Ok great info kap. So I had the door gasket replaced two weeks ago when I had the stove cleaned and its very tight now. I wouldn't think that would be an issue. If it was my only source of heat, I'd run it to be warm, but I want to get it fixed properly so I don't have to worry about it. I'm thinking it could be snap disc #2 as well just because I've reset it before and it worked after. Also, just to note, the day I had to reset it was the same day it was cleaned by this company who also replaced the door gasket. Don't know if that could be a related issue or not. Anyway, I tried hooking the switch back up and it didn't start the auger unfortunately. The fan didn't ever stop working the time it shut itself down. I was in the room when it happened. The fire got real low and pellets stopped falling. I tried hitting the reset button, but nothing happened. The blower continued to blow out the warm air and the fan was still going. It slowly shut itself down thereafter. I was able to push the snap disc #2 little plastic button down which I'm guessing it "snapped" and it worked fine for days. Don't know why it snapped, but I believe it has a 200 degree limit then it pops for safety? Does that mean if it gets up to 201 degrees around the disc it will shut down? Here is another scenario, when they cleaned the stove and removed the baffles (inside walls) I'm not convinced they put them back in properly. It looks like there is a gap in the top left back corner now, almost like they weren't put back in the right order. The right side looks fine, the back panel has a lip on the top which holds the top in place, but the left side looks off to me. There is a lip at the top which appears to be holding the left wall in place, but I almost think the left side panel should be in front of the lip as opposed to behind it? If this doesn't make sense, maybe I can take a pic and post it and you can give me your opinion. I appreciate all the help guys!
Yes.... it's best to take a picture for us. They are not the easiest thing to put back together right. They just don't slide in like butter you know. But I doubt seriously this is of any consequence in relation to your problem. When you look at Box 5 on the diagram on the 1st page of this thread, you'll see the list of things that can affect a start up problem like yours. Everything to me points to inconsistencies in wiring connections somewhere. It's a new control box you say, so that strikes that out as the cause. I've been having similar problems with either Box 5 sequence and/or Box 3, since my stove was new 7/8 years ago. Mainly I have always had problems with the igniter relay clicking on and then off. So first question; are you getting the relay click on for igniter, when signal is sent to stove to turn on ....and does it stay on or click back off? I learned to equate this sound or not with there either being block 2 failure with pellets fed or a sometimes with no pellets fed and clicking back off or not clicking at all. This has happened at least once if not many times a year since my stove was new. The click on and click off do sound different in the control Box during that startup sequence. Note that difference for future reference. You can try to jiggle the control box or wires in the wire harness card edge slot connector at startup. To see if you get any clicking of the relay or auger movement. I'd get a click on and be good sometimes for months and sometimes just minutes, till it would click off. These startup sequences pretty much overlap.... basically mere fractions or no more than a few seconds at most apart. You get the relay click and the pellets start to drop at about the same time, within a moment of it's mv (millivolt) thermostat signal to stove. You could also jumper the thermostat connections on back and then just use the wall plug to eliminate that as one of your issues.
What could cause these 'first it's there, then it isn't' issues with then it working? I don't know for sure. But I think it all relates to inconsistent wiring connections within the wire harness slot edge connector. At least in my case. Either caused by poor wire harness assembly, the fact that they're just crimped on (rather than soldered) or a thickness difference in card edge slots sizes, between 1st and 2nd gen control boxes (latest version is clear/opaque plastic and you can see inside except for label cover). What happened when I bought mine is that it was a floor model and they had been putting both 1st/2nd gen control boxes in it from customer's to test them out.... stretched the contact points... etc I just don't know. But mine absolutely needs to be replaced at this point.
