Milling with a 026?

[southbalto]

My newly semi-retired dad has a pretty large woodlot....mostly poplar and red oak.

I'm scratching my head thinking of a birthday present and thought he might have some fun milling some of the downed wood. He has an 026 and a 48cc Craftsman with a 20" bar.

Can it be done with either saw?

 

[gandrimp]

Not for very long.

Probably will make him want or need a bigger saw very soon.

Small saws dont cool very well when pushed constantly,
and that is what will happen with a small saw, pushed constantly.

 

[gandrimp]

Read this post https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/71411/ .

 

[smokinj]

Not for very long.

Probably will make him want or need a bigger saw very soon.

Small saws dont cool very well when pushed constantly,
and that is what will happen with a small saw, pushed constantly.

+1 very very softwoods you may have a slight chance. 70cc + at a very minimum. I run 122cc and its like watching paint dry, and you must keep everthing clean and chains shape very sharp. I normally have 2 people on the mill and a 3rd just grinding chains. Very slow going but there's some tree's out there that are Awesome. As a hobby only and smaller woods tree' a 361- 59cc or 390- 65cc could pull it off if you do everything right all the time.

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34 inch walnut. This will give you an idea of how fast even a small women can bog out an 880. 122cc's

Not trying to discourage you. Just a very labour intensive gig and not done right even with the best of saw's things can go bad quick.

 

[DiscoInferno]

Just upgrade him to a Rancher 455 and you'll be fine!
:cheese:

(Actually the speed of milling with the 455, while of course slow, isn't as bad as I feared. Plenty fast for my low-volume purposes. But I still don't plan to make a habit of it.)

 

[smokinj]

Just upgrade him to a Rancher 455 and you'll be fine!
:cheese:

(Actually the speed of milling with the 455, while of course slow, isn't as bad as I feared. Plenty fast for my low-volume purposes. But I still don't plan to make a habit of it.)

Just keep it cool and slow Like molasses in the winter time! ease those pistol out. lol

 

[DiscoInferno]

So ignoring the speed of the cut (which is clearly tied to size), what's the fundamental issue: size or build quality? Are small saws inherently prone to overheat (this makes some sense to me), are small saws inherently "delicate", or is it that bigger saws just tend to be better/more ruggedly built? Would a 346xp or another small pro saw be similarly prone to destruction if used for milling? (Not that I'm suggesting it!)

 

[smokinj]

So ignoring the speed of the cut (which is clearly tied to size), what's the fundamental issue: size or build quality? Are small saws inherently prone to overheat (this makes some sense to me), are small saws inherently "delicate", or is it that bigger saws just tend to be better/more ruggedly built? Would a 346xp or another small pro saw be similarly prone to destruction if used for milling? (Not that I'm suggesting it!)

Really all saws are prone to this even an 880. 2000.00 shot up in smoke will make you think.lol Ripping cutts in general are hard on any saw and heat is what Kills. Air filter and the air intake that cools the saw (vents on the saw case) needs to be very clean at all times and idling any time you even think its running hot. I run veggie oil so if you smell french Fry's lift off the the throttle now and idle. Sharp chains with good raker depth would be the next important thing to watch. Smaller the saw the less margin for error.

 

[OhioBurner©]

I was wondering the same, only with my MS290. After seeing there were some cheap (but not sure how well they would work) sawmilling devices I have been contemplating getting one just for some odd n ends stuff like to cut a big mantle piece for the fireplace. Nothing huge, just something like 8"x8"x6', and maybe some smaller stuff for crafty type stuff. Other thought was to try and hand-hewn it but without any experience doing it, it would be a heck of a lot of work just to screw something up lol.

 

[DiscoInferno]

I guess for milling it would be nice if saws had a temperature sensor. I'm quickly learning to tell from the exhaust, which blows towards my pushing hand.

Ohio - I just got the Granberg "Small Log" mill, which is the cheapest of that line (~$130). It is very sturdy and well-built and works surprisingly well considering it only clamps near the base of the bar and the tip is unsupported. Am considering getting the "Beam Machine" ($40) or even the Harbor Freight version ("lumber maker" $15) for edging.

 

[smokinj]

I guess for milling it would be nice if saws had a temperature sensor. I'm quickly learning to tell from the exhaust, which blows towards my pushing hand.

Ohio - I just got the Granberg "Small Log" mill, which is the cheapest of that line (~$130). It is very sturdy and well-built and works surprisingly well considering it only clamps near the base of the bar and the tip is unsupported. Am considering getting the "Beam Machine" ($40) or even the Harbor Freight version ("lumber maker" $15) for edging.

