Lopi Endeavor getting up to temp

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I will check out the Manufacturer, Excel I believe , for both the Double wall and the Class A pipe.
In The mean time... is there any correlation, between the outside Temp of a double wall pipe and the inner pipe? like 2:1 or something?
Probably not... far too many variables I think.
 
I will check out the Manufacturer, Excel I believe , for both the Double wall and the Class A pipe.
In The mean time... is there any correlation, between the outside Temp of a double wall pipe and the inner pipe? like 2:1 or something?
Probably not... far too many variables I think.
You are correct. Too many variables.
 
Well Guys hear you go... it does not void any Warranty :)
now I need to learn how to properly use a probe thermometer before I install it.
Plus my inside pipe does go at an angle.... Any precautions there as far as the installation?

Here's my response from the Manufacturer

[Hearth.com] Lopi Endeavor getting up to temp
 
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Well Guys hear you go... it does not void any Warranty :)
now I need to learn how to properly use a probe thermometer before I install it.
Plus my inside pipe does go at an angle.... Any precautions there as far as the installation?

Here's my response from the Manufacturer

View attachment 256177
Here is a pic of the pipe angle
[Hearth.com] Lopi Endeavor getting up to temp
 
Suppose it would be ok to install the Condar from the side, as long as I get it centered?
 
Suppose it would be ok to install the Condar from the side, as long as I get it centered?
I don't see why not; As long as it is close to the middle of the pipe, it should work. Did you get it yet..what did the instructions say for how far above the flue collar to install it?
 
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Haven't gotten it yet... online it says at least 18".... but I have read here you should be closer to 24"...
 
Somewhere in the 18-24" range is normal. 24" brings it closer to eye level.
 
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Somewhere in the 18-24" range is normal. 24" brings it closer to eye level.
There's going to be a sizeable difference in the readings you get with a 6" difference in mounting height, right?
I guess I could test it with the surface flue meter that I can look at, then double temps.
So I guess there's really no point in a user trying to compare flue (or stove top) temps with what another user reports on the forum, even with the same stove...too many variables.
When I look at the surface meter at 15" on my SIL's T5, I see maybe 350 (if I've managed to get a low burn,) which would be about 700 on a flue probe. I thought you were reporting like 250-300 flue probe temps when cruising, at 24" up, correct? That just sounds way lower than what I'm seeing..
 
I haven't reported any flue temps thus far... I haven't installed the probe thermometer yet.
I generally run 350 to 600 on the stove top... depending on the cycle of the burn.... etc. I was just asking about installing that probe on the side of the stove pipe as it angles... I think I would probably try about 24" up... then I guess I will have to figure out what is normal for me.
Sorry if I made it confusing.

You guys have all got me going in the right direction on running my stove, I am sure of that. And Many thanks for that!, Cause I was struggling.
 
I think I would probably try about 24" up... then I guess I will have to figure out what is normal for me.
That's exactly what I was thinking, but forgot to put it at the end of my post. Whatever temps we see, we're just gonna use those to run our individual stoves, noting temp changes and adjusting accordingly regardless of how those temps compare to what others are reporting.
 
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Yes Sir... I think this is more of an art than science.. (of course science is obviously involved) . And as many have said... each installation is unique. I am just thrilled to be farther along in the learning stage :)
 
I got my Condar Fluegard Today, Installed it, (About 24" up the pipe on the slope , 25.5 " on the vertical).

I gotta hand it to all of you... this is the way to go!

If I could only have 1 gauge of temp... it would be the one in the Flue.
The wood I am burning is Marginal, 18% on the face , and 22% after a fresh split.
I can maintain a 450 degree stove top and a 700 degree flue temp and use less wood than I ever have.
I am sure I can crank it up if desired, but following the flue temp is a far more efficient method for me.

Many Many Thanks to all of you. (Especially begreen)
Here's what it looks like

[Hearth.com] Lopi Endeavor getting up to temp [Hearth.com] Lopi Endeavor getting up to temp
 
I got my Condar Fluegard Today, Installed it, (About 24" up the pipe on the slope , 25.5 " on the vertical).

I gotta hand it to all of you... this is the way to go!

If I could only have 1 gauge of temp... it would be the one in the Flue.
The wood I am burning is Marginal, 18% on the face , and 22% after a fresh split.
I can maintain a 450 degree stove top and a 700 degree flue temp and use less wood than I ever have.
I am sure I can crank it up if desired, but following the flue temp is a far more efficient method for me.

