Missing pieces and leaving this wood stove burning at work.

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Well at the time it was either that or freeze so. Guess I’ll have to get it looked at.
I wont knock anyone for trying not to freeze but the other alternative you are facing is burning to death so choose wisely.

You should consider getting double wall pipe at least. That has a minimum clearance of 2". Also, any horizontal runs should have 1/4" pitch per 1 foot horizontal. The double wall pipe can be expensive but so it rebuilding a house. I would strongly suggest you contact a knowledgeable chimney installer and see what it will cost you to get a proper chimney.

Also, you should move that steel plate out to cover more of the floor in front of the door. Embers can fall out and go further than you think. Keeping the area under the door clean is important so if something falls out it doesn't catch on fire.
 
@CodyR4, can you post us a picture of the pipe on the outside of the home? Thanks.

The single wall black stove pipe has a minimum clearance to combustibles of 18". If you are running the stove hot enough to get the sides to glow then you are in jeopardy of catching the window sill on fire. Honestly, your chimney is not safe or legal by code.

The sides are glowing so hot bc I’m missing that firebrick.
 
How do I fix it? Like what do I run it through?
Is there a chimney anywhere in your home? If not you are going to have to go through the wall...
 
I wont knock anyone for trying not to freeze but the other alternative you are facing is burning to death so choose wisely.

You should consider getting double wall pipe at least. That has a minimum clearance of 2". Also, any horizontal runs should have 1/4" pitch per 1 foot horizontal. The double wall pipe can be expensive but so it rebuilding a house. I would strongly suggest you contact a knowledgeable chimney installer and see what it will cost you to get a proper chimney.

Also, you should move that steel plate out to cover more of the floor in front of the door. Embers can fall out and go further than you think. Keeping the area under the door clean is important so if something falls out it doesn't catch on fire.
I have no idea what any of that is. But I’ll just contact someone or something.
 
How do I fix it? Like what do I run it through?
Duravent is a manufacture of stove pipe. They have great resources available to help you decide what you need. Check their web site here. You will need an "All-Fuel" stove pipe for exterior. You can then connect the stove to the all-fuel pipe with either the single wall black stove pipe like commonly found at any hardware store, or you can use a double wall interior pipe if you cannot maintain the large 18" clearance to combustibles that the single wall requires. The DuraVent interior double wall stove pipe is the DVL stuff.

All-Fuel "DuraTech": (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=1)
DVL: (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=11)

Click on the literature tabs for info on installation.
 
Duravent is a manufacture of stove pipe. They have great resources available to help you decide what you need. Check their web site here. You will need an "All-Fuel" stove pipe for exterior. You can then connect the stove to the all-fuel pipe with either the single wall black stove pipe like commonly found at any hardware store, or you can use a double wall interior pipe if you cannot maintain the large 18" clearance to combustibles that the single wall requires. The DuraVent interior double wall stove pipe is the DVL stuff.

All-Fuel "DuraTech": (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=1)
DVL: (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=11)

Click on the literature tabs for info on installation.

How much does it cost for this usually?
 
The sides are glowing so hot bc I’m missing that firebrick.
Yeah, and the window is melting because the pipe is hot. The firebrick will keep more heat in the firebox but you're still getting the flue pipe over 600 degrees. I know this because I burn an old Shenandoah that is very similar in construction as your stove and I have put a infrared thermal imaging gun on the single wall pipe and I've seen it as high as 700F within 1-2 foot of the stove outlet when I was pushing the stove. I guarantee that you will not be able to hold your hand on the window sill longer than 30 seconds once your stove is at operating temperature, it will burn you.
 
Yeah, and the window is melting because the pipe is hot. The firebrick will keep more heat in the firebox but you're still getting the flue pipe over 600 degrees. I know this because I burn an old Shenandoah that is very similar in construction as your stove and I have put a infrared thermal imaging gun on the single wall pipe and I've seen it as high as 700F within 1-2 foot of the stove outlet when I was pushing the stove. I guarantee that you will not be able to hold your hand on the window sill longer than 30 seconds once your stove is at operating temperature, it will burn you.

You can’t ive tried. Since I already have the stove how much would something like this cost? Have any idea?

https://www.google.com/amp/www.inst...ation-for-Wood-Stove-through-a/?amp_page=true
 
How much does it cost for this usually?
Its expensive, no lie. You'll need to do some of that yourself. Search Google for "DuraVent 6DT-X" but replace the X with the desired length. A 12 would be a 12" piece, they come in 6", 12", 18" 24", 36", 48".

Please start reading in the links I sent you. Here is an installation manual. (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/l923_w.pdf)
 
Its expensive, no lie. You'll need to do some of that yourself. Search Google for "DuraVent 6DT-X" but replace the X with the desired length. A 12 would be a 12" piece, they come in 6", 12", 18" 24", 36", 48".

Please start reading in the links I sent you. Here is an installation manual. (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/l923_w.pdf)
RIP me. Guess I’ll have to wait until Tax time, and I’ll check it out on my break thanks.
 
Its expensive, no lie. You'll need to do some of that yourself. Search Google for "DuraVent 6DT-X" but replace the X with the desired length. A 12 would be a 12" piece, they come in 6", 12", 18" 24", 36", 48".

Please start reading in the links I sent you. Here is an installation manual. (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/l923_w.pdf)

So I can buy all these part and just install it myself and get it inspected right? Looks simple.
 
So I can buy all these part and just install it myself and get it inspected right? Looks simple.
Technically you done even need it to be inspected but you should check with your home insurance if it would be required or not. Some may, some may not. It may mean the difference between getting an insurance claim and not but, you'll have to ask.
 
Technically you done even need it to be inspected but you should check with your home insurance if it would be required or not. Some may, some may not. It may mean the difference between getting an insurance claim and not but, you'll have to ask.

Nice, okay well thanks again. I will try and get these pipes even if it’s piece by piece until I have them all.
 
Nice, okay well thanks again. I will try and get these pipes even if it’s piece by piece until I have them all.
If you could only afford one piece today I would highly suggest you use it to go through the window where the clearance to combustibles is the lowest. If you cannot afford the pipe and are going to continue to use the stove at least get some more single wall pipe and make a shield to try and deflect some of that heat before you start a fire. Good lord, the window is melting. Good catch by @showrguy.
 
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If you could only afford one piece today I would highly suggest you use it to go through the window where the clearance to combustibles is the lowest. If you cannot afford the pipe and are going to continue to use the stove at least get some more single wall pipe and make a shield to try and deflect some of that heat before you start a fire. Good lord, the window is melting. Good catch by @showrguy.

Alright man jeez.
 
Once you get the parts, you may want to go through the wall or just eliminate the window altogether if your leaving the stove n the same place . Looks like its toast(the window) anyway.
 
Can I not make it go through the roof. On that site that far listed it’s cheaper.
Yes you can it is actually a better way to do it usually. But it looks like you will need to replace the window as well.
 
Can I not make it go through the roof. On that site that far listed it’s cheaper.
Absolutley you can! Better draft and easier to clean!
 
https://m.ebay.com/itm/SELKIRK-2066...?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&_mwBanner=1

This has everything I need correct? Besides the pipes that come from the stove. The black ones.
It does not include adjustable roof flashing or the class A pipe to extend beyond your roofline to meet code...do you have a cathedral ceiling? Do you know the pitch of your roof? You also have to frame in a square for your pipe support box to set on and to be fastened to...know a good roofer? You don't want it leaking...