Martin Venturi Stove owners

[skydog]

Hello!Another newb here,long time wood burner,short time pellet burner.Just got one of these Martin stoves for free!Works good for me,sorry to see trobb have problems.mines the FS 31,got about 3 feet vertical,then 2 foot horizontal,then into masonary lined chimney 10 foot to the roof line.No problems with smoke backing up when shut down.As far as the thermostat goes, seems to kick in faster feed also as well as controling the room fan.Only been burning for about a month now,so still learning,I like it!Warren oh yeah I have a manual and parts list as well,if that's any help

 

[trobb]

Well I stuck another 5' of pipe outside...for a total of 10' vertical pipe and that must of been the magic number.
No smokey house today...knock on wood
I burnt the stove for a few hours today, cut it off and she was drawing like a champ.
Burnt it the rest of the day and no problems.
Btw: my furnace has yet to kick on today.

Thanks for all the advise...hopefully we got it right this time.

 

[skydog]

Havn't shut mine down except for cleaning,been using as only source of heat for a month and a half.Works great!

 

[pellet]

Quoting Rod:

"So you only have a problem with smoke when you shut it off?
If so it is a draft problem

Photos of your venting systems will help us.
Cell phone camera works great.

Make sure you have a rise in the horizontal pipe.
also not sure what unit you have FSII or FS III but make sure the chamber behind the firebrick that goes up into the 4" vent connector is clear.
Make sure your door, hopper lid and ash pan are sealing AIR TIGHT

I sold about 150 of them back in 1990 and 91and still have about 50 that I know of that I service and still working fine."

-


Rod/others here,

Newby here and have a Martin Venturi FS3 I'm working on. It seems there is very little info available on them and my search of nearly a year finally led me to this forum. I really need several answers to questions raised on this thread and in the work I am doing rebuilding the stove. I downloaded the manual noted in the link elsewhere in this thread for the FS31 and read it. My questions are:

1. Is the FS31 the same stove as the FS3? If not what are the differences? Is the FS3 manual available somewhere? No luck finding it.

2. The controller board has two "stoker controller" terminals that have a jumper wire across them. I'm taking a wild guess here, but was wondering if that may be the terminals that would connect to a thermostat to control the unit's burn rate as you describe elsewhere in this thread (lowers it to minimum when the stat is not calling for heat)? I'm sure I can safely bring two wires out if that is in fact what they will do.

3. I note on another thread in this forum the auger speed may be 4 rpm. Mine has a Dayton auger motor and indicates the speed is 6 rpm. Is this a problem? Not sure if it is original but looks like it could be.

4. I bought the FS3 without a room air blower or back cover. It must have quit on the last owner and was not available to see what it was. It did come with an extra blower (Dayton #2C610) which produces about 130 cfm and draws 1.02 amps. I have adapted it (with some creative sheet metal work) to the back of the stove. Is this air volume ok?

5. Another question is will the rheostat speed control handle the amperage (1.02 amps) ok on the blower above? There is some, but seems to be limited variation in the speed range of the rheostat controller on this non-original fan. I do see an adjustment pot on the rheostat, would adjusting that widen the rpm range? Or maybe it doesn't need a lot of speed range?

6. Any idea what the original room air blower was? Looks like it might have been a double ended type from the mounting studs and openings on each side under the back. None of the Dayton or Fasco blowers match the stud spacing on the stove.

7. Any idea if the back cover was vented or solid sheet metal and what it looked like?

I know this is long but I would really appreciate your help. This has been a long and unproductive search so far and you appear to be a gold mine of information for me on Martin stoves. If you or anyone else here can help it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[trobb]

Only thing I can help you with is:
The room air blower on mine is a double blower.
The back cover is solid sheet metal, but I doubt it would matter since it is open underneath.
Lastly, in the operations manuel I downloaded it shows the underfire combustion air adjustment
to be on the right side behind the outer skin...well I don't have one.
One other problem I was having was, the hoppper was getting some smoke it is.
The OG rubber seal looked good but I did replace it with a rope gasket...problem solved.

