A couple of weeks back I purchased a Brass Flame wood stove which was tested in 1986. I purchased the stove for $75.00 I had to rebuild this stove so was able to study it to see how it operated. First, I would like to mention this stove is built like a tank an expression I am borrow from someone on this forum. It has three air intakes. The main two air intakes are controlled by the pull handle on the bottom of the stove. It adjusts air coming in above the glass and the three round air inlets on the back wall of the stove which are curiously placed in the middle rather than on the bottom as you see in the other older stoves. These two adjustments work independent of each other. It is a simple but ingenious way to control air flow. The third air intake is from some small holes on the bottom back side of the stove which go into some two-inch by ¾ tubes up through double steel walls to the secondary burners.
The secondary burners are not like what you see in most stoves today. Instead of having three or four tubes going across the top this stove has the tubes in a square shape welded to the stove walls allowing space for heat reflectors which set on top of the secondary burners which are removable. They were made of ¼ steel plates.
I made a few improvements to this stove. I welded in some angle iron above the secondary burners so I could place bricks as a heat sink instead of the ¼ steel plating. The back wall of the stove was warped and split so I cut it out and replaced it with new steel and added some short pieces of stainless-steel tubing onto the three holes which is the main air intake.
After I was all finished, I was excited to move the stove outside and hook up eight feet of pipe to test it. The tree stainless steel air intakes acted like torches and were shooting flames toward the glass window. In my first test I found that I could not shut the stove down totally as the secondary air tubes were not enough to keep the fire going so was creating allot of smoke. I had to allow some air flow through the air intake on the back wall. I stove heats up nicely and was smoke free after adjusting the air intakes.
The glass window was burned but with some hard labor and a polishing kit I was able to save the glass and $100.00 for a new window. It still has some small scratches but the window is clear enough to show of the fire. I put in new gaskets and bricks and hope to place this on Facebook Marketplace this week.
The secondary burners are not like what you see in most stoves today. Instead of having three or four tubes going across the top this stove has the tubes in a square shape welded to the stove walls allowing space for heat reflectors which set on top of the secondary burners which are removable. They were made of ¼ steel plates.
I made a few improvements to this stove. I welded in some angle iron above the secondary burners so I could place bricks as a heat sink instead of the ¼ steel plating. The back wall of the stove was warped and split so I cut it out and replaced it with new steel and added some short pieces of stainless-steel tubing onto the three holes which is the main air intake.
After I was all finished, I was excited to move the stove outside and hook up eight feet of pipe to test it. The tree stainless steel air intakes acted like torches and were shooting flames toward the glass window. In my first test I found that I could not shut the stove down totally as the secondary air tubes were not enough to keep the fire going so was creating allot of smoke. I had to allow some air flow through the air intake on the back wall. I stove heats up nicely and was smoke free after adjusting the air intakes.
The glass window was burned but with some hard labor and a polishing kit I was able to save the glass and $100.00 for a new window. It still has some small scratches but the window is clear enough to show of the fire. I put in new gaskets and bricks and hope to place this on Facebook Marketplace this week.
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