m-55c-fs "ISSUES"

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Mine is a series 2000-0 with a max of .50 but a 2000-00 has max .25. Either works. I read by using tubing from the gauge to a piece of copper tubing that fits inside of the screw hole. I can take a picture later if necessary.

Thanks for all the helpful info. If you can take a picture, that would be great. One thing I have noticed, is that the glass hasn't turned black. Just the usual white on the upper right side
 
So I cleaned the unit Friday and noticed the damper is loose and the screw is not flush. Should it be? Where should I position damper to start and should it be able to slide freely. I have it closer to outside unit. I also see the 1/8 hole for the mag gaugr
 
Here are the pics [Hearth.com] m-55c-fs  "ISSUES"(broken image removed)(broken image removed)
 
So I cleaned the unit Friday and noticed the damper is loose and the screw is not flush. Should it be? Where should I position damper to start and should it be able to slide freely. I have it closer to outside unit. I also see the 1/8 hole for the mag gaugr
my damper is the same way.it is meant to be that way so you can make the adjustment.all the m55s soot up on the top right of the door.the better the pellet the less it will build up.do you know how to get to the exhaust passage on the inside of the stove.if so, measure the opening of the slider damper from inside the stove.right now judging from your pics your damper is open all the way.if thats where it needs to be then thats ok but you are loosing a lot of heat up the chimney stack with it being wide open.flame will also be very aggressive and low with that setting.i set mine with a magna gauge and the opening on the inside of the stove is at 1.5 inches.hope this helps
 
my damper is the same way.it is meant to be that way so you can make the adjustment.all the m55s soot up on the top right of the door.the better the pellet the less it will build up.do you know how to get to the exhaust passage on the inside of the stove.if so, measure the opening of the slider damper from inside the stove.right now judging from your pics your damper is open all the way.if thats where it needs to be then thats ok but you are loosing a lot of heat up the chimney stack with it being wide open.flame will also be very aggressive and low with that setting.i set mine with a magna gauge and the opening on the inside of the stove is at 1.5 inches.hope this helps

Thanks corkman,
Ill try your setting to see how it runs.
 
Angler. re: the dark soot on the window, check your door gasket. Mine was producing dark soot there. Gasket in that area failed the dollar bill test. I carefully squeezed it to fluff it and now no dark soot on the glass. New gasket ordered.
 
that should be a good starting point.from there if the flame looks a little lazy just open damper a little more.if its short and brisk then close it a bit more.
 
hmm, still overheating, i see.

well that's no good.

i see these as the possible causes:

1) bad switch tripping at the wrong temp - cheap to replace.
2) small pellets fall faster than designed and overheating - find a longer pellet and try it.
3) bad motherboard turning the auger motor faster than it should - there is a sheet somewhere with the specs on how many times the auger should turn at which setting. you could count the revolutions on the auger motor if you can view it from behind the stove to see if it matches the specs.

if you still have warranty, let the dealer figure it out then or just give you the parts, especially if it is the motherboard.
 
Auger spins for about two minutes every thirty minutes on a premium setting on my stove. The norm from whar I believe I read somewhere on the threads here.
 
Remember to prep the stove for summer when you are done burning. Crap happens if you don't.
 
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