Many Many Thanks to all of you. (Especially begreen)
Here's what it looks like

View attachment 256583View attachment 256584
And Woddy Stover !
 
There's going to be a sizeable difference in the readings you get with a 6" difference in mounting height, right?
Not necessarily so at that point.
 
I can maintain a 450 degree stove top and a 700 degree flue temp and use less wood than I ever have.
With good dry wood I think you will find a better equilibrium of about a 600º stovetop and 600º probe flue temp due to less primary air required and better secondary combustion.
 
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With good dry wood I think you will find a better equilibrium of about a 600º stovetop and 600º probe flue temp due to less primary air required and better secondary combustion.
I totally agree...
Right now the stove is running 550 degrees (IR at the Center) 575 on the stove magnetic... about 650 on the Condar...
Just lazy flames and pretty decent secondary happening... Definitely one the best i have done so far.
It's working... and I am learning :)
 
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I totally agree...
Right now the stove is running 550 degrees (IR at the Center) 575 on the stove magnetic... about 650 on the Condar...
Just lazy flames and pretty decent secondary happening... Definitely one the best i have done so far.
It's working... and I am learning :)
Ooops ... make that 475 on the magnetic stove top thermometer
 
Right now the stove is running 550 degrees (IR at the Center) 575 on the stove magnetic... about 650 on the Condar...
Just lazy flames and pretty decent secondary happening... Definitely one the best i have done so far.
It's working... and I am learning :)
Sounds good! :cool: You been keeping an eye on the stack for smoke? I haven't run the stove myself enough yet, to see how I have to load the various lighter and denser splits, to keep the clean burn going..
 
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Sounds good! :cool: You been keeping an eye on the stack for smoke? I haven't run the stove myself enough yet, to see how I have to load the various lighter and denser splits, to keegreesp the clean burn going..
Through out the day... When the condar is reading 500 to 600 degrees there is a very light wisp of grey smoke occasionally, 600 to750 degrees.... nothing but heat waves from the stack. it's 24 outside and 73 in the house upstairs. Downstairs it's closer to 78 degrees.
I can't wait to try this with some really good wood, to see the difference, but I am happy with what I am getting so far.
Propane delivered yesterday... only used 6o gal since 12/11/2019. :)
 
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Through out the day... When the condar is reading 500 to 600 degrees there is a very light wisp of grey smoke occasionally, 600 to750 degrees.... nothing but heat waves from the stack. it's 24 outside and 73 in the house upstairs. Downstairs it's closer to 78 degrees.
I can't wait to try this with some really good wood, to see the difference, but I am happy with what I am getting so far.
Propane delivered yesterday... only used 6o gal since 12/11/2019. :)
Now when it is pretty much coals in there the Condar reads maybe 450 degrees , stack is still nothing but heat waves. I am assuming... and maybe I am wrong... that when you are at the stage where you are reducing the coals to ash there is not much danger of creosote, since there is no smoke in there? So I do not pay much attention to the Condar zones at that time, I just give it a little more air and let her get down to reloading temp... which for me is about 200 maybe 250 ( on the stove top)
 
Yes, once the fire has reached the coaling stage all the volatiles have been burned off. There is no smoke or worry about creosote at that stage. If you want to hustle the coal burn down and get a little more heat, put a couple 2" splits on the fire and open the air halfway.
 
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Yes, once the fire has reached the coaling stage all the volatiles have been burned off. There is no smoke or worry about creosote at that stage. If you want to hustle the coal burn down and get a little more heat, put a couple 2" splits on the fire and open the air halfway.
Yes Sir , That is what I do... I get all the coals towards the front... then put a split east west across the front as close to the door as I can... and open the air up to around 50%... really works great to reduce the coal pile down, and get some additional heat.
I am pretty sure I learned that trick on this site....
 
I just wanted to Thank everyone on this site.
Having completed my first season of burning, I just had the dealer come out and do an inspection and sweep.
There was less than a cup of fine gray fly ash in the whole chimney system. So thanks to all of your tips, I must be doing ok!
Thanks to all!
 
Well done. It sounds like you've got the hang of it and are burning dry wood. Hopefully not so grumpy now too.