Good luck, if you can get it to draw right its a dandy stove.

Quoting Rod:

"So you only have a problem with smoke when you shut it off?
If so it is a draft problem

Photos of your venting systems will help us.
Cell phone camera works great.

Make sure you have a rise in the horizontal pipe.
also not sure what unit you have FSII or FS III but make sure the chamber behind the firebrick that goes up into the 4" vent connector is clear.
Make sure your door, hopper lid and ash pan are sealing AIR TIGHT

I sold about 150 of them back in 1990 and 91and still have about 50 that I know of that I service and still working fine."

-


Rod/others here,

Newby here and have a Martin Venturi FS3 I'm working on. It seems there is very little info available on them and my search of nearly a year finally led me to this forum. I really need several answers to questions raised on this thread and in the work I am doing rebuilding the stove. I downloaded the manual noted in the link elsewhere in this thread for the FS31 and read it. My questions are:

1. Is the FS31 the same stove as the FS3? If not what are the differences? Is the FS3 manual available somewhere? No luck finding it.

2. The controller board has two "stoker controller" terminals that have a jumper wire across them. I'm taking a wild guess here, but was wondering if that may be the terminals that would connect to a thermostat to control the unit's burn rate as you describe elsewhere in this thread (lowers it to minimum when the stat is not calling for heat)? I'm sure I can safely bring two wires out if that is in fact what they will do.

3. I note on another thread in this forum the auger speed may be 4 rpm. Mine has a Dayton auger motor and indicates the speed is 6 rpm. Is this a problem? Not sure if it is original but looks like it could be.

4. I bought the FS3 without a room air blower or back cover. It must have quit on the last owner and was not available to see what it was. It did come with an extra blower (Dayton #2C610) which produces about 130 cfm and draws 1.02 amps. I have adapted it (with some creative sheet metal work) to the back of the stove. Is this air volume ok?

5. Another question is will the rheostat speed control handle the amperage (1.02 amps) ok on the blower above? There is some, but seems to be limited variation in the speed range of the rheostat controller on this non-original fan. I do see an adjustment pot on the rheostat, would adjusting that widen the rpm range? Or maybe it doesn't need a lot of speed range?

6. Any idea what the original room air blower was? Looks like it might have been a double ended type from the mounting studs and openings on each side under the back. None of the Dayton or Fasco blowers match the stud spacing on the stove.

7. Any idea if the back cover was vented or solid sheet metal and what it looked like?

I know this is long but I would really appreciate your help. This has been a long and unproductive search so far and you appear to be a gold mine of information for me on Martin stoves. If you or anyone else here can help it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[trobb]

forgot to add...
the stoker control is for your thermostat.

plus, on my stove on the manuf plate on the side it has printed or etched into the metal "fs3" then right next to it it has
a 1 stamped with a metal stamp.

as I learn more about mine I will check in or pm you.

 

[hearthtools]

I will get back to you on some info.
but yes the stoker is for the stat.
it puts the stove to low. cant remember about free stand but I know on the insert it put the blower to low also

I have a dealer book in my storage that Im going to dig out.

 

[pellet]

Rod/firestarter:

Thanks loads for the response! It's amazing after all the searching what I am finally finding on this forum!

On the room blower…I don’t suppose you might be able to read the label for a manufacturer/part number/identification could you? I’d sure like to identify that blower. I looked long and hard with no luck. Can't seem to even find the CFM rating. My stove has four studs welded to the back and I assume they are for mounting that double ended blower. They are spaced 13 1/2 apart side to side and 1 5/8 vertically and are 10x24 threaded studs. I’m not sure if those four studs are used to mount the blower directly (my first guess but long searching hasn’t produced anything that fits) or if there is a plate of some kind used to mount the blower on first. I can’t imagine Martin using anything custom made instead of an “off the shelf” blower.

Thanks for the info on the back cover too. Now I can go ahead and make one now that I know it doesn’t require vents on the back. I plan to leave the bottom open.

