Metal Roofing as Wall Protection

[Huckleberry]

Greeting fellow burners!
I finally bought me an Englander 30-NCH last week.
I'm planning to install it in a situation where it's on a concrete slab
and nothing within 4 feet of the front, rear, or one side of the stove.
The other side, however, I'm wanting to install 16" off of a finished wall.
My plan is to use galvanized 30 gauge corrugated roofing as a heat shield.
I will attach it to the wall by using 7/8" metal furring channel
to create a space between the metal and the wall.
I will put the channel on vertically and hold everything off the
floor a couple of inches to allow convection behind the shield.
Anybody ever done this?
Better ideas welcome!
Thanks in advance!

 

[begreen]

There is no problem in doing this, but it's unnecessary. The unshielded wall clearance is 14".

 

[Huckleberry]

There is no problem in doing this, but it's unnecessary.
The unshielded wall clearance is 14".

I'm interested in where you got that number.
I'm reading it to be 20" from
side of stove to unprotected wall.
Shielding is supposed to bring that down to 12".

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/7a/7a908d23-9e1f-4cad-92d5-d0479fb9c085.pdf

 

[begreen]

You are right, it's 19". I was thinking of the rear clearance. The side clearance can be reduced to 12" with a proper shield. This can be made of sheet metal, cement board, etc. as long as it is completely non-combustible. With the wall shield in place the clearance is measured to the combustible surface behind the shield.

 

[Huckleberry]

You are right, it's 19". I was thinking of the rear clearance. The side clearance can be reduced to 12" with a proper shield. This can be made of sheet metal, cement board, etc. as long as it is completely non-combustible. With the wall shield in place the clearance is measured to the combustible surface behind the shield.

Okay, so it sounds like this should work safely.
Another concern of mine is heat transfer from
the furring channel to the combustible wall.
Could this be a problem?

 

[begreen]

I was wondering the same thing. It would be better if the hat channel was supporting a tiled wall shield on durock. You could use ceramic spacers instead.

 

[Huckleberry]

That's the better idea I think I was looking for!
I'll put 1/4" HardiBacker directly onto
the wall, then put the hat onto that.
Probably cost me an extra $20,
which is cheap peace of mind.
Thank you!

 

[begreen]

Actually I was suggesting the opposite. 1/2" Durock on top of the hat metal.

 

[Huckleberry]

Actually I was suggesting the opposite. 1/2" Durock on top of the hat metal.

So what I ended up doing was putting 1/4"
HardiBacker over inch-and-a-half hat channel,
with galvanized roofing over the Hardi.

New chimney is installed, so the only
thing left to do is install the stove itself.
It's sitting in my van on a pallet, and it's heavy.
Engineering in progress.......

 

[MAD MARK]

I know you're done now pretty much but here it what you were talking about for thought.

 

[Huckleberry]

I know you're done now pretty much but here it what you were talking about for thought.

View attachment 248702

Sort of, but mine will be able to convect air behind
it and is spaced 1 1/2" off the wall instead of 3 1/2".
And mine looks better.

 

[MAD MARK]

You asked if anyone had a "sheet metal roofing 30 awg galvanized heat shield wall that comvects air with a spacing".

I showed you that almost exactly to the word and you say sort of what I asked...

Anyways, you'll be very happy with the big 30.