My room smells a little smokey ?

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GVA said:
iceman said:
everything is sealed except where the stove connect to the pipe but it is a very tight
i suppose that could be it but it has NEVER done that before but then again it was windy as heck this morning

Just read through again and saw this part here......^

you should get the 600* tape (at least) and cover this seam for additional safety.
Just an opinion here :red:


okay i will take the back off and tape it then put the back on again
 
HarryBack said:
another possibility...dirty igniter. With a dirty igniter, the pellets will fill the burn pot up, warming slowly, causing early pyrolysis of the pellets, but not ignition (lots of smoke in burn chamber)....this can ignite suddenly and explosively, causing the door gaskets, and all the other gaskets for that matter, to "puff" when the uncombusted gas combusts...all at once. Its scary if you dont expect it....sometimes you hear damper flutter just before it happens, sometimes not.



harry should i change the low draft switch? will that hurt it if its not needed?
 
iceman said:
HarryBack said:
another possibility...dirty igniter. With a dirty igniter, the pellets will fill the burn pot up, warming slowly, causing early pyrolysis of the pellets, but not ignition (lots of smoke in burn chamber)....this can ignite suddenly and explosively, causing the door gaskets, and all the other gaskets for that matter, to "puff" when the uncombusted gas combusts...all at once. Its scary if you dont expect it....sometimes you hear damper flutter just before it happens, sometimes not.


how do i clean the ignitor

The ignitor is under the burn pot, beind a plate held in place by two thumbscrews...loosen the thumbscrews, tak eoff the place, and clean all over inside...make sure the stove is cool first.
 
iceman said:
HarryBack said:
another possibility...dirty igniter. With a dirty igniter, the pellets will fill the burn pot up, warming slowly, causing early pyrolysis of the pellets, but not ignition (lots of smoke in burn chamber)....this can ignite suddenly and explosively, causing the door gaskets, and all the other gaskets for that matter, to "puff" when the uncombusted gas combusts...all at once. Its scary if you dont expect it....sometimes you hear damper flutter just before it happens, sometimes not.



harry should i change the low draft switch? will that hurt it if its not needed?

Low draft switch? Do you mean the vacuum switch in the guts of the unit (dont change it), or the hi/low distribution switch near the control board (wont matter- only controls the distribution fan)
 
HarryBack said:
iceman said:
HarryBack said:
another possibility...dirty igniter. With a dirty igniter, the pellets will fill the burn pot up, warming slowly, causing early pyrolysis of the pellets, but not ignition (lots of smoke in burn chamber)....this can ignite suddenly and explosively, causing the door gaskets, and all the other gaskets for that matter, to "puff" when the uncombusted gas combusts...all at once. Its scary if you dont expect it....sometimes you hear damper flutter just before it happens, sometimes not.


how do i clean the ignitor

The ignitor is under the burn pot, beind a plate held in place by two thumbscrews...loosen the thumbscrews, tak eoff the place, and clean all over inside...make sure the stove is cool first.



oh okay i thought there was something special to i just cleaned that part the other day
when i did a thourogh cleaning

can i try changing the draft button on it (switching it)
and does it matter if i do it when its running mine is currently the top part of it is pressed in
 
HarryBack said:
iceman said:
HarryBack said:
another possibility...dirty igniter. With a dirty igniter, the pellets will fill the burn pot up, warming slowly, causing early pyrolysis of the pellets, but not ignition (lots of smoke in burn chamber)....this can ignite suddenly and explosively, causing the door gaskets, and all the other gaskets for that matter, to "puff" when the uncombusted gas combusts...all at once. Its scary if you dont expect it....sometimes you hear damper flutter just before it happens, sometimes not.



harry should i change the low draft switch? will that hurt it if its not needed?

Low draft switch? Do you mean the vacuum switch in the guts of the unit (dont change it), or the hi/low distribution switch near the control board (wont matter- only controls the distribution fan)




the hi/lo switch because yes it is on the board near the control panel

is there a way to take off the knobs on the panel??? the white line is at 1 1/2 and it wont turn anymore to the left and on the fan when i turn it all the way towards H ITS LIKE 3/4 and where it says off its still on unless i turn it more towards room temp
 
iceman said:
HarryBack said:
iceman said:
HarryBack said:
another possibility...dirty igniter. With a dirty igniter, the pellets will fill the burn pot up, warming slowly, causing early pyrolysis of the pellets, but not ignition (lots of smoke in burn chamber)....this can ignite suddenly and explosively, causing the door gaskets, and all the other gaskets for that matter, to "puff" when the uncombusted gas combusts...all at once. Its scary if you dont expect it....sometimes you hear damper flutter just before it happens, sometimes not.


how do i clean the ignitor

The ignitor is under the burn pot, beind a plate held in place by two thumbscrews...loosen the thumbscrews, tak eoff the place, and clean all over inside...make sure the stove is cool first.




can i try changing the draft button on it (switching it)
and does it matter if i do it when its running mine is currently the top part of it is pressed in

The what?
Where are you looking?
 
