My second, Post your swing videos...

[akkamaan]

I love to through double bits trying to hit the bulls-eye. I have been thinking every since I moved from central California 11 years ago, up to this big-tree country, that I would get a big tournament target. 20-30 years ago I have competed a few times in casual local party-tournaments in Sweden, and it is such a great feeling when you hit a clean bulls-eye with the shaft pointing down.

What I understand, the double bit axe, was a pure cutting axe back in the old day. I was like having two axes in one. Maybe one was sharpened for tree cutting, and the other edge for nuts and limbs?

Yes I think any axe can be restored, but if it is an old antique, I would not do any more than polish and oil, and then hang it on the wall...

 

[Poindexter]

My sons and I aim for 6 oclock on the face of the piece to be split, near edge, on center, full throttle.

Like this:

 

[akkamaan]

My sons and I aim for 6 oclock on the face of the piece to be split, near edge, on center, full throttle.

Like this:

I love that picture, no video, but still full of swing... LOL

 

[Woody Stover]

When would you use a double bit axe? Having fun reading this thread and trying figure out how it applies to this old stuff I have here.

You can use the double-bitted axe on stuff that splits easy. For tougher splitting you might need a maul to plow through. The two on the right have round eyes and not as thick of wood so they break easier if you over-strike and the round hits the handle just below the head. That's probably what happened to the one with the electrical tape on it. I have an 8# with the round hole and I put a fiberglass handle on it. It worked for a while but is getting fatigued now. Handle bends just below the head when I dislodge it from a round when it's stuck. Just a question of time before it breaks. I guess I'll put another wood handle on it and try to avoid over-strikes, or maybe I can find a better fiberglass one that is more durable. The maul on the left has an elongated eye, and what looks like a wooden wedge in the top end of the handle. I haven't mastered how to keep the wooden handles from loosening. Maybe I'll cheat next time and use some epoxy as well as the wedge. A woman might be able to swing a 6# maul, but an 8# might be a little much. Are any of the heads marked with weights? I also like to taper the cutting edges so the maul has less tendency to bounce off when it doesn't penetrate the wood.

 

[akkamaan]

Here is a couple of images showing how penetration differs between a Fiskars and a 8 lbs maul...

Width of the edge, and side friction on flanks

Profile of head and edge


I made this little penetration comparison. I tried to swing both with the same speed, and of course, the maul would give you almost twice the impact energy, but it actually penetrated less deep.
I hit a 2x8 on the flat side, it split in 3 pieces after the second hit with the maul, image showing two of the pieces with the "wounds".
We can see that the maul makes a 3" wide cut, and the Fiskars a 2.5" wide


Looking at the cross section of the cut, we can see that the Fiskars penetrated appox 40% of the thick 1,5" board, and the maul approx 1/8" less, or approx 35%...
(I peeled off the wood piece between the two cuts)

 

[Applesister]

So is a Fiskars a cutting axe or a splitting axe?
Cause I hear you talking mauls and axes.

 

[akkamaan]

So is a Fiskars a cutting axe or a splitting axe?
Cause I hear you talking mauls and axes.

OK, an axe is a general term, so if to use terminology right, I should use the terms splitting axe and splitting maul....

This is a Fiskars cutting or chopping axe...

My 28" Fiskars Super Splitter #7854 is a splitting axe. The model is today replaced with Fiskars X25 splitting axe, which have a slightly wider edge and a slightly different flaring...
Give credit to grandpatractor at Arboristsite, I linked to his images, since I am not an owner of the X25 (yet).

Here is Fiskars current program for splitting...

 

[Applesister]

So the double bit axe is kind of an American thing of old? For cutting trees down with an axe.
And it was basically replaced by the chainsaw? So a real purist would also cut down trees with a cutting axe? And you guys on here split wood along the grain. With the grain. Cleaving, using mauls?
And a cutting axe, like a chainsaw is a crosscutting tool. For cutting wood across the grain?
I looked it up, that double bit axe...one edge has a narrow angle, the other a blunt angle.
If you arent throwing it at a target.
Ok...thanks guys
Back to the regularly scheduled program.

