Need a chainsaw? Clueless.

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I am planning on building some sort of stand out of 2x4s that will hold a bunch of splits to be cut all once, using the 2x4s as guides for the saw. I was assuming I could make it about 4 feet high, but how wide? Presumably this is related to the saw length but I'm not sure exactly how.

You mean something like this? ;) You're on the right track with the sawbuck idea, especially if you have a lot of trimming to do at once. If you only needed to trim a few splits on occasion, I'd be on board with the miter saw idea.

But could I expect it to slice though a 4 foot high stack of splits set up in rack? Or would it really be for just cutting one or two splits at a time?

See above link, note that I was running a 20" bar on that saw and that sawbuck is roughly 16" wide. So you would need a big electric saw (they make them, but they are $$) or you'd have to narrow the rack considerably.

Also, do I need the full set of protective gear for using an electric chainsaw? Or would safety goggles and gloves suffice?

Electric chainsaws, glasses/goggles, gloves, and boots should be fine. Chaps are a must for gas-powered saws but they will NOT stop an electric. Too much torque from the electrics, even small ones. Also an electric will usually stop the chain immediately after you release the trigger so spin-down contact (the #1 way to injure yourself with a gas saw) risk is minimal.

If you already have a gas-powered trimmer, blower, etc., adding a small gas-powered saw probably won't be a problem. You never know, all of a sudden you might find the idea of buying your wood replusive and start scrounging up your own. ;)
 
Take a look at these CL ads. I have two of these saws (poulan version). Great beginner saws and cheap!
(broken link removed to http://providence.craigslist.org/grd/3804534028.html)
(broken link removed to http://providence.craigslist.org/grd/3806234949.html)
 
This came in today's Harbor Freight email:
[Hearth.com] Need a chainsaw?  Clueless.
[Hearth.com] Need a chainsaw?  Clueless.

I don't know anything about this unit other than what was in the ad.
 
I ordered an Earthwise 16" electric saw ($70). We'll see how it goes from here. At some point I may also pick up a mitre saw as well; every so often I have a project where I wish I had one.
 
Suburban infrequent use = electric chainsaw. I used one of these as a kid, under similar circumstances. No engine / fuel mix / carb problems to worry about.

Edit: just read rest of thread, and learned the OP already went that way! Good move. Pick up a spare chain, and you're all set to work. If buying PPE, consider chaps your first move. Helmets are nice, but there are far more leg contact injuries than head contact injuries.
 
Just remember that chaps are not near as effective with an electric saw.
 
Just remember that chaps are not near as effective with an electric saw.

Interesting. Why? I've not tested the effectiveness of my chaps with either, but the one electric I keep as a loaner saw (old Craftsman) has a clutch that slips perhaps more easily than any of my gas saws.
 
Several discussions over the years and most chaps come with a warning about electric saws. Most don't have a clutch and have a ton of torque. Gas saws have more speed but electric more torque. And the torque curve is flat right down to when it stops.
 
Interesting. Why? I've not tested the effectiveness of my chaps with either, but the one electric I keep as a loaner saw (old Craftsman) has a clutch that slips perhaps more easily than any of my gas saws.

Torque. It takes a LOT more to stop an electric saw compared to a gas engine of equivalent HP output.
 
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I purchased an Earthwise 16" saw this week after my other electric saw died. I find them easier for junking up the wood and quieter for the neighbours. Being on a 50' x 100' lot in town with 16 cord of wood in the backyard draws enough attention as it is.:)
 
Being on a 50' x 100' lot in town with 16 cord of wood in the backyard draws enough attention as it is.:)

Wow! That's a lot of wood on a small piece of property. You'll need to get creative with your stacking.

[Hearth.com] Need a chainsaw?  Clueless.
[Hearth.com] Need a chainsaw?  Clueless.[Hearth.com] Need a chainsaw?  Clueless.
 
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I am planning on building some sort of stand out of 2x4s that will hold a bunch of splits to be cut all once, using the 2x4s as guides for the saw. I was assuming I could make it about 4 feet high, but how wide? Presumably this is related to the saw length but I'm not sure exactly how.

Regarding the idea of refusing the wood if too long: this is kind of a dilemma. I paid $200 for a cord which is a good price around here (I've been watching ads for a while and have called a lot of people). Nearly all wood around here (Boston area) seems to be cut 16-18 (or that's what they call it). A couple people offered to do a 'custom' job for $500/cord. So I think buying wood that's too long and cutting it down myself may just be what I'm stuck with.

