Lopi Large Flush Wood: my installation experience (including block-off plate).

[yuryk]

First of all, I would like to thank this community. Without it I would simply end up with a regular non-insulated 6 inches liner and no block-off plate - that's for sure. So I am very thankful to everyone who ever posted here and to those who replied to my posts directly. THANK YOU! For the reference at the very bottom of the post I put a list of threads I started/replied to, that helped me with my questions.

Two days ago I've had my Large Flush Wood insert finally installed, despite starting my journey back in February. Back then I asked for a first quote. I thought it's going to be a fireplace store nearby, but it turned out to be another one, because only that one agreed to use an insulated liner and gave me a reasonable price overall, even though installation was still pretty expensive (over 2k). Here is how it looks now (before/after):

Now a little bit of details:

I. Choosing the model: I went with Next-Gen Fyre, i.e. the one without catalytic combustor. It had a 1k rebate, plus I wanted to avoid headache of changing the cat every once in a while.

II. Insulated liner: At first the installer ordered regular liner with 1/4" insulation, which proved to be against the code. So I insisted on a 1/2" insulation and ended up ordering a pre-insulated liner (see pic below), so they installed it:

Although, in order to save the fireplace back wall, we opted for a 30 degree stove connector and oval to round adapter:

I have asked them to insulate part of that oval adapter and they used insulation from unused part of that pre-insulated liner, so it looked like this:

And when it entered the fireplace it looked like this:

So, as you might see, some part of it remains uninsulated, I really hope this is not a big issue...

III. Block-off Plate: I decided to go with aluminum to avoid fumes from the galvanized steel. After asking Travis Industries directly, it turned out that it might be happening with the outer shell temp it reaches. But even if not - I waned to be on the save side. So what I did was:

• Bought a 0.033in thick aluminium (about 20 gauge) of size 48x30". It was not easy to find a place that has it, because home improvement shops either did not have it or had it too thin/short. But I found a local sheet metal manufacturer who, I plan working with again)
• Made few carton board plates to see how it fits. Added 1 inch on each side for folding as this forum instruction recommends:
  
  
  
• Using final board cut a plate. I bought aviation shears, but they were very hard on the metal, so I ended up using a jigsaw (BLACK+DECKER 4.5-Amp Variable Speed Keyless Corded Jigsaw for $30) - it did the job perfectly!
  
  
• Using a 2x4, my hands in gloves, hammer with rubber cover and two 4-inch fixating clamps - I have bent the plate from 4 sides to make the attachment flaps:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Drilled 3 holes in the back flap and 2 holes on each side flap using a 3/16 drill bit:
  
  
• Used 2 ribbons from sides (for easier removal) I put the plate in place, then drilled holes in the bricks through holes in the plate, using a 5/32 masonry drill bit:
  
  
• Waited for the installer to put the stove and liner - then made a hole after confirming with him that this is where he needs it to be:
  
  
• Cut out some mineral wood (Thermafiber R13) to put on top of the plate:
  
  
  
• When stove was out and liner installed - I have installed my plate with Mineral Wool R13 on top, using 3/16 masonry screws:
  
  
• Then sticked some more mineral wool between the liner and the plate (opening)::
  
  
  
• Then the installer struggled for 2 hours, trying different methods, but could not connect it to the stove, probably swearing a lot on that plate. I then asked if there are any issues and he said that the plate had to be removed for him to install. Then I have offered to move the hole closer to the other end, as I offered initially, so he agreed, and I made the change, then reinstalled the plate:
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Then they were able to successfully install it. Although, it seems that the oval adapter was bent pretty hard, but I hope it's nothing and it would work fine:
  
  

IV. Final result: As you already saw, it looks amazing:

I can't wait for the winter. I know I need to order and season some wood first, I did not have a chance to do it yet, but will definitely do soon. I have asked if we need to test it and the installer burned small piece of a firestarter, showing that the draft is there and everything is fine. It's really hot right now, so I don't think I want to run it for the curing just yet... I think I will wait for October to do so...

Please let me know if you see/think about any concerns/issues/suggestions - everything is welcome!

And, once again - I can't thank you all enough for providing a lot of knowledge. Hopefully, this post contributes as well and helps someone else in the future. THANK YOU!

____________________________________________________________
List of threads I started/replied to, that helped me with my questions:

• Lopi Evergreen: old vs new hybrid model
• Fireplace xtrordinair or Lopi Large hybrid vs NexGen Fyre
• Does my fireplace chimney flue look good for installing a wood stove insert with a flue? (just swept it)
• Installer brings regular liner+insulation for the "insulated liner" request. Is it normal?
• Blockoff plate: how to attach a larger patch piece to the plate, which is already in place?
• Block-off Plate: would aluminum work or only steel is needed?