My stove, like yours, doesn’t have the underfire combustion air adjustment either. I just took it apart to see. If yours is an FS31 maybe the stat capability is the difference. I know at times manufacturers just won't tell you what can be done and maybe charge more for the thermostat capability? That makes me wonder what the differences really are between the FS3 and the FS31. Rod, any thoughts here?

After reading both your comments on the stat connections I just took another look at the control board and it says right on it a little farther under where I couldn’t see readily “TSTAT”. Guess that’s pretty clear. Sometimes I just don’t pay attention. There are solder traces going to other components there too so I bet it is functional. The control board does have a connection marked “FAN” with a wire going to the rheostat and then on to the room air blower. Rod, that could drop the fan speed when the stat is not calling for heat like you said. Now I’m wondering if maybe something on the control board or rheostat might be what took out the original blower, or it may have just worn out from lack of maintenance. Any Ideas? I'd hate to ruin another blower not correcting a faulty control board or rheostat.

I just looked at the rheostat and.... again..... I'm not paying attention. It says "3.0 AMPS FL 6.0 AMPS LR 120 VOLTS AC". Looks like the rheostat will handle the 1.02 amps on the rigged in blower I have. Any idea what the FL and LR after the amps means?

I’d love to get my hands on that book you have by a scanner Rod. I’d like to study it just for the knowledge base.

What ever you guys can do will be very much appreciated.

 

[hearthtools]

Rod/firestarter:

Thanks loads for the response! It's amazing after all the searching what I am finally finding on this forum!

On the room blower…I don’t suppose you might be able to read the label for a manufacturer/part number/identification could you? I’d sure like to identify that blower. I looked long and hard with no luck. Can't seem to even find the CFM rating. My stove has four studs welded to the back and I assume they are for mounting that double ended blower. They are spaced 13 1/2 apart side to side and 1 5/8 vertically and are 10x24 threaded studs. I’m not sure if those four studs are used to mount the blower directly (my first guess but long searching hasn’t produced anything that fits) or if there is a plate of some kind used to mount the blower on first. I can’t imagine Martin using anything custom made instead of an “off the shelf” blower.

Thanks for the info on the back cover too. Now I can go ahead and make one now that I know it doesn’t require vents on the back. I plan to leave the bottom open.

My stove, like yours, doesn’t have the underfire combustion air adjustment either. I just took it apart to see. If yours is an FS31 maybe the stat capability is the difference. I know at times manufacturers just won't tell you what can be done and maybe charge more for the thermostat capability? That makes me wonder what the differences really are between the FS3 and the FS31. Rod, any thoughts here?

After reading both your comments on the stat connections I just took another look at the control board and it says right on it a little farther under where I couldn’t see readily “TSTAT”. Guess that’s pretty clear. Sometimes I just don’t pay attention. There are solder traces going to other components there too so I bet it is functional. The control board does have a connection marked “FAN” with a wire going to the rheostat and then on to the room air blower. Rod, that could drop the fan speed when the stat is not calling for heat like you said. Now I’m wondering if maybe something on the control board or rheostat might be what took out the original blower, or it may have just worn out from lack of maintenance. Any Ideas? I'd hate to ruin another blower not correcting a faulty control board or rheostat.

I just looked at the rheostat and.... again..... I'm not paying attention. It says "3.0 AMPS FL 6.0 AMPS LR 120 VOLTS AC". Looks like the rheostat will handle the 1.02 amps on the rigged in blower I have. Any idea what the FL and LR after the amps means?

I’d love to get my hands on that book you have by a scanner Rod. I’d like to study it just for the knowledge base.

What ever you guys can do will be very much appreciated.

well the best way to check to see if the board is working is just to put a meter on each terminal (one on the common and the other on fan) and turn on the switch
and see what the voltage readings are.

 

[trobb]

room blower info:
Durham
115 volt
50/60 hz
1.2 amp class b
MODEL # might be J250-112

addess on blower is
Durham Products
Div of Jakel Inc.
Durham, NC.

