Milling

[glenng]

Good job SJ . I did some milling years ago with an 066 . Your pics make me eager to dustoff my Granberg and mill a spruce that I have into beams for a woodshed addition. Great job.

 

[smokinj]

Good job SJ . I did some milling years ago with an 066 . Your pics make me eager to dustoff my Granberg and mill a spruce that I have into beams for a woodshed addition. Great job.

Its a blast and just turning the next board over is worth it all. We where running much quicker than I thought it would go..Next run I am going to slow way down and just see how smooth we can get the boards....So the boards will not even need to go through a planner..

 

[smokinj]

Here is a take on the quality of the milling will see if we can correct this.


By BObl



R" means rough and "S" for smooth and "J" for jump or jaggies.

Actually now that I see it magnified that finish is very acceptable, especially for a first go, and I'd still accept that now as being OK for most of what I do. It also irrelevant if the lumber is going to be re-sawn or reprocessed. However, it is possible to get the finish smoother if you want to.

Here are a few tips.
1) The difference between R and S is usually the cutting speed. With a big saw it's tempting to push the saw a bit harder so that it cuts faster but then it bites more making a rougher surface, eventually it bogs down a little and so the operator backs off and this repeats over and over again. So maintaining a more constant pressure will assist in maintaining a more constant cutting speed which will maintain a smoother finish. In practice it also adds very little more time to the cutting speed.

2) Avoid rotating/twisting the mill back and forth as it moves down the log. This will reduce the slight rocking that inevitably happens because no mill is completely rigid or coplanar to the bar. I know this is inevitable to some extent when negotiating around lumps and bumps on the side of the log but moving the mill down the log at as close as possible to a constant angle will get rid of most of these jaggies.

3) Milling on top of an already rougher surface may produce an even rougher cut surface as the mill rides over the existing lumps and bumps. Using widely spaced rails on top of the log for every cut will reduce this effect and it also makes it possible to correct any twist that may have occurred from previous cuts.

Like I said your finish is already very good and the above are just suggestions.

 

[Battenkiller]

Here is a take on the quality of the milling will see if we can correct this.


By BObl



R" means rough and "S" for smooth and "J" for jump or jaggies.

Actually now that I see it magnified that finish is very acceptable, especially for a first go, and I'd still accept that now as being OK for most of what I do. It also irrelevant if the lumber is going to be re-sawn or reprocessed. However, it is possible to get the finish smoother if you want to.

Here are a few tips.
1) The difference between R and S is usually the cutting speed. With a big saw it's tempting to push the saw a bit harder so that it cuts faster but then it bites more making a rougher surface, eventually it bogs down a little and so the operator backs off and this repeats over and over again. So maintaining a more constant pressure will assist in maintaining a more constant cutting speed which will maintain a smoother finish. In practice it also adds very little more time to the cutting speed.

2) Avoid rotating/twisting the mill back and forth as it moves down the log. This will reduce the slight rocking that inevitably happens because no mill is completely rigid or coplanar to the bar. I know this is inevitable to some extent when negotiating around lumps and bumps on the side of the log but moving the mill down the log at as close as possible to a constant angle will get rid of most of these jaggies.

3) Milling on top of an already rougher surface may produce an even rougher cut surface as the mill rides over the existing lumps and bumps. Using widely spaced rails on top of the log for every cut will reduce this effect and it also makes it possible to correct any twist that may have occurred from previous cuts.

Like I said your finish is already very good and the above are just suggestions.

Good tips you got there.

As far as surface quality goes, most of the stuff will cup to at least some degree, even in a kiln. You end up having to run it through the planer no matter what you try to keep it flat. I just got done re-stacking a bunch of cherry and basswood that was cut on a Wood Miser. I carted the planer out there as well, since they all will need serious flattening, even though they were carefully stickered and clamped for two years now. Now's when I wish I had a real planer. The little Ridgid I have will do most of what I need it for, but when you have a lot to do it is S-L-O-W. Good thing about it is that mine came with a promotional lifetime warranty, so I'm gonna try to kill it and then get a new one.

 

[smokinj]

Here is a take on the quality of the milling will see if we can correct this.


By BObl



R" means rough and "S" for smooth and "J" for jump or jaggies.

