture...plus a heat shield will be behind it...
Does that vc stove have a ul tag on the back? If so what clearances does it call for? What kind of heat sheild? And how far is it from the wood frame?
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
The whole reason why so many people are bringing up "does the stove have a ul tag" is because if theres a fire the insurance adjuster will be looking for it as part of the investigation and if the stove doesn't have it and the stove isn't at the standard nfpa non listed clearance of 36" then the insurance company can deny the claim leaving you high and dry, also without a tag who's to say its an actual brand name stove and not a unregulated copy.
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