my regency ci2600 isnt getting enough air

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At the front inside the firebox in the middle. There's a small outcropping that shrouds the boost air inlet. There are two bolts that hold the boost air assembly in place. If you have the reducer plate you can loosen those bolts and it will slide out. You can see a picture of the inlet and reducer in the post below.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/bookmarks/?type=post&id=1833039
Great.. sorey link doesn't work for me..
Is like to try and remove plate, but pic would be helpful in doing so....
 
I
Great.. sorey link doesn't work for me..
Is like to try and remove plate, but pic would be helpful in doing so....
I was able to see second picture but. If you can't see it it easy to do, when you open the door bottom centre of the front of the fire box you can see the two bolts on the inside of the fire box.
 
Sorry, I reposted because that first link was wrong. It's easy to do. It's just hard to see.

Assuming you have the restricter, just loosen the two bolts and use the ears that stick out the sides to pull it out from behind the shroud.
 
hello folks, just joined the hearth fourm ...

So i just had first fire yesterday.
i have the cat bypass open at top and primary air damper open, still not enough air getting into unit, its burning like i had the air cut off for a real slow night burn. any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
dave

I just installed a Regency i3100. I did my 1st burn two days ago. I put wood in it, lit the wood, but the fire couldn’t get enough air. The damper felt kind "spongy" to me and didn't have much travel. Seemed odd. So I pulled on it a little more firmly. It finally gave way. I removed a piece of filament tape.

It had been taped down for transit! I really laughed. With the "throttle" wide open it burn like a champ, the travel was about 10cm from closed to full throttle. I hope this helps you.
 
you would have to ask them that.
I have a Regency i3100 and I installed a 5.5" liner. I would not have made it through the flue opening with insulation if my liner was 6". I suspect that is why.

I am fairly confident I have enough draft. At 5.5" it works quite well.
 
Hi all;

I bought a Regency ci2600 and had it installed a couple of weeks ago. I too am having problems with the air damper lever. It does not do anything. In fact, the only way I can get a fire going for the first hour or so is to unlatch the door and leave a slight opening (I have log that pushes the door in place). After the fire gets going good I can latch the door but the burn is real anemic and playing with the air damper does not do anything, whether I have the cat bypass open or closed.

I have read the stuff about the plate in front of the air hole, but shouldn't the lever provide some control regardless?
I would appreciate any suggestions and a sense of how the air damper level works mechanically.

Thanks.
 
I would start by take the plate off then see how the air controller works. I also would check the wood to see the moisture, if the wood isn't seasoned it will give you a hard time to get started.
 
I have a Regency i3100 and I installed a 5.5" liner. I would not have made it through the flue opening with insulation if my liner was 6". I suspect that is why.
He has plenty of room in this case and the 3100 is a very diferent stove that breaths much easier than the 2600. That is why the height requirement to switch is lower for the tube stoves. Yes it may work on shorter chimnys but you will never know till you try it and i am not willing to put a liner in just because i think it might work. I need to know it will work well.
 
Anemic starts most often are symptoms of poorly seasoned wood, but a marginally drafting chimney will sometimes give similar poor performance. Assume that the stove is correct for the time being and take steps to test whether the wood or weak draft is the issue.
 
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