Actually now that I see it magnified that finish is very acceptable, especially for a first go, and I'd still accept that now as being OK for most of what I do. It also irrelevant if the lumber is going to be re-sawn or reprocessed. However, it is possible to get the finish smoother if you want to.

Here are a few tips.
1) The difference between R and S is usually the cutting speed. With a big saw it's tempting to push the saw a bit harder so that it cuts faster but then it bites more making a rougher surface, eventually it bogs down a little and so the operator backs off and this repeats over and over again. So maintaining a more constant pressure will assist in maintaining a more constant cutting speed which will maintain a smoother finish. In practice it also adds very little more time to the cutting speed.

2) Avoid rotating/twisting the mill back and forth as it moves down the log. This will reduce the slight rocking that inevitably happens because no mill is completely rigid or coplanar to the bar. I know this is inevitable to some extent when negotiating around lumps and bumps on the side of the log but moving the mill down the log at as close as possible to a constant angle will get rid of most of these jaggies.

3) Milling on top of an already rougher surface may produce an even rougher cut surface as the mill rides over the existing lumps and bumps. Using widely spaced rails on top of the log for every cut will reduce this effect and it also makes it possible to correct any twist that may have occurred from previous cuts.

Like I said your finish is already very good and the above are just suggestions.

Good tips you got there.

As far as surface quality goes, most of the stuff will cup to at least some degree, even in a kiln. You end up having to run it through the planer no matter what you try to keep it flat. I just got done re-stacking a bunch of cherry and basswood that was cut on a Wood Miser. I carted the planer out there as well, since they all will need serious flattening, even though they were carefully stickered and clamped for two years now. Now's when I wish I had a real planer. The little Ridgid I have will do most of what I need it for, but when you have a lot to do it is S-L-O-W. Good thing about it is that mine came with a promotional lifetime warranty, so I'm gonna try to kill it and then get a new one.

Some of the slabs will be at 2 and 3 inchs thick and hoping for no twisting as they will be used as is(most will be plan though).....just have to see what I have in a few months when I fire up the blast furnace.

 

[jman]

Another book you can check out on canoe building, go to www.gilgilpatrick.com Me and my wife are the ones making the canoe in his revised edition. Mr. Gilpatrick has many books on outdoor gear to furniture, we are in the process in making the furniture now at his shop.

 

[smokinj]

Another book you can check out on canoe building, go to www.gilgilpatrick.com Me and my wife are the ones making the canoe in his revised edition. Mr. Gilpatrick has many books on outdoor gear to furniture, we are in the process in making the furniture now at his shop.

Here is the one that I just won for .99cents
(broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320551982100&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT)

 

[Battenkiller]

Another book you can check out on canoe building, go to www.gilgilpatrick.com Me and my wife are the ones making the canoe in his revised edition. Mr. Gilpatrick has many books on outdoor gear to furniture, we are in the process in making the furniture now at his shop.

Here is the one that I just won for .99cents
(broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320551982100&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT)

There ya go... the bible itself. ;-) Has several good plans in it as well, but you'll have to draw them out full size. The book explains how in great detail.

 

[smokinj]

Another book you can check out on canoe building, go to www.gilgilpatrick.com Me and my wife are the ones making the canoe in his revised edition. Mr. Gilpatrick has many books on outdoor gear to furniture, we are in the process in making the furniture now at his shop.

Here is the one that I just won for .99cents
(broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320551982100&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT)

There ya go... the bible itself. ;-) Has several good plans in it as well, but you'll have to draw them out full size. The book explains how in great detail.

Is there another book I should have along with this one?

 

[Battenkiller]

Is there another book I should have along with this one?

Not needed at this point IMO. The whole idea is to get the first one under your belt, go through the whole process. Then change a few things on the next one, etc. That book will get you your first canoe built without a lot of head scratching. It's a bit of work, but if you follow the recipe, it's like making a cake. What holds many folks back is the cost of the milled strips. You have that one already taken care of.

 

[Jags]

Now's when I wish I had a real planer.

Hey BK - come on down. I got a Rockwell wedge bed planer that would just LOVE to sink its teeth into some of that.

 

[smokinj]

Now's when I wish I had a real planer.

