Looking for a large woodburning insert - Decided on Large Flush Arch by FireplaceX

[laxin213]

Sorry you busted out on this. We have the large insert new this year and really like it so far. Hope you can fix the chimney issue. Maybe a tile breaker from the top down?

I looked up tile breakers a bit. I need to go through cinder blocks not sure if it would be long enough, and from that point up is like a solid 20' so I'm not sure if there would be too much torque on it. Also don't they usually break clay tiles? Strong enough? I'm having another stone/ brick union mason come out hopefully this week to look at it. The stove shop basically is ready to refund my deposit and I'm just totally bummed out...

After that I plan to try to find a local chimney sweep that is experienced take a look. I also had another stove shop from the other end of town come out and give an estimate on a Hearthstone Clydesdale - and he said no go based on the smoke chamber tile issue.

 

[awest74]

Guys, I'm back had a go with a few local stores and most came in around 5500 after all the negotiatins both sides could stand. As it turns out I already have an 8" liner the fully length of my chimeny and a cap, so have decided to save the 1800 they were charging for installation and do it myself. The company I got the stove from, for ~3700.00 ( including delvery, tax etc...) is providing the 8" to 6" converter, a length of 6" liner and the coupling to the stove. It does mean that I also will have to drill a 1" hole through the back of my fireplace for the power and compressor, which will then angle down and into the basement for noise reduction. I take delivery on Wednesday and will most likely get to the install on the weekend, wish me luck, I send any advice you have!

I plan to install the coupling, some roxul then a blocking plate.

One questions, did everyone use masony seal ( or whatever it is called) on all unions? The installer I talked to said it wasnt necessary.

 

[FPX Dude]

I newly own the same FPX, can't help you with the flue issues, but I can tell you now that TV has to move! Mine is slightly different, plain front. I am very happy with it.

But the heat generated will melt the TV.

Good luck with the install.

View attachment 142159

TV will be just fine, the blower and the mantle will deflect any heat and concerns you have. Here's mine https://www.hearth.com/gall/v/WoodStoves/heartcomfireplace.jpg.html

 

[Renjilj]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Bought one!

We settled on a FireplaceX Large Flush Arch. Its made by Travis industries, same company that makes Lopi and Avalon. I wasn't too keen on the lack of projection into the room, but the guy showed me how it's like channeled to funnel warm air into the room even if the blower is off ( I attached a pic of this from the brochure). 3.0 cubic foot firebox, up to 24" logs, 80.3% efficient, and really low emissions like .5g (although I'm sure thats with some Frankenstein log that I'll never burn) and 12 hour burn time also swayed me. The boss liked the looks a lot, and they have an "Artisan" hand hammered face that costs like $300 more (rip off - boss wanted it), but the dealer gave me a couple discounts and I had a coupon from their website for $100 off...Long standing stove shop, good local reputation, CSIA certified (thanks Begreen for showing me that on another thread) ... It has a pretty decent warranty (a lot better than the VC). Due to install in about a month, I'll add pictures then. Thanks again everyone.

Check the fine print on the front clearance carefully - 16" typical in US (18" Canada) UNLESS a flush hearth (<3"H)... In my case, jumped to 29" with R2 requirement!!

 

[Grisu]

I looked up tile breakers a bit. I need to go through cinder blocks not sure if it would be long enough, and from that point up is like a solid 20' so I'm not sure if there would be too much torque on it. Also don't they usually break clay tiles? Strong enough? I'm having another stone/ brick union mason come out hopefully this week to look at it. The stove shop basically is ready to refund my deposit and I'm just totally bummed out...

After that I plan to try to find a local chimney sweep that is experienced take a look. I also had another stove shop from the other end of town come out and give an estimate on a Hearthstone Clydesdale - and he said no go based on the smoke chamber tile issue.

I understand your frustration; I would not have felt any different. If there is no way of cutting out those grates I guess you are left with two options:
1) Put a freestanding stove somewhere else with its own chimney.
2) Put a stove in front of the fireplace and try to access the chimney above that grate. Similar to this:
(broken image removed)
Both are probably not what you wanted but you will at least have a stove in your home.

 

[bren582]

hearthstone Clydesdale gets my vote, I love it as does the wife,

 

[Alan W]

I newly own the same FPX, can't help you with the flue issues, but I can tell you now that TV has to move! Mine is slightly different, plain front. I am very happy with it.

But the heat generated will melt the TV.

Good luck with the install.

View attachment 142159

We have the same fireplace, and have a large picture hanging directly overhead. Does not get hot- no need to move the TV.

 

[brenndatomu]

Anyone know of a really long demo hammer bit anywhere?

If it were me I'd be a cuttin n a weldin some extensions. Might not be pretty, but at the end of the day I'd have a big chimney liner shaped hole up through there! Find a welding or fab shop that would be willing to tackle this.

Another idea, call a concrete cutting/drilling service, heck, they may have just whats needed right on the truck, might cost ya a few hundred bucks but hey, mama wants a wood fire, right?! They may be able to bore a perfectly round hole up through there, I've seen these guys cut huge holes in some really thick concrete in some really...well, less than ideal situations! Worth a phone call anyways

 

[laxin213]

If it were me I'd be a cuttin n a weldin some extensions. Might not be pretty, but at the end of the day I'd have a big chimney liner shaped hole up through there! Find a welding or fab shop that would be willing to tackle this.