 

[stoveliker]

That looks just fantastic! Nice and tight lines.
I like it!

Great post also with pics for others! Way to pay it forward!


Regarding wood; you can also buy a pallet of compressed sawdust logs. I think Tractor Supply has a brand (I keep forgetting the brands that are around here in the NorthEast. In the NorthWest there are the NEILS.
As long as there are no additives (wax etc.) in there, it's good.
They are dry, but need to be stored inside (not outside under a tarp).

Enjoy this winter!

 

[begreen]

That's a big change. It looks good in there. One thing, afaik there is no metal tape rated for flue temps.

 

[yuryk]

Thank you guys! I will be posting in this thread as soon as I start using this beast

you can also buy a pallet of compressed sawdust logs

Interesting, I never heard of it! How is it compared to dry wood? Both price-wise and efficiency-wise?

there is no metal tape rated for flue temps.

Yeah, I noticed the tape too. I have actually asked the installer out of curiosity: aren't you going to use furnace cement here? He said that he already used it inside in the connection, so it's not needed in there. Do you think it might burn off? Worst case I guess I can remove the panels and replace that tape with something else...

 

[begreen]

Interesting, I never heard of it! How is it compared to dry wood? Both price-wise and efficiency-wise?

There are several past threads on this topic. Read the reviews for BioBricks, ECO Bricks, Northern Idaho Energy logs (NIELs) and Home Fire's Post-Logs here:

Fuel Facts

Fuel Facts

www.hearth.com

 

[Freyja]

Whoa baby..your unit looks fantastic and looking forward for updates on your operational experiences.....During my curing the door insulation did pull away and yes I did open the door per manual during the process....Dealer repaired the door insulation under warranty...My fan failed and was replaced as well...Good Luck with your new dragon!

 

[yuryk]

Finally it was below 70 yesterday and I couldn't wait any longer! I used yesterday evening to cure the paint and officially meet mister Large Flush

Long story short: this is far beyond my expectations! I did not test the heating efficiency since all my windows were open and a third-party standing fan tried to circulate the air (odor was awful and pretty strong), but I tried the fan - very powerful thing I must say. But boy what a spectacle! I always loved watching and making fire, but this is simply next level... Far more entertaining than a regular bonfire in my view. I liked everything - bringing the wood, loading the stove, starting the fire, watching it and playing with air intake. I expected to spend max 2 hours for that, but instead spent whole evening and half a night

I did not expect it to work from the first try, frankly. With open bypass and air intake damper I used a piece of newspaper to warm up the flue for about 30 seconds (it might have been wrong, I just remember reading about it somewhere), then lit newspaper below the kindling with few logs on top of it. Then kept the door open for few minutes. When I closed it, the box filled with smoke (despite open bypass) - I thought I failed and it's going to be inside of the house any minute, but opening/closing the air intake damper somehow helped it and the box cleared with a nice fire. I then being impatient shut the air intake damper again to see the secondaries, but it resulted in smoke again - I now know I should have waited longer to warm up the system. But after that everything was pretty smooth.

Here is the video of curing - you can see the vapor coming from the stove. At first I thought it's smoke from the fire, but when I smelled it - I realized it's paint. As I mentioned, the smell was pretty bad and in the whole house, so I used my respirator while putting family to the bedroom

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Then I enjoyed steady burning:

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Then shut the air intake damper to watch amazing show of the secondary combustion:

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Then played with slow-high-slow burns and again enjoyed those secondaries:

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Then I looked at my watch and it was 2am! This was my first burn. Pretty satisfying, so I wanted to share it with you right away.

Now I need to learn a lot about how to burn properly. For example, I was under impression that I could do those slow/overnight burns 24/7, i.e. reload for overnight again and again if it's cold outside... But it seems like during the day it should be different? Wondering why I can't use overnight burns all the time... Or another one: why secondary combustion is only visible when air intake is shut off? Why those gasses don't burn during normal burn at the top? Anyway, will be reading a lot about it now to prepare for winter.

Will be posting photos/videos here from time to time.

Thank you again everyone - if not this forum and your knowledge - I would be sitting either without a stove or with a non-insulated liner and no block-off plate. Trust me - I'll be thinking about you guys during every burn I'll be forever grateful to you for your help!

 

[yuryk]

Just did another test burn, using a kiln dried wood and documented it in this post. Also, that thread has some photos from a previous burn of not too dry wood. Trying to keep it all in one place for those interested.

 

[yuryk]

I'm more and more in love with my wood stove insert! And I guess knowing it better and better with every new burn:

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies