Did anybody say Poulan WildThing with Nitrous yet?
I would have but its under a cord and already into splits...
Did anybody say Poulan WildThing with Nitrous yet?
I am planning on building some sort of stand out of 2x4s that will hold a bunch of splits to be cut all once, using the 2x4s as guides for the saw. I was assuming I could make it about 4 feet high, but how wide? Presumably this is related to the saw length but I'm not sure exactly how.
But could I expect it to slice though a 4 foot high stack of splits set up in rack? Or would it really be for just cutting one or two splits at a time?
Also, do I need the full set of protective gear for using an electric chainsaw? Or would safety goggles and gloves suffice?
Congratulations. I'm always in favor of electric rather than gas equipment whenever practical. Both for pragmatic and idealistic reasons.Success!
Just remember that chaps are not near as effective with an electric saw.
Interesting. Why? I've not tested the effectiveness of my chaps with either, but the one electric I keep as a loaner saw (old Craftsman) has a clutch that slips perhaps more easily than any of my gas saws.
Wow! That's a lot of wood on a small piece of property. You'll need to get creative with your stacking.
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I am planning on building some sort of stand out of 2x4s that will hold a bunch of splits to be cut all once, using the 2x4s as guides for the saw. I was assuming I could make it about 4 feet high, but how wide? Presumably this is related to the saw length but I'm not sure exactly how.
Regarding the idea of refusing the wood if too long: this is kind of a dilemma. I paid $200 for a cord which is a good price around here (I've been watching ads for a while and have called a lot of people). Nearly all wood around here (Boston area) seems to be cut 16-18 (or that's what they call it). A couple people offered to do a 'custom' job for $500/cord. So I think buying wood that's too long and cutting it down myself may just be what I'm stuck with.
And I think that cutting down the better part of a cord one split at a time with a chop saw would be a bit too tedious.
I tried the chop saw idea last year. Turned out badly for the chop saw and narrow miss for my handI second the chop saw idea. For as little as you need to use it a it'll be a big hassle to make sure a chainsaw is stored properly and the carb doesn't gum up.
If you want to go the chainsaw route get an electric one. Quiet, easy to store, no maintenance, and they'll work everytime you need one. Plus they're cheap on CL, even new ones are cheap if you want to go that route
Chop saw maybe the way to go.
I'm new to wood burning and have never operated a chainsaw in my life. I live on a small suburban lot and don't plan on felling any trees or getting into wood scrounging, as I don't own a truck. I plan on burning only about a cord a year. But the cord I had delivered last weekend (CL ad), despite being advertised as 14-16" length, was more like 17-19". And my tiny insert won't take anything over 17" (as in, 17 1/4 will not fit). So I'm guessing the only solution is a chainsaw. But I don't know where to start (length, brand, etc.) (And no, I don't know a single person who owns a chainsaw and could lend it to me). We have a local power equipment store where I have bought my weed trimmer, mower, snow blower etc and they are a Stihl dealer. The other option would be to rent a saw once or twice a year: I can get a 16" saw (brand unknown) at $50/day from the local tool rental place. Presumably I need to buy the safety gear in any case as the tool rental place doesn't provide it.
Thanks for any advice.
Jon
I have cut many cords of 2"-4" limbs and small tree trunks with my chop saw. It is fast and quiet
Re cutting wood is not particularly safe and is no way for a novice to learn, IMO, so. . .
1) Start by putting an ad in CL for the over-length wood and get as much of your $$ as possible
2) Consider installing a pellet stove in place of your current insert
I disagree. I learned chainsaw use as a grade-schooler, by cutting to finished length the double- and triple-length rounds dad brought home from the woods. We had a sawbuck for the purpose, and I think it was some of the safer cutting I've ever done. Perhaps, if cutting loose splits on the ground, you're right... but in a rack or a sawbuck, I think it can be a plenty safe way to learn.
What a great idea, will it go through red oak with ease?Chop saw maybe the way to go.
That's what I use to reduce all those small poles & branches etc. to usuable lengths.Normally 1-2 p/u loads per year.Delta 10" cast iron miter saw, had it almost 25 yrs old now.40 tooth carbide tipped blade w/ 1/8" kerf,cuts faster than any chainsaw.
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