More aggressive chain for my Stihl

[jj3500]

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html#RSF

 

[kobudo]

JJ3500 - Thank you for the link.

Tell me if I am reading the information correctly......
If I have a 021, 14" bar, 3/8" and .050 I would order the #3993? It looks like I would have to specify bar length of 14".
Am I missing something? What chain would you suggest? I have access to a ton of pine and birch but most of it isn't huge in diameter.

 

[jj3500]

Anyone here feel free to correct me.

Kobudo, the chain you are looking at is typically for a larger saw with a much larger guide bar. I don't think 14" is in the category.

My suggestion, after I used a full chisel myself, is to get any of your choice with the yellow diamond symbol(states Warning!).

 

[Gooserider]

JJ3500 - Thank you for the link.

Tell me if I am reading the information correctly......
If I have a 021, 14" bar, 3/8" and .050 I would order the #3993? It looks like I would have to specify bar length of 14".
Am I missing something? What chain would you suggest? I have access to a ton of pine and birch but most of it isn't huge in diameter.

While some folks use skip chain on everything, the normal rule of thumb is that if you are running a standard or short bar for a given size saw, you are better off using "full complement" (aka "full comp" or standard) chain. Skip chain is mostly for folks that are running bars that are on the long side of normal for a saw, or "over-barring" it... My personal rule of thumb is that for best results you should have about 3-4 cc's of engine for each inch of bar length... I.E. a 14" bar is good on a 40-45 cc saw, while to run a 20" bar, you should have about a 60cc saw (and if you have a 79cc saw like mine you will be doing serious smiling at the way it goes through wood :coolgrin: 4cc / inch is really fun...)

IOW, if you have 3-4cc of engine per inch of bar (with rounding), get a normal chain, if you are much under 3 cc / inch or less, get a skip chain or a shorter bar...

Usually the chain guage and pitch are implied by the chain number, so you don't have to specify them when ordering, however since you can put any one of several bars on a given saw, you would need to specify the either the bar length AND what saw you are using, or (preferably) the "link count" - the number of drive links in the loop. The link count is easier for the dealer since that way he doesn't have to look up the saw / bar combo to see how many links it takes...

I don't do the Stihl part numbers, but I would suggest that you want one of their "yellow" chains in a "full chisel" style if what you are after is agressive...

Gooserider

 

[LLigetfa]

I don't do the Stihl part numbers...

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

 

[Backroads]

OK...went to the Stihl dealer where I bought my 361 from last summer. I told exactly what I posted up top. He essentially talked me out of it. That there is a difference, yes. But by no means...dramatic. Additional information too. My stock chain will stay sharper longer than that of the full chisel. Full chisel will be sharper but dull quicker.( i realize there will always be a trade off)

So...I didn't buy one. Just going to sharpen my existing one.

JJ, which dealer did you get you saw from? Being a local I'm fairly familiar with them.

 

[Flatbedford]

Well sharpened, the green Stihl chain is pretty good anyway. I wanted a non safety chain for the MS180 that I bought used a few months ago. The dealer had only safety chain for my little saw. With a fresh safety chain that little homeowner saw cuts pretty well.