So anyway, I started jiggling the control box and wires one at a time. That's when I could get a few relay clicks the first time it happened in the first year I owned it. But it didn't fix it for long. So then I pulled it apart to diagnose the problem better. Couldn't decide whether the problem was the control box or wire harness connector. So I had a friend with the same stove bring over his Quadrafire control box, after a couple of times of this happening and it still would not start with a known good control box. After further messing with it I still had relay click, but no feed this time and relay would click off. Knew I was onto something this time, but I'd already taken it apart as far as I could to solve the problem. I then took the stove into the shop closest to me. Swapping out control box, ruled that out as the problem to me. But when they saw that I'd broke the seal on the control box, taken panels and back sheet metal off, they immediately told me that voided my warranty on a stove barely 6 month old. It was in late spring so I used a couple of electric heaters to get by that season. This is why I won't be going back to that shop ever again. Long story short along with trying to con me for a new control box and a whole new wiring harness, before even fully testing it out, I said enough. We carried it out to the loading dock. I connected it up to power outlet and jumpered the thermostat w/ a screwdriver. The igniter relay clicked on, pellets fed and it fired right up. Their jaws dropped and faces turned sour as my son and I disconnected and loaded up in the jeep and I flipped them off driving away. Some of these Pellet Stove Businesses seem to be run by scam artists to me. Charging more than it's worth for parts on such simple technology. Anyway it must have got jiggled moving it!
But when I got it home..... I was right back where I started with no clicks or pellets again. OMG I was ready to cry. This time I found that it was the thermostat wires being lose though and had in running in no time for months again. Then the next season I found that wires inside the stove were again not making good consistent connections. Either with the control board slot connections or the wires connecting to the contacts in the slot edge connector (defective assembly). So I finally traced out which connections weren't consistently making contact and it happened to be several wires, not just one in the card edge slot connector. The main one though, for me was the wire for getting the igniter heating up with a relay click on till thermocouple heated up, to click it off. Yours may be the vacuum and you may be not getting the igniter relay click at all or on and then off. This time I just jiggled the whole box, got a click and pellets were already feeding as it clicked off, with still no fire. Totally frustrated, I'm now thinking all my original problems relate to that card edge slot connector. All centered on the contacts inside that card edge slot connector not hitting the control board slot edge with solid contact.
So I pulled it apart, got a magnifying glass, some really bright lighting and noticed some weren't crimped on properly over bare wire. One looked like it had been crimped on without stripping insulation properly. That one turns out was the igniter relay. Plus the contacts looked to have been pushed in too far and stuck in. Possibly by a thickness variance in control box slot edges. Which would create a gap, with poor contact within the connector itself. My experience with card slot connectors of this crimp type has not been a good one. These crimped style are for automotive use and DC works different than AC. DC voltage will tend to make a connection even with a slight gap as long as connections are clean. AC has to be clean and actually making full physical contact and so it's best if they are soldered. Also be careful when you are dealing with the wiring on this stove, as it's got hot 110v AC the igniter at least. I'm not sure if there is any DC in the control box at all. From my experience you'll have better connections with wires being soldered into these card slot connectors running AC. That's why jiggling wires or the control box itself in the slot sometimes can work, to fix your problems. Just be careful is all. If you have somebody turn the lights off while jiggling/ tweaking the box, you might see sparks indicating the bad connection points. That would be your problem connection, if find that you hear igniter relay clicking on, yet get no pellets feeding the stove.
I've looked for the part number on that card slot connector for replacement. Nothing there and I've found all kinds of 2 x 15 card edge slot connectors online. After trying in vain to get another local stove shop to get one for me instead of being forced to buy a whole wiring harness and installing it. They all want to sell me the entire wire harness to fix a connector problem I've already isolated. Now what I need is the exact part number or spacing/pitch, card length and thickness to get the right one. Otherwise I'll just solder the wire harness to the control box and call it good, the next time it happens. Maybe find someone here with either the part number or the information on the proper 2 x 15 wire slot edge connector I need. Here's one to look at: Down the page you see Winchester Card Edge slot connector 8BD15DBCO
https://www.surplussales.com/ComputerAccess/con_edge.html
Your problem though, may still be with that #2 snap disc, a vacuum problem or the wires connecting the disc or vacuum switch to the control board. But it sounds to me like you are having wire connection problems somewhere in your stove! .....hope you get it figured out soon, even if it's not that card edge slot connector! (between I just replaced that tadpole door gasket myself for $19 off ebay vs super expensive local pricing, to have it done for me. A 20 minute job for me!)