This tool is, I think, a bit easier to use: hvac.betterbuiltnw.comDo a manual J on your house to figure out heating and cooling loads. Don't guess.
www.loadcalc.net
I actually used both, for my application, and they were re-assuringly close.
This tool is, I think, a bit easier to use: hvac.betterbuiltnw.comDo a manual J on your house to figure out heating and cooling loads. Don't guess.
www.loadcalc.net
There are actually now available connectors for refrigerant lines that are "push to connect" like SharkBite plumbing fittings.I had a professional precision flaring tool, so I could cut and flare tubing. If you don’t have a good one, you need to use the factory flares making sure they are perfect. The line set connects at both inside and outside units with flare fittings.
Yep, and the Mitsubishi I linked above is $2088. Hence my dilemma. Do I pay virtually the same, for what by all accounts is a far superior unit (both in reliability AND in performance), at the cost of having no warranty because of my DIY install ? I'm leaning towards "yes".Mr cool 24k is now 1900$.
THE top brand, two-ton, for right at $2K. Of course, this doesn't include the line-set and other installation parts![]()
Mitsubishi MZ-HM24NA - 24k BTU Cooling + Heating - HM-Series Wall Mounted Air Conditioning System - 20.0 SEER2
Buy Mitsubishi MZ-HM24NA Today. Free Shipping. Check the Mitsubishi - 24k BTU Cooling + Heating - HM-Series Wall Mounted Air Conditioning System - 20.0 SEER2 ratings before checking out.www.ecomfort.com
Cool, everything in this world is made to make me obsolete.There are actually now available connectors for refrigerant lines that are "push to connect" like SharkBite plumbing fittings.
A local friend, who does HVAC work, swears by them. He uses the ones called "sockets" that connect to the factory flares on one end and are push-to-connect on the other end. Installs them on the two lines on the inside and outside unit first. Then cuts the line-set to fit, cleans up the ends real well (like you would for a SharkBite) and pushes in to conenct.
I believe he uses a different brand though, only sold at HVAC supply houses (that typically won't sell to DIYers).
Well, the costs of the units is similar.I assume you have done your homework between the two models with respect to annual efficiencies? The up front cost savings is rapidly eaten up ... I would do it myself but
Actually, there's a great site that does this for you.its PITA to find the spec sheets for specific units as every manufacturer had many models.
Mitsu over MrCool, for sure. But I'm actually voting Fujitsu. Look at this sucker ...I vote Mitsubishi.
I don't have any direct experience with the vendor I plan to use, as yet (ecomfort-DOT-com) but their website appears to be honest about lead-times, saying some items (particularly Mitsu) are backordered, other 3-4 weeks, others in-stock.You should be aware that Mitsubishi units are currently very difficult to get, a lot of orders are backed 6+ months out. The online retailers may be hesitant to let you know about that, because they still want your money.
Just saying, my buddy ordered one earlier this year that said 3-4 weeks, time came and went, they gave him the run around for 2 months until they finally admitted it would be another 6+ months but no guarantee so he ended up canceling it. I believe this was from HVAC Direct.I don't have any direct experience with the vendor I plan to use, as yet (ecomfort-DOT-com) but their website appears to be honest about lead-times, saying some items (particularly Mitsu) are backordered, other 3-4 weeks, others in-stock.
Sorry if you have already answered this on another thread, but is there an advantage to waiting for the new units with new refrigerant? Does it improve the efficiency or maintaince of the units?No details but the inflation reduction bill reportedly has a $8000 tax credit for minisplits for low income home owners and $2000 credit for anyone to install one. I think the price of minisplits is going up. The old R410 units are being cleaned out of inventory while the new refrigerant units will be coming out soon.
From a equipment performance perspective I don't think R32 or R454b have any advantages over R410A. They are more environmentally friendly, that's it.Sorry if you have already answered this on another thread, but is there an advantage to waiting for the new units with new refrigerant? Does it improve the efficiency or maintaince of the units?
And flammable.From a equipment performance perspective I don't think R32 or R454b have any advantages over R410A. They are more environmentally friendly, that's it.
Your install looks great! I’m curious how it works for you this winter too. More often than not, my stove runs on 1, which works out to about 10k BTU. If I could offset that much with a mini split, and it would still deliver a decent ROI, then I’d go for it. It would also allow me to keep my boiler pilot off permanently, which would save a little more during the heating season.I also recently self installed a Mr cool DIY minisplit unit. 24k sized to heat the home. Very cheap after utility rebates and even some federal rebates I expect. We all hate how the inside units look and they make noise and blow air so you don't really want it real close.
I stuck my inside unit in sort of an adjacent room with no doors and plenty of airflow to the main space. It blows into the main space quite well at least with cold air. We will soon find out if heat moves as easily. You don't have to put the dang thing in your living room!
Our other heat source is wood and electric wall heaters. It was in the low 40s last night and the house was 67 this morning. We have a LONG heating season that is not too intense so I'm hoping the minisplit can reduce the burning season.
I use mine for heating more than I do for cooling. I never intended to use it for heat. It was an after thought. Mine is a 3rd gen Mr. Cool. I use it for heat down to 25. It goes lower than that, but usually turn to wood and pellets if the weather is going to stay in the 20s for an extended period of time.Your install looks great! I’m curious how it works for you this winter too. More often than not, my stove runs on 1, which works out to about 10k BTU. If I could offset that much with a mini split, and it would still deliver a decent ROI, then I’d go for it. It would also allow me to keep my boiler pilot off permanently, which would save a little more during the heating season.
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