M55 with Skytech 5301p wireless Tstat and recommended magnahelic gauge

[steveg_nh]

Oh really! Very cool! Looking at the manual, it looked like it was behind that section, back inside the fireplace itself. Awesome.

So I'll just need to slide it out for the tstat install, but hopefully not too far out to get to the two terminals. Also, I think I'm going with the UEi EM151 digital manometer.

http://www.amazon.com/Test-Instrume...=1415274489&sr=8-4&keywords=digital+manometer

After reading about all the different magnahelic gauge ranges, I figure this one fits the bill for all. I like gadgets and tools. :D

 

[steveg_nh]

I ended up going with a Supco manometer. http://www.amazon.com/Supco-DDM55-Digital-Manometer-Resolution/dp/B004OM8UCU/ref=pd_ybh_3

A little bit of everything, because I like gadgets!

 

[steveg_nh]

For those that have the 5301p, does it have an off centered shading on the display? There are like 4 rectangular boxes that are shaded that visible when it's backlit. I'm not sure of their purpose, and the numbers and images on the screen don't line up with them all. So it seems kind of weird, almost like a contrast setting is set full tilt. Does yours look like that? It's not a big deal, but curious. The unit came though looking brand new, never opened, so I think it's as designed. It's a nice unit though, I'm pleasantly surprised.

Also I can't determine from the manual where I will find the thermostat board on the stove insert. How far out does the insert have to come out for me to reach the wires? And do you just cable tie the receiver box somewhere inside the back cage?

Thanks

 

[Husky]

For those that have the 5301p, does it have an off centered shading on the display? There are like 4 rectangular boxes that are shaded that visible when it's backlit. I'm not sure of their purpose, and the numbers and images on the screen don't line up with them all. So it seems kind of weird, almost like a contrast setting is set full tilt. Does yours look like that? It's not a big deal, but curious. The unit came though looking brand new, never opened, so I think it's as designed. It's a nice unit though, I'm pleasantly surprised.

Also I can't determine from the manual where I will find the thermostat board on the stove insert. How far out does the insert have to come out for me to reach the wires? And do you just cable tie the receiver box somewhere inside the back cage?

Thanks

Not sure about the boxes on remote. I will have to look at it when I get home from work today.

For setting up the thermostat follow these steps from this link, https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...ive-to-harmans-suggested-method-as-wel.74677/ very easy. I had to pull out my stove, almost all the way,to be able to get to the connections on the temperature probe.

 

[steveg_nh]

I found some pics online, and can see it on them too. Something to do with how the LCD is built, most likely the touchscreen component. You can see it when it's backlit. Let me know though.

So if you have to pull it out far, if I can only slide it out about 12" before I'm off my hearth, you think I need some type of service rail setup before I can do this?

 

[Husky]

I found some pics online, and can see it on them too. Something to do with how the LCD is built, most likely the touchscreen component. You can see it when it's backlit. Let me know though.

So if you have to pull it out far, if I can only slide it out about 12" before I'm off my hearth, you think I need some type of service rail setup before I can do this?

Yes, I bought the service rail from the dealer. It is a bit expensive but the alternative was to make one out of 3/4" plywood and 2X4 legs. The dealer told me that many people make their own out of many different materials. Thought about making my own but decided rail was compact and was built for the job. You will have to have some way to pull out your stove to do maintenance unless your having it done for you. I figure I will be running a brush through the chimney every ton of pellets I burn. In order to do this you will need the stove out pretty far.

 

[steveg_nh]

My dealer doesn't stock it. And they seem hard to find...a pain.

I have a SS vent from the frame kit up to the top of the chimney...That must make one heck of a mess running a brush up through that. but I wondered about cleaning it. The owner's manual says every 2 tons. That's two cleanings during the season. More than I thought was needed. Unless cleaning the vent is easier than I think it is.

 

[Husky]

My dealer doesn't stock it. And they seem hard to find...a pain.

I have a SS vent from the frame kit up to the top of the chimney...That must make one heck of a mess running a brush up through that. but I wondered about cleaning it. The owner's manual says every 2 tons. That's two cleanings during the season. More than I thought was needed. Unless cleaning the vent is easier than I think it is.

Even if you only clean chimney twice, you still need to get stove out to clean other things. I was told to keep a shop vac running next to pipe when running brush up and down chimney. Have not done it yet but I'm sure it will most likely make a mess. I also have a SS liner running length of chimney.

 

[steveg_nh]

Interesting, thanks. I need to do some more research then, as I only read the weekly cleanings, and the bi annual (or 2 tons) cleaning instructions in the manual. Unless I missed something. Anyone get a set of service rails they want to sell.

 

[Bill L]

I would build a platform out of plywood and 2x lumber that matches the height of the hearth, and big enough to hold the stove. I would also use a piece of sheet metal or heavy plastic to cover both the hearth and platform so the stove wheels don't score your stone hearth.

 

[Bill L]

The m55 thermostat wires will be on the upper right back side of the stove, you will need to pull it to connect to the Skytech receiver. It is simply two wires. You need to make sure the wires go back around the frame s they don't get pinched when you push the stove back in.

