Looking to upgrade to wood furnace!

[hbryant123]

I appreciate all the great opinions and information. I'm glad to have joined a group who enjoys wood heat!

 

[brenndatomu]

I would not suggest a pre epa model if for no other reason than a lack of a viewing window!

Except the Englander 28-3500...

 

[Highbeam]

Except the Englander 28-3500...

Not even that. That old thing has manual air control only and no baffle or secondary system. It’s like an old fisher stove. The newer version should be like the nc30 stove with a blower cabinet. The nc30 is a good stove. Clean burning and robust.

 

[brenndatomu]

Not even that. That old thing has manual air control only and no baffle or secondary system. It’s like an old fisher stove. The newer version should be like the nc30 stove with a blower cabinet. The nc30 is a good stove. Clean burning and robust.

I meant the window...pre EPA and had a window.
And yes it had no secondary air, but I don't remember hearing of anyone that was burning dry wood complain of it being excessively dirty...don't remember hearing many complaints at all about them.
And I also suggested the 28-4000 (NC-30 based furnace)

 

[Wood1Dennis]

Don't pass on the PSG Caddy. Per the website it looks like they are now 2020 EPA compliant. You won't find them at the big box stores, but find a local dealer they can help you with the install, that is what we did. We had a turn key installation with new construction that I am very happy with.

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www.caddyfurnaces.com

Ours is a 2016 model, standard Caddy heating 1700 square feet in Wisconsin. I'm guessing you would be fine with the Caddy, or maybe even the mini-Caddy. Ours is a simple installation, basically it is in series with the LP furnace using the LP furnace fan. It has been trouble free, very easy to use and burns really clean.

 

[Highbeam]

Don't pass on the PSG Caddy. Per the website it looks like they are now 2020 EPA compliant.

I just checked and no, the has not made the list so not certified 2020 compliant yet. Just the kuma and the fire chief.

 

[brenndatomu]

Don't pass on the PSG Caddy. Per the website it looks like they are now 2020 EPA compliant.

Where did you see that? Their website still shows the same emission numbers that they have had for years...which is not low enough to meet 2020.
To OP, the Tundra/Heatmax II are same basic units as the Caddy...kind of a Chevy/Caddillac kind of relationship....that and the Caddy has to come from and be installed by a dealer, as was mentioned.

 

[brenndatomu]

Just the kuma and the fire chief.

Kuuma, not Kuma...2 different companies/products.
And while Firechief is still "on the list", they are being made to re-test using the proper procedures this time...they won't "pass" again.

 

[JRHAWK9]

Where did you see that? Their website still shows the same emission numbers that they have had for years...which is not low enough to meet 2020.

Guessing he saw this:

Clever "marketing" on their part. LOL

 

[hbryant123]

OK i think for now i am going to work on this project section at a time, i think the chimney should be the first, were is a good site to order pieces and parts from, i have two sections of 6 inch that should be plenty to get to the basement, i know i will need a 6 inch connector for the two pipes, do they sell a material to wrap the pipe before i send it down the chimney?? or since its already inside the brick chimney is that necessary? also what is the best way to bring the pip out of the chimney in the basement? i have a concrete, saw diamond blades etc i wanna set it up to be easily cleaned out as needed. thanks in advance

 

[brenndatomu]

Guessing he saw this:
View attachment 259916

Clever "marketing" on their part. LOL

Hmm...yeah, I dunno about clever, more like sneaky...misleading...if they had already passed, they would have it plastered all over the place, not just some obscure little blurb in the corner that is mentioned nowhere else.

 

[brenndatomu]

do they sell a material to wrap the pipe before i send it down the chimney?? or since its already inside the brick chimney is that necessary? also what is the best way to bring the pip out of the chimney in the basement?

There are a ton of different places to buy chimney liners and chimney liner accessories...you'll just have to find one that you like that has the pieces you need...lots of good ones out there...might even catch some sales prices from now until late summer.
You'll want to buy a liner insulation kit...and yes, even with being in a masonry chimney...it will provide better draft that way, stay cleaner longer, and make for a safer install. (and in many places it takes insulation to meet code)
And what you need is a tee to come through the chimney/wall.
As far as cleaning...the easiest way is to clean the liner from the top...and then just take the stovepipe off to clean it, once its off you can suck the soot from cleaning the liner out of the bottom of the tee with a shopvac.
Keep in mind if you go with an EPA unit, and feed it truly dry wood, (under 20% MC) then you probably only need to clean the chimney once per year...much less than with most old school fireboxes...

 

[maple1]

I would definitely want my chimney to be insulated. No matter how I was burning wood.

There is also the question of how truly clean your chimney was before the uninsulated liner was put in. If it wasn't, you would want to make sure it is - potential fire hazard there. Then there is the other related question of proper clearance between the chimney & what surrounds it.

 

[JRHAWK9]

Hmm...yeah, I dunno about clever, more like sneaky...misleading...if they had already passed, they would have it plastered all over the place, not just some obscure little blurb in the corner that is mentioned nowhere else.

I agree, hence the marketing in quotes.