Yeah change that out for sure no way it will seal right. I really prefer the olympia one the safe-t-thimble works fine the olympia one is just much easier to install
Masonry thimble questions
- Thread starter Nadroj
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With the Olympia thimble do I need to buy the rigid pipe seperatly from the thimble or does the thimble have everything needed and once I install it I just connect my stove pipe from stove into the Olympia thimble?
Get the one for the masonry chimney for your application as long as the sweep says your liner is in good shape ect. It will come with a peice of rigid stainless pipe to go through the thimble they also make one for a ss liner that comes with an extended tee snout.
Thanks b holler, looks like next step will probably be setting a date for the sweep to inspect the chimney and liner!
Had a certified sweep come out and do an inspection on the chimney. He said the chimney never appeared to be used much but did say he saw a couple hair like cracks in the liner in a couple spots probably from moisture and cold weather so he deemed it unusable. Looks like my options are to line it or rebuild it. Or I could change plans with it and just go with class a stainless.
They are supposed to give me a quote on lining it but it's gonna be way to expensive for them to do it I know. He was saying roughly $1500 to $2000 probably.
They are supposed to give me a quote on lining it but it's gonna be way to expensive for them to do it I know. He was saying roughly $1500 to $2000 probably.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
My stainless liners have cost:
$1800 = 45 feet rigid un-insulated in 1998
$1600 = 20 feet flex un-insulated in 2011
$3000 = 29 feet + 15 feet (two chimneys) smooth-wall flex with insulation in 2014
The 29 foot chimney had some serious complications.
$1800 = 45 feet rigid un-insulated in 1998
$1600 = 20 feet flex un-insulated in 2011
$3000 = 29 feet + 15 feet (two chimneys) smooth-wall flex with insulation in 2014
The 29 foot chimney had some serious complications.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
The two uninsulated liners were on oil furnaces, not wood stoves. They were also installed in terra cotta lined chimneys, in which the terra cotta liner had failed or shifted.
Ahh ok we still insulate but it is not required. It still reduces condensation and stabilizes draft so we do it.
If my flue roughly measures 7x 7 1/4 when measure the I.D at the top of my chimney will a 6" line fit in that? I'm assuming I would have to insuate a stainless liner and I would think a 6" liner with insulation would be a snug fit if even possible?
What I was figuring. I haven't heard back from the sweep as far as an estimate goes and what all there plan was to do a liner but I didnt think a 6" would fit with the clay liner. Any liners out there allow a type of insulation like vermiculite to be poured around it instead of a blanket type of insulation?
Bholler, I appreciate all the responses I've got from you, it really helps me out a lot! Thank you
Bholler, I appreciate all the responses I've got from you, it really helps me out a lot! Thank you
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
I assume you mean insulated? Wouldn't an uninsulated flex liner fit? Cap with block of plates, and fill with vermiculite, if you please.
Correct. But many times even a bare liner wont fit. It does not take mutch of an offset in a joint to cause a big problem.
No way to get enough pour in there to meet code requirements. You need 1" of insulation all the way around and you cant get that there.
As I said above yes many allow for it but require 1" of insulation for use with solid fuel. And you cant get that.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
bholler, does that vary by state / locale? I do not believe an insulated liner is code, here. Or at least, I can say I've had no less than 7 different outfits quote me an UN-insulated liner in an existing clay tile chimney. It seems, at least around here, they're only recommended for otherwise-seriously compromised chimneys.
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Well no an insulated liner is not absolutely required in every situation. But for a solid fuel burning appliance unless you have the required clearance to combustibles from the outside of the masonry structure you need a fully insulated liner. That means for an external chimney 1" space between the chimney and any combustibles and 2" for any interior chimney. I have been doing this a long time and have seen very few chimneys that actually met that requirement. And best practices tell sweeps that unless you can positively confirm the required clearances the entire length of the chimney you need to assume those clearances are not met. The condition of the chimney has absolutely no bearing on the requirement for insulation at all. So yes there are allot of guys out there who drop uninsulated liner but that does not mean it is right many of them also don't thoroughly clean the chimney before hand either or do the full level 2 inspection to check for clearances ect.
In addition to that by code you are required to install a ul listed component in accordance with its listing. And every manufacturer I have talked to about it says that their liner was only tested for solid fuel with insulation on it. So to me insulation is required for that reason as well.
For oil and gas it is not required in any cases but is recommended.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Well, been a while and no update. I had debated whether to tear the block chimney down and replace with class a or take a hand at knocking out the clay liner to put in insulated stainless flex liner. I put together a tool yesterday and put it to work this evening and got most of the liner knocked out and will finish tomorrow hopefully. If all goes well I'll add another chimney block to the top to meet the code requirement for the height and order a stainless flex liner kit with insulation and the Olympia insulated masonry thimble. I think I may veneer stone the block as well later this fall if time and finances allow.
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NateH
Member
Nadroj, this was a great post with many good questions, answers, and discussions. How did the project end up working out for you?
bholler, a few posts back you mentioned the for an interior masonry chimney there must be 2" of clearance from the outside of the masonry structure to any combustibles. Is this clearance gap meant to have high temperature capable insulation stuffed into this 2" gap? If not, wouldn't this clearance create a "hole" per say from the inside of the house to the outside? How would warm air from the house be prevented from following the chimney right through the roof?
bholler, a few posts back you mentioned the for an interior masonry chimney there must be 2" of clearance from the outside of the masonry structure to any combustibles. Is this clearance gap meant to have high temperature capable insulation stuffed into this 2" gap? If not, wouldn't this clearance create a "hole" per say from the inside of the house to the outside? How would warm air from the house be prevented from following the chimney right through the roof?
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