Hey BK - come on down. I got a Rockwell wedge bed planer that would just LOVE to sink its teeth into some of that.

Yea jags bring that bad boy on down! How wide can you go?

 

[Jags]

Now's when I wish I had a real planer.

Hey BK - come on down. I got a Rockwell wedge bed planer that would just LOVE to sink its teeth into some of that.

Yea jags bring that bad boy on down! How wide can you go?

It can go 18" wide but about 14" thick I believe. Feed a big piece of Oak through it and it looks like a snow blower :lol: 1/4" cuts at a time.

I wish it was as easy as just throwing it in - it weighs right at 1000 pounds.

 

[smokinj]

Now's when I wish I had a real planer.

Hey BK - come on down. I got a Rockwell wedge bed planer that would just LOVE to sink its teeth into some of that.

Yea jags bring that bad boy on down! How wide can you go?

It can go 18" wide but about 14" thick I believe. Feed a big piece of Oak through it and it looks like a snow blower :lol: 1/4" cuts at a time.

I wish it was as easy as just throwing it in - it weighs right at 1000 pounds.

It still would be easier to bring the planner to me I should be in the 10,500 range on would maybe more just throwing that off the # of logs I have an estimate only....lol 18in. that is a big planner..

 

[peakbagger]

Acomment on the cedar strip canoe building. Both books are good guides but the gilpatrick book is the best for first timers. I have done two gilpatricks and two cedar strip kayaks. The one mistake I did with my original gipatrick was I went cheap with the varnish and regretted it. Buy some Epiphanes from Hamilton Marine. I used standard spar varnish on my original canoe and the UV rays "cooked" it rapidly. The strips were barely visible after several years. The boats with Epiphanes show barely any UV damage.

 

[smokinj]

Acomment on the cedar strip canoe building. Both books are good guides but the gilpatrick book is the best for first timers. I have done two gilpatricks and two cedar strip kayaks. The one mistake I did with my original gipatrick was I went cheap with the varnish and regretted it. Buy some Epiphanes from Hamilton Marine. I used standard spar varnish on my original canoe and the UV rays "cooked" it rapidly. The strips were barely visible after several years. The boats with Epiphanes show barely any UV damage.

got any pic's of them I love the wood canoe's and have only have seen one in person. Side note the kayak are loaded and ready for a 4 day trip starting friday A.M.

 

[Jags]

...lol 18in. that is a big planner..

Yea - it was built for industrial use, not homeowner. It was originally 220v 3 phase, but had been converted to 220 single phase by the previous owner. Its a pretty heavy hitter. I bet it will build up the chip pile faster than an 880 :lol:

 

[smokinj]

...lol 18in. that is a big planner..

Yea - it was built for industrial use, not homeowner. It was originally 220v 3 phase, but had been converted to 220 single phase by the previous owner. Its a pretty heavy hitter. I bet it will build up the chip pile faster than an 880 :lol:

My dad has the same deal on his planner about a mile away when I was a kid it was my job to keep the saw dust out of his shop part-time jod for sure. Oh it will kick that 880 @ss!

 

[jman]

Acomment on the cedar strip canoe building. Both books are good guides but the gilpatrick book is the best for first timers. I have done two gilpatricks and two cedar strip kayaks. The one mistake I did with my original gipatrick was I went cheap with the varnish and regretted it. Buy some Epiphanes from Hamilton Marine. I used standard spar varnish on my original canoe and the UV rays "cooked" it rapidly. The strips were barely visible after several years. The boats with Epiphanes show barely any UV damage.

got any pic's of them I love the wood canoe's and have only have seen one in person. Side note the kayak are loaded and ready for a 4 day trip starting friday A.M.

 

[jman]

This is the canoe that was built by me and the wife with Gilpatrick for his revised edition of his book how to buila strip canoe

 

[jman]

my wife

 

[jman]

if any you are on face book let me know I got photos of start tyo finish, including us building our paddles

 

[smokinj]

That looks Sweeet...The river is about what we have nice for camping and fishing. (flooded) hoping it will look better by thursday.

 

[jman]

Thanks, heres a couple of us in it going down the river

 

[jman]

these are the paddles we bilt