My saw doesn't like 50:1

[Bigg_Redd]

What especially shocked me was how bad the "miracle synthetic oils" like Amsoil carbon up in just a few hours run time - and the synthetics make a hard carbon glaze thats harder to remove tahn the soft buildup from dino oil.

Hmmmm. . . that is the exact opposite of my 13+ years experience with 2 stroke engines in motorcycles.

 

[charly]

I've been running Amsoil in my saws for 15 years,,, never saw that carbon build up at all... 50:1... In fact I opened the muffler on my Stihl MS 360 after 5 years to clean the screen on the exhaust,, I could look right through the screen,,, no build up! Pulled the engine over and looked at the piston, rings and piston top,,same thing clean and no scoring.... I now run the amsoil Dominator racing 2 stroke oil... The guys who fly ultralights with Rotax engines said their motors stay free of carbon build up and the Dominator also has very good anti corrosion additives ...I cut about 10 cords of wood a year with my saw , so it has seen plenty of Amsoil.. I also run seafoam in every tank of mix as well.. 2 ounces to a gallon..

 

[jharkin]

Might be something about the nature of the test... They held each engine at a constant 6000rpm WOT for 6 hours.

 

[NE WOOD BURNER]

synythetic years ago was a learning curve as far as mixtures. I cant remember the ratio but I recall if you bought synthetic and mixed it to your manufacturers recomendation ratio. It would puke.

Have not used synthetic 2 stroke for my saws. Do you still mix synthetic at the same ratio as non synthetic?

 

[charly]

synythetic years ago was a learning curve as far as mixtures. I cant remember the ratio but I recall if you bought synthetic and mixed it to your manufacturers recomendation ratio. It would puke.

Have not used synthetic 2 stroke for my saws. Do you still mix synthetic at the same ratio as non synthetic?

You can run the Saber Professional Amsoil 2 stroke at 100:1.. 1.3 ounces to a gallon... I run my Stihl at 50:1 which is 2.6 ounces to a gallon..My Stihl MS 360 is over 10 years old , always ran Amsoil after one tank of dealer fuel... It has all the original fuel lines, carb parts , etc... Cut over 120 cords. Just have replaced a spark plug and air filter all that time... Starts and runs like the day I bought it.. I'd say Amsoil has proven itself to me.. Also run it in all my other Stihl equipment, leaf blower, string trimmer.. Stuff just always starts and runs with no issues... My weed whacker gets a 8 hour work out here on the farm at times..Starts right up every spring like I just put it away....Mixing ratios are right on the bottles of Amsoil... All my mix gets Seafoam religiously. 2 ounces to a gallon...

 

[Ashful]

One problem with running such low ratios is that measurement accuracy becomes critical. At 1.3 oz./gallon, an error of 0.3 ounce is huge. Now remember that a standard shot glasses are 1.0 or 1.5 oz. The amount of oil left clinging to the sides of your measurement container begin to matter.

If you're going to mix a gallon at a time at 100:1, you'd better be using a syringe or other accurate measurement device for metering your oil.

 

[lukem]

One problem with running such low ratios is that measurement accuracy becomes critical. At 1.3 oz./gallon, an error of 0.3 ounce is huge. Now remember that a standard shot glasses are 1.0 or 1.5 oz. The amount of oil left clinging to the sides of your measurement container begin to matter.

If you're going to mix a gallon at a time at 100:1, you'd better be using a syringe or other accurate measurement device for metering your oil.

I always rinse the little bottle of oil with gas and dump it in the can.

 

[Ashful]

I always rinse the little bottle of oil with gas and dump it in the can.

Good practice, but I still don't believe you can control your pour into that bottle (or even see with your eye), +/- 0.1 oz. Not an issue if you're using pre-metered bottles, though.

 

[lukem]

Good practice, but I still don't believe you can control your pour into that bottle (or even see with your eye), +/- 0.1 oz. Not an issue if you're using pre-metered bottles, though.

Agree....but just one of the weird things that makes me feel better.

 

[NE WOOD BURNER]

I was taught by the dealer with my first chain saw (Pioneer). you mix in 5gallon quantities and transfer to 1 gallon containers for use. But then that was when fuel was fuel.

 

[DexterDay]

Any updates Donnie?? Have you gone back to 40:1? Had it retuned? Vac/pressure test it at the Dealer...

Just wonderin... Wanna make sure your happy and the saw runs as it should.

 

[charly]

I measure using a cup marked in ounces,,, 50:1 .. I never run 100:1 , but knowing I could and using the oil at 50:1 I know I have plenty of lube... Been running the same oil for 15 years.. Zero issues,, and I use my 2 ounces of sea foam to rinse the oil that's in the measuring cup.. I talk to an Amsoil rep that knew a guy that was running a 2 stroke racing outboard on a hydroplane,, for speed he ran the Amsoil at 150:1... Amsoil rep thought he was nuts,, the motor never heat seized... The Amsoil bottle says in big letters 100:1 on the bottle so they have to be pretty confident to display that..Reps say it's not an issue..