Keep in mind pellet exhaust can also be blown back into the room in other ways - through slightly opened or loose fitting windows in that room, through a ventilated soffit, etc.

For instance, I have smelled smoke in the attic above my shop when running the stove. Wind currents could have brought the pipe output to all kinds of places where it may have been sucked into the room.

Also, a "little smokey" might be somewhat normal. A very tiny amount of tar that gets past the gasket on the stove front or anywhere else would cause a smell. Same with when the front door is opened and you rake the pot. You might not smell it as much when you are around the house, but coming in from a completely different place may make it more evident.
 
Draft button? top part pressed in?
Are you talking about the rocker switch on the stove after you open the control panel (not part of the hinged door/control panel)?
 
GVA said:
Draft button? top part pressed in?
Are you talking about the rocker switch on the stove after you open the control panel (not part of the hinged door/control panel)?





yes its on the inside
 
iceman said:
is there a way to take off the knobs on the panel??? the white line is at 1 1/2 and it wont turn anymore to the left and on the fan when i turn it all the way towards H ITS LIKE 3/4 and where it says off its still on unless i turn it more towards room temp

I don't know your stove, but typically knobs are either pressed onto the shaft and simply pull off, or are secured with a set-screw through the side of the knob into the shaft. Those require that you undo the setscrew before removing the knob. The setscrew can be almost any type of head, but most common are either flat head or allen sockets (in inch or metric sizes) Some knobs may have two setscrews at right angles to each other, but that isn't very common

Press on knobs usually are "keyed" onto the shaft - the shaft has a "half moon" shape, and the knob has a correspondingly shaped hole, which prevents repositioning.

Setscrew knobs can be used on a halfmoon shaft or a round one. If a halfmoon shaft, repositioning can be difficult as the screw is only going to work properly if tightened into the center of the half moon shape. Repositioning on a round shaft is less of a problem although the screw will sometimes want to fit into a dent made by an earlier setting.

If the knob can't be repositioned, look at how the switch itself mounts - sometimes it is possible to loosten the switch mounting hardware and turn the switch slightly then lock it back down.

It might also be worth checking with the manufacturer to see if there is a tech support issue where the knob position being off indicates a different problem....

Gooserider
 
iceman said:
GVA said:
Draft button? top part pressed in?
Are you talking about the rocker switch on the stove after you open the control panel (not part of the hinged door/control panel)?





yes its on the inside
That's for the distribution blower It Controls voltage to the blower.
It has nothing to do with draft.

The knob well it could have been put on wrong but most pots are D shaped it's possible it was attached to the control board a little crooked
 
GVA said:
iceman said:
GVA said:
Draft button? top part pressed in?
Are you talking about the rocker switch on the stove after you open the control panel (not part of the hinged door/control panel)?





yes its on the inside
That's for the distribution blower It Controls voltage to the blower.
It has nothing to do with draft.

The knob well it could have been put on wrong but most pots are D shaped it's possible it was attached to the control board a little crooked




is that something i can take off and put back on?
the right way
 
iceman said:
GVA said:
iceman said:
GVA said:
Draft button? top part pressed in?
Are you talking about the rocker switch on the stove after you open the control panel (not part of the hinged door/control panel)?





yes its on the inside
That's for the distribution blower It Controls voltage to the blower.
It has nothing to do with draft.

The knob well it could have been put on wrong but most pots are D shaped it's possible it was attached to the control board a little crooked




is that something i can take off and put back on?
the right way

I doubt it They most likley are part of the control board.
On room temp in between low and high gently pull knob straight out. The flat on the pot should be pointing at the off on the sticker.
If it is off a bit I doubt it would be replaced bt the dealer, but you could now line up the flat as above and scratch a new line on the knob and use this new line from now on, maybe fill in the scratch with some white out and cover old line with a sharpie.
 
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