My auger motor is a Durham as well.
Cant tell what brand the stoker blower is.

 

[skydog]

Best I can do for now

 

[skydog]

more,sorry for the fuzzy pics,only have a web cam.Parts list only identify's the blower as #056056 blower convection air assy.

 

[pellet]

Rod - Thanks, will check the voltage as soon as I get it back together. I assume I should be seeing 120v there?

Trobb - Thanks a BUNCH for the blower info. When I got it I started checking and found out Durham was bought out by Fasco. I am now waiting for a call back from one of Fasco's divisions to see if they still produce it or a viable replacement. Will try to let everyone know what I find out.

Skydog - Thanks for the try on the parts list. It appears, as best I can make out, there is no mounting/adapter plate on the convection blower. It looks like it just bolts to the back of the stove. Sound right?

I guess I should contribute something to the knowledge base. This may provide alternate parts identification If you ever need them. Here is the info I have collected from the parts on my stove:

Martin Venturi - Model FS-3

Auger Motor:
Dayton Gearmotor Chicago, Ill., 60648 E75875 TPL LR48980 TP
Volts-115 Hz.-60 continuous duty RPM-6 Amp-1.12 9Z380A 047012 9/90 WMS

Combustion Air Fan:
Fasco Industries Inc. #7021-7616 Type U21B H.P.- 1/125 VoltS-115 Hz.-50/60 Amp-0.40/0.42 AO
Thermally Protected RPM-3030 Customer Part# 039919 Class B CJ90

Convection Air Fan (NOT ORIGINAL – MAJOR ADAPTING NECESSARY - 130 CFM AND NO IDEA HOW IT COMPARES TO THE ORIGINAL BLOWER FAN CFM):
Dayton Model 2C610 Motor(only) 4K750 Continuous duty
H.P.- 1/30 RPM- 2710/3020 Volt- 115 Hz.- 50/60 Amp -1.16/1.02 Insulation-Class A
Bower Reference# 122130V050C13G #7012-2001
Dayton Electric Manufacturing Company, Chicago, Ill. 60648

Rheostat (for Convection Fan):
KB Electronics (HK) LLC.
Model KBMS-13 BVNS
3.0 amps FL
6.0 amps LR
120 volts AC
-
Anyone have any idea what the high limit switch is?

 

[skydog]

O.K. got my old scanner hooked up let's try this,no specs given for limit switch

 

[pellet]

Don't suppose I could talk you into scanning the parts listing could I? Thanks for the parts picture....sure better than not having anything!

 

[skydog]

You asked for it!

 

[pellet]

Thanks for the parts list info. One more thing. What is your auger speed? Mine is 6 rpm but I'm not sure it is original.

 

[hearthtools]

Im a little fuzzy on details but im sure all of them were 4 RPM
i holding off on giving more info unitll I find that book.

 

[pellet]

OK, thanks. That book is some find for me. BTW, lived in Fresno for a while a couple of years ago and went thru Oakhurst quite a bit going fishing. Pretty area.

 

[hearthtools]

OK, thanks. That book is some find for me. BTW, lived in Fresno for a while a couple of years ago and went thru Oakhurst quite a bit going fishing. Pretty area.

then you drove right by my store. (when it was open)

 

[pellet]

Sorry you had to close it, you'd think there would be high demand in the area.

 

[hearthtools]

Sorry you had to close it, you'd think there would be high demand in the area.

Economy and high cost. my liablilty was over 22k per year.

Anyway I am going to work on a FsII today I will take a photo of the blower.

 

[pellet]

Thanks Rod, looking forward to it and the info in the book.

 

[pellet]

Any more info out there on these stoves? Sure would like to hear if there is.
Thanks!

 

[hearthtools]

my facebook page has photos of me cleaned a FS2 after a burn back because the Renter did not think it was important to keep the hopper lid shut
and they screwed up the gasket also. EVEN WITH THE BIG RED WARNING LABEL
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=143804&id=61927828163&ref=mf