 

[charly]

I was taught by the dealer with my first chain saw (Pioneer). you mix in 5gallon quantities and transfer to 1 gallon containers for use. But then that was when fuel was fuel.

If I do 5 gallons I mix my total oil I'm going to use into one gallon first.. A lot easier to shake that gallon up good to mix the oil, then add the rest of the fuel to that mix and shake... I generally just mix a gallon..that goes pretty far..

 

[Bigg_Redd]

synythetic years ago was a learning curve as far as mixtures. I cant remember the ratio but I recall if you bought synthetic and mixed it to your manufacturers recomendation ratio. It would puke.

Have not used synthetic 2 stroke for my saws. Do you still mix synthetic at the same ratio as non synthetic?

Yes. 2 stroke or 4 stroke, all my gas burning tools get 40:1 synthetic.

 

[MasterMech]

One problem with running such low ratios is that measurement accuracy becomes critical. At 1.3 oz./gallon, an error of 0.3 ounce is huge. Now remember that a standard shot glasses are 1.0 or 1.5 oz. The amount of oil left clinging to the sides of your measurement container begin to matter.

If you're going to mix a gallon at a time at 100:1, you'd better be using a syringe or other accurate measurement device for metering your oil.

Amsoil packages Sabre Pro in 1.5 oz "pillow packs" (basically a plastic bag) which actually works out close to 85:1 if you get every last drop out of them. Rinsing those packs with gas is quite a bit more trouble than a 2.6 oz bottle like most premix oil comes in. So you get a mix that's somewhere between 85:1 and 100:1 unless you leave a lot of oil in the pack. When I was mixing out of 2.6 oz bottles, I always rinsed the bottle 2x with fresh gas to get as much oil out of it as I could.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/2-stroke/saber-professional/?code=ATPPK-EA

Worth montioning that for those of you that run Stihl's 4-Mix engine, that engine gets real happy running on a lean synthetic mix. Carbon build up is that engine's worst enemy (think of those itty bitty valves in there!) . Stihl's HP ultra is a great oil but honestly I like the Sabre Pro better at this point. Long term wear characteristics remain to be seen but after running a few different engines and re-tuning them, I'm a believer in the Sabre Pro as well. Of course AMSOIL says if you feel better running it at 50:1, you're more than welcome to do so as it won't hurt anything.

Also, if carbon build up is becoming an issue in your equipment, Stihl sells a "de-carbonizer" that works quite well and doesn't require disassembling the engine for cleaning.

 

[charly]

Amsoil packages Sabre Pro in 1.5 oz "pillow packs" (basically a plastic bag) which actually works out close to 85:1 if you get every last drop out of them. Rinsing those packs with gas is quite a bit more trouble than a 2.6 oz bottle like most premix oil comes in. So you get a mix that's somewhere between 85:1 and 100:1 unless you leave a lot of oil in the pack. When I was mixing out of 2.6 oz bottles, I always rinsed the bottle 2x with fresh gas to get as much oil out of it as I could.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/2-stroke/saber-professional/?code=ATPPK-EA

Worth montioning that for those of you that run Stihl's 4-Mix engine, that engine gets real happy running on a lean synthetic mix. Carbon build up is that engine's worst enemy (think of those itty bitty valves in there!) . Stihl's HP ultra is a great oil but honestly I like the Sabre Pro better at this point. Long term wear characteristics remain to be seen but after running a few different engines and re-tuning them, I'm a believer in the Sabre Pro as well. Of course AMSOIL says if you feel better running it at 50:1, you're more than welcome to do so as it won't hurt anything.

Also, if carbon build up is becoming an issue in your equipment, Stihl sells a "de-carbonizer" that works quite well and doesn't require disassembling the engine for cleaning.

I think running Seafoam in all my fuel mix has kept my carbon down. After 5 years or 50 plus cords of wood I opened the muffler on my MS 360 to check the screen , ring, piston top and cylinder.. I could shockingly after 5 years look through the screen and no carbon on the piston top... Ring and piston looked great,, no cylinder scoring.. I buy my Amsoil 2 stroke oil by the quart.. just use a small cup marked in ounces for measuring out paint accelerator...nice little cup... Measures up to 6 ounces so it's easy to read... Right now I'm switching to the Amsoil 2 stroke Dominator racing oil,,, the ultralight guys use to get a lot of carbon build up in their 2 stroke Rotax engines.. N numbered machines have a mandatory tear down on the engine... These guys noticed running the Dominator oil they had no carbon issues upon inspection.. Plus it has a really good anti corrosive package..