And I think that cutting down the better part of a cord one split at a time with a chop saw would be a bit too tedious.
 
I second the chop saw idea. For as little as you need to use it a it'll be a big hassle to make sure a chainsaw is stored properly and the carb doesn't gum up.

If you want to go the chainsaw route get an electric one. Quiet, easy to store, no maintenance, and they'll work everytime you need one. Plus they're cheap on CL, even new ones are cheap if you want to go that route
I tried the chop saw idea last year. Turned out badly for the chop saw and narrow miss for my hand!!!
 
I'm new to wood burning and have never operated a chainsaw in my life. I live on a small suburban lot and don't plan on felling any trees or getting into wood scrounging, as I don't own a truck. I plan on burning only about a cord a year. But the cord I had delivered last weekend (CL ad), despite being advertised as 14-16" length, was more like 17-19". And my tiny insert won't take anything over 17" (as in, 17 1/4 will not fit). So I'm guessing the only solution is a chainsaw. But I don't know where to start (length, brand, etc.) (And no, I don't know a single person who owns a chainsaw and could lend it to me). We have a local power equipment store where I have bought my weed trimmer, mower, snow blower etc and they are a Stihl dealer. The other option would be to rent a saw once or twice a year: I can get a 16" saw (brand unknown) at $50/day from the local tool rental place. Presumably I need to buy the safety gear in any case as the tool rental place doesn't provide it.

Thanks for any advice.

Jon

Re cutting wood is not particularly safe and is no way for a novice to learn, IMO, so. . .

1) Start by putting an ad in CL for the over-length wood and get as much of your $$ as possible

2) Consider installing a pellet stove in place of your current insert
 
I have cut many cords of 2"-4" limbs and small tree trunks with my chop saw. It is fast and quiet

That's what I use to reduce all those small poles & branches etc. to usuable lengths.Normally 1-2 p/u loads per year.Delta 10" cast iron miter saw, had it almost 25 yrs old now.40 tooth carbide tipped blade w/ 1/8" kerf,cuts faster than any chainsaw.
 
Re cutting wood is not particularly safe and is no way for a novice to learn, IMO, so. . .

1) Start by putting an ad in CL for the over-length wood and get as much of your $$ as possible

2) Consider installing a pellet stove in place of your current insert

I disagree. I learned chainsaw use as a grade-schooler, by cutting to finished length the double- and triple-length rounds dad brought home from the woods. We had a sawbuck for the purpose, and I think it was some of the safer cutting I've ever done. Perhaps, if cutting loose splits on the ground, you're right... but in a rack or a sawbuck, I think it can be a plenty safe way to learn.
 
I disagree. I learned chainsaw use as a grade-schooler, by cutting to finished length the double- and triple-length rounds dad brought home from the woods. We had a sawbuck for the purpose, and I think it was some of the safer cutting I've ever done. Perhaps, if cutting loose splits on the ground, you're right... but in a rack or a sawbuck, I think it can be a plenty safe way to learn.


Yeah. . . with a sawbuck I agree, but I didn't get a sawbuck vibe from the OP. In any case, seems like a lot of work/money for very little wood.
 
That's what I use to reduce all those small poles & branches etc. to usuable lengths.Normally 1-2 p/u loads per year.Delta 10" cast iron miter saw, had it almost 25 yrs old now.40 tooth carbide tipped blade w/ 1/8" kerf,cuts faster than any chainsaw.


I can knock out a truck load of small logs in about an hour. I put the saw on my tailgate and pull logs from the bed of the truck to the saw. I position the saw in a way that I can use tailgate support chain as my fence so that I can get consistent lengths of the logs. I have some logs in the truck ready to go so I can snap a picture and post how I do it. I use a 12" dewalt saw that will let me cut up to a 5" diameter log.
 
The absolute fastest way to trim splits and cut poles to length is an H-Frame sawbuck. I just loaded mine up last week with some 4-6ft poles for the first time. Within 2-3 minutes of it being loaded, I had dozens of rounds cut to length, ready to stack or split.

I have a video of me trimming splits with it. It is much faster than even a chop saw to process those in batches as well.

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