I also just did my first liner cleaning after one season (4 tons). I used the gardus soot eater, with additional rods to reach the top. The soot eater comes with 9 feet of rods, and I got three additional 6 foot extensions(3 foot rod lengths). This worked great, but it is a bit messy. I put a drop cloth on the fire box, and a cardboard box under the vent. A bunch of black soot will drop each time you spin a section of rod up with a cordless drill. The mess in the fire box was not so much the issue as the cloud of soot dust each time the soot would drop out.

 

[steveg_nh]

How do the chimney guys don't do cleanly? Before the pellet stove when the chimney was leaned there was never a mess. Pretty impressive really.

 

[Husky]

For those that have the 5301p, does it have an off centered shading on the display? There are like 4 rectangular boxes that are shaded that visible when it's backlit. I'm not sure of their purpose, and the numbers and images on the screen don't line up with them all. So it seems kind of weird, almost like a contrast setting is set full tilt. Does yours look like that? It's not a big deal, but curious. The unit came though looking brand new, never opened, so I think it's as designed. It's a nice unit though, I'm pleasantly surprised.

Also I can't determine from the manual where I will find the thermostat board on the stove insert. How far out does the insert have to come out for me to reach the wires? And do you just cable tie the receiver box somewhere inside the back cage?

Thanks

Just checked my remote. There are some back shading behind the display when it is back lighted. They are very faint on my remote. I had to look real close.

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks for checking.

 

[steveg_nh]

when you check the draft pressure, you do it with the screw removed, but door closed right?

 

[steveg_nh]

Also, when hooking up the tstat, do you have to remove any panels or anything, or is the board/wires exposed in the back in the open?

 

[Husky]

Also, when hooking up the tstat, do you have to remove any panels or anything, or is the board/wires exposed in the back in the open?

It is exposed right behind panel. You do not have to remove panel. I did when I was looking for sensor connector and then had to put it back on wasting time. Just follow the sensor probe wire and you will see the two connectors in easy sight.

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks. I really want to get this installed.

I ended up returning the digital manometer I bought too. Seemed no better then the $40 ones on ebay. I ended up just getting the same Dwyer magahelic posted above.

 

[steveg_nh]

I picked up my service rails today, so the Tstat goes in tomorrow morning. Anyone know - is there a jumper connecting the two tstat wires on the M55 prior to a tstat hookup? Will I have to remove that jumper (if it's there), or are the wires not connected from the factory? I read some brands have a jumper on the tstat. Just trying to know what I can before I get in there. Thanks

 

[Bill L]

My dealer installed mine, so not sure if there is a jumper or not. The picture of the wires in the manual indicates there is not one. When you connect the wires, make sure you route the wires through the BACK of the frame and around the right leg to the front. If you go to the side with the unit pulled out the wires will get pinched in the frame when you push it back in. The receiver has an overheat sensor so you want to keep it on the floor of the hearth just behind the apron to keep it cool.

 

[Skier76]

Steve,
Let us know how you like the rails. I'm considering getting a set. I was able to use some wood to support the stove when I pulled it out of the fireplace. I'm stating the obvious, it's a heavy stove. I'm sure the rails will help.

No jumper as far as I can tell. The tech hooked mine up; all beit poorly. He cut the spades off and electrical taped it. And he didn't mind Bill Ls advice. When the stove was Installed, the wires pulled out. So I had to redo the wiring last Saturday. Explained why my t stat didn't work when I hooked it up.

Here's a link with pics:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/figured-out-my-thermostat-issue.135622

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks guys. It was a piece of cake actually. The rails are FANTASTIC. So easy. Clip them on and it slides right out. 10 minutes tops to get it out now that I know how to assemble the rails and hook them on. They are purpose built, well made and in my opinion worth the $120 or so bucks.

Anyway for the Tstat the two red wires were obvious. I hooked them up and set the receiver on the bottom frame of the stove. Can't imagine it gets that hot there given all the electronics. Here's a pic.

(broken image removed)

I also checked out the vent pipe for cleaning (there's a clean out hole at the bottom) and I installed my surge protector.

Then slid it back in and fired it up. But something seems wrong. On either Auto/Off or Hi/Lo the flame was very small and blower low like the stove was running on 1 even though it showed 4. Tstat had a 6 degree temp separation so it should have been calling for high heat. Once I switched it to manual the blower immediately jumped back up for a proper level 4 heat setting and the flame got to the right size.

Maybe I switched the switches at the wrong time when setting it up? I'm 99% sure I left the Tstat receiver on the proper setting. What's the proper initial startup method when having hooked up the Tstat?

Thanks

 

[Skier76]

Sounds like the rails are worth the investment. I'm now thinking I should get a set.

When the t-stat isn't calling for heat, the stove goes into "low" mode. When it calls for heat, it goes into whatever setting you have it set to. I'm using the oem t stat and it works OK. The swing setting is a little wonky, but it works good enough for now. But the stove should kick up to 4 for you when it calls for heat.

Any luck now that it's been running for awhile?

 

[steveg_nh]

Does it actually change the setting you see on the control panel? For example, mine showed running on 4, but it sounded like and looked like a 1.

I had it on manual all day too, so not sure. I had to leave and didn't want the house to be cold when I got home.

Anything special about changing the tstat switch on the stove? Must the stove be off and cooled down first?

 

[Skier76]

It should run the setting you have on the control pannel when it calls for heat. When it doesn't call for heat, it goes onto low mode.

I didn't see anything in the manual about shutting the stove down when toggling between settings. Is the temp separating you mentioned similar to a swing setting on a thermostat?