 

[Applesister]

Sorry about the deferred questions, I was just thinking that it might take a few days for people to gather/make an axe swinging video for this thread. So Im the student whos always raising their hand in class to ask questions.(I didnt say dumb)
Like how do I change the colors in my bar graph in my Excel spreadsheet?

 

[firefighterjake]

Double bit ax . . . also very useful if you're hoping to win the Paul Bunyan Look Alike Contest.

 

[drz1050]

double bit axes still have their uses. I can limb a small tree faster with a sharp axe than a chainsaw. Only takes one whack. They also make fine splitters if the wood is small-ish and straight grained. It's a lot easier to swing 3 lbs than 8.

 

[Corey]

Can these old axes be resurrected?

Yes, install a new handle and a new head, they should be ready to go! I have an old axe from my grandpa...still use it to this day. Three new handles and one new head, but that thing works great!

 

[Jags]

Yes, install a new handle and a new head, they should be ready to go! I have an old axe from my grandpa...still use it to this day. Three new handles and one new head, but that thing works great!

Hmmm...I see what you did there.....

 

[drz1050]

My favorite axe is an old one.. 1940s I believe. 3.5 lb Jersey head.
"They don't make them like they used to" rings pretty true in that regard.
Yes, there are still quality axes being made, but at a premium price point. The axes you can buy at hardware stores now are junk. Or you could find an old rusty head at a garage sale, clean it up, hang it, and you'll have something just as good for a fraction of the price.

Quality steel lasts a very long time.

 

[Lumber-Jack]

The wood we split generally requires a little more power behind the swing to split it than what I see you doing.

But on the subject of technique, people often mention the danger of the maul or axe swinging back and hitting their feet or shins, but I have found if you practice the technique of leaning into the handle as the maul strikes the round you virtually eliminate that danger. The idea is that instead of swinging a circular swing motion, you swing with more of an upside down J motion, with the curved arc over your head and then straight down, so that when the maul head impacts the round it is traveling straight down, not curving back towards your lower extremities. Especially important on a power swing.
This is the way I have always tried to swing and the method I taught my boys. None of us have ever had the maul swing through towards our feet or shins, ever. We've had a number of sideways glancing blows, but they always go off to the side, never back towards the feet.

 

[maple1]

The wood we split generally requires a little more power behind the swing to split it than what I see you doing.

But on the subject of technique, people often mention the danger of the maul or axe swinging back and hitting their feet or shins, but I have found if you practice the technique of leaning into the handle as the maul strikes the round you virtually eliminate that danger. The idea is that instead of swinging a circular swing motion, you swing with more of an upside down J motion, with the curved arc over your head and then straight down, so that when the maul head impacts the round it is traveling straight down, not curving back towards your lower extremities. Especially important on a power swing.
This is the way I have always tried to swing and the method I taught my boys. None of us have ever had the maul swing through towards our feet or shins, ever. We've had a number of sideways glancing blows, but they always go off to the side, never back towards the feet.

That is also the same result I get with a knee bend as the axe comes down.

 

[drz1050]

The wood we split generally requires a little more power behind the swing to split it than what I see you doing.

But on the subject of technique, people often mention the danger of the maul or axe swinging back and hitting their feet or shins, but I have found if you practice the technique of leaning into the handle as the maul strikes the round you virtually eliminate that danger. The idea is that instead of swinging a circular swing motion, you swing with more of an upside down J motion, with the curved arc over your head and then straight down, so that when the maul head impacts the round it is traveling straight down, not curving back towards your lower extremities. Especially important on a power swing.
This is the way I have always tried to swing and the method I taught my boys. None of us have ever had the maul swing through towards our feet or shins, ever. We've had a number of sideways glancing blows, but they always go off to the side, never back towards the feet.

This is what I was trying to say earlier... I think Mr Jack here worded it better.

I was splitting a 24"ish round of beech yesterday morning... I don't usually have to break out the wedges, but this one had three buried in it before it came apart.... I still have about 18' of that log to go. Might be about time to ask my neighbor if I can borrow the splitter.