You got the best small mill. Good chains and watch for signs of heat idle offten, keep it clean sharpe chains. Lot of work ,but if you love to do it theres nothing better.
May go one more step and run 40-1 oil

 

[jackofalltrades]

I run an 066 on a small mill and have sawn a few thousand board feet with it. It does a fine job and the saw is still running fine, but I wouldn't even start with a smaller saw. It is not the fastest thing in the world but its fast enough to make it worth your time if you want some wood to use around the place. I wouldn't start doing it thinking I was going to make enough to make some money from it.

 

[SolarAndWood]

I guess for milling it would be nice if saws had a temperature sensor. I'm quickly learning to tell from the exhaust, which blows towards my pushing hand.

Ohio - I just got the Granberg "Small Log" mill, which is the cheapest of that line (~$130). It is very sturdy and well-built and works surprisingly well considering it only clamps near the base of the bar and the tip is unsupported. Am considering getting the "Beam Machine" ($40) or even the Harbor Freight version ("lumber maker" $15) for edging.

You got the best small mill. Good chains and watch for signs of heat idle offten, keep it clean sharpe chains. Lot of work ,but if you love to do it theres nothing better.
May go one more step and run 40-1 oil

After looking at this http://www.granberg.com/chainsaw_mill_in_use.html, it looks like the combo of the mini mill and the small log mill combo can achieve the same thing a bigger mill can? Just with a little more waste from squaring off 3 sides instead of 1 before cutting the slabs? Is it easier to cut the sides with a table saw after drying the slabs than upfront with the mill?

 

[Thistle]

After looking at this http://www.granberg.com/chainsaw_mill_in_use.html, it looks like the combo of the mini mill and the small log mill combo can achieve the same thing a bigger mill can? Just with a little more waste from squaring off 3 sides instead of 1 before cutting the slabs? Is it easier to cut the sides with a table saw after drying the slabs than upfront with the mill?

I normally use either heavy duty worm drive Skilsaw (2 3/8" cutting depth) with straight edge, Dewalt Table Saw (3 1/4") or Delta 14" Heavy Duty Band Saw with riser block & Resaw Fence (12 1/4" depth) to true up at least 1 edge of the plank,slab or block.Depending on size & what the intended use is for the pieces.Those Mini-Mills look promising though,am thinking about one sometime for edging medium size logs.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Those Mini-Mills look promising though,am thinking about one sometime for edging medium size logs.

So, take one side off to make it easier to run through the table saw?

 

[Thistle]

Those Mini-Mills look promising though,am thinking about one sometime for edging medium size logs.

So, take one side off to make it easier to run through the table saw?

You got it.Whatever I use,I normally cut at least 1 straight edge when the wood is still green & before its stored or stacked for drying.Makes things easier later on.

 

[smokinj]

Those Mini-Mills look promising though,am thinking about one sometime for edging medium size logs.

So, take one side off to make it easier to run through the table saw?

You got it.Whatever I use,I normally cut at least 1 straight edge when the wood is still green & before its stored or stacked for drying.Makes things easier later on.

Mini mills suck! Mill the top off 1/4 spin Thaduuu!

 

[SolarAndWood]

You got it.Whatever I use,I normally cut at least 1 straight edge when the wood is still green & before its stored or stacked for drying.Makes things easier later on.

ok, so it looks like edging takes somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 the diameter off if you do both sides? Looks like with the mini/small log combo, a 24" bar can handle a 30" log which is probably as big as I am going to get in my trailer anyway even with 4' lengths. Easier on the wallet and the saw.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Thaduuu!

Thaduuu???

 

[smokinj]

Thaduuu!

Thaduuu???[/quote

Lol Perfect when milled with a Alaskan...Not so perfect with a mini!

 

[SolarAndWood]

By perfect, you mean precise? It will be a long time before I am making cabinetry. I'm at the Adirondack chair phase of the game.

 

[smokinj]

If you have a table saw with some hp chaulk line it and free hand the line is much better than a mini mill can do!

 

[smokinj]

By perfect, you mean precise? It will be a long time before I am making cabinetry. I'm at the Adirondack chair phase of the game.

Not really perfect but compared to a mini mill it is. I normally build with natural edges and use a set of winding sticks.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Not really perfect but compared to a mini mill it is.

Gotcha. Any downside to the small log mill versus a bigger one other than max log size?

 

[smokinj]

Not really perfect but compared to a mini mill it is.

Gotcha. Any downside to the small log mill versus a bigger one other than max log size?

No but you can use a much larger mill on a smaller saw, so you would want to go bigger than you think you need to. There is other ways to get a mill to go wider but save that one when I find a tree big enough. Mine is a 36 inch mill on a 41 inch bar. Been max out a couple times now.