Another idea, call a concrete cutting/drilling service, heck, they may have just whats needed right on the truck, might cost ya a few hundred bucks but hey, mama wants a wood fire, right?! They may be able to bore a perfectly round hole up through there, I've seen these guys cut huge holes in some really thick concrete in some really...well, less than ideal situations! Worth a phone call anyways

The stone mason that did the pointing and top cap on the chimney made it out here to take a look. He brought a guy that has done a lot of concrete demo work for their masonry company. He said "we can do it, I need to get back to you on a price when I can research how long of a demo hammer bit I can get."

So that was great news. If their price is sky high, I'll try the drilling service idea. Thanks!

 

[awest74]

Quick update for those interested. Turns out I had a 9 inch liner all the way up the chimney from a previous owner, so am doing the install myself. Company dropped of the Large Arch top Hybrid yesterday. I was able to drill through the firebox and snake the greenstart tube and power cord into the basement. Easy to write, lots of work to achive. The firebox was 1/4 thick steel, but a cheap harbor freight step bit, some gear oil and a low speed drill made quick work of it. Carried the insert into my living room with the help of a neighbor and would be set to go, except the guy who came to inspect the fireplace before the purchase wrongly assumed my liner was 8", so I am held up waiting for a 9" coupling.

Anyway, excited to get it going and will try an post some pictures of the install.

One questions I have is, as noted I have a steel firebox that is easily large enough for the insert. Since the 9" liner almost complete fills the opening into the 9x9 flue, and the chimney is in the center of the house, not on an outside wall, I was considering just filling any gaps between the liner and flue with a few inches of roxul and skipping the blocking plate. Can anyone suggest reasons I shouldnt? There is 2 feet of headroom in the firebox above the fireplace area, but it is pretty small volume since it angles into the 9x9 flue. The other option is to get some sheet metal and make a 9x9 plate that I can mount on the coupling to block off the opening after the roxul.

thoughts?

 

[webfish]

Quick update for those interested. Turns out I had a 9 inch liner all the way up the chimney from a previous owner, so am doing the install myself. Company dropped of the Large Arch top Hybrid yesterday. I was able to drill through the firebox and snake the greenstart tube and power cord into the basement. Easy to write, lots of work to achive. The firebox was 1/4 thick steel, but a cheap harbor freight step bit, some gear oil and a low speed drill made quick work of it. Carried the insert into my living room with the help of a neighbor and would be set to go, except the guy who came to inspect the fireplace before the purchase wrongly assumed my liner was 8", so I am held up waiting for a 9" coupling.

Anyway, excited to get it going and will try an post some pictures of the install.

One questions I have is, as noted I have a steel firebox that is easily large enough for the insert. Since the 9" liner almost complete fills the opening into the 9x9 flue, and the chimney is in the center of the house, not on an outside wall, I was considering just filling any gaps between the liner and flue with a few inches of roxul and skipping the blocking plate. Can anyone suggest reasons I shouldnt? There is 2 feet of headroom in the firebox above the fireplace area, but it is pretty small volume since it angles into the 9x9 flue. The other option is to get some sheet metal and make a 9x9 plate that I can mount on the coupling to block off the opening after the roxul.

thoughts?

Awest74, please start a new thread.

 

[laxin213]

Stone Mason shot me a price of $400 to demo out a 6" hole five feet long in the cinder block of the smoke chamber. He arrived at this price because he thinks its a 2 man job (1 guy holding a light, assisting in removal, other guy demo hammering and then guys switch off when fatigued) they'll take about 3 hours.

Went back to the local stove shop and they will cover $250 of it by knocking $250 off the price of the insert. Not great but it's an extra $150 out of my pocket for my insert and they met me more than halfway so I settled on that.

Mason is coming tomorrow to do the work and my new install date is 11/28 (they bumped me up as far as they could as they are typically a month out). Its been a long wait considering I started looking in August and put down a deposit in September, but at least I'll have an insert to burn this year!

Some pics of the great $400 hole coming soon

 

[laxin213]

Took 2 masons about 5 hours to do the job. 18 5 gallon buckets of debris were removed. They made the bottom 2 courses wider so they could squat and then stand to demo out the hole. Stove shop gave me a scrap piece so we could test the fit, looks like a good one. Install is 11/28 can't wait !

 

[laxin213]

Put up a scrap piece of polystyrene foam board I had around. Used painters take so I don't get any tape gunk on the brick. Maybe save some heat loss for the next 2 weeks...

Going to try to convince the wife they came early and did the install - that's the shinny chrome and blue lettered faced fireplace she wanted right??? Maybe just for a second to see if it would even get her going I really doubt it, but maybe some of the wonderful inlaws we'll be seeing on thanksgiving ... Haha

 

[laxin213]

Install was yesterday. Two questions arose:

1-they did not use a block off plate on above the insert into the chimney. Roxul was stuffed into the opening, and some insulation was also placed and taped around the liner. A plate was added at the top below the cap and the installer said he added insulation below it. Center of home chimney. Is this a problem or is it ok?

2-the manual states (and restates with emphasis) that chimney cement must be used where the insert meets the liner as well as anywhere the liner meets an adapter, and also to the chimney cap at the top. For the insert to the liner portion, they wrapped it in insulation and then taped it. the installer said it was superior to chimney cement- because cement can Crack over time . Is this true and should I change this?

Thanks for the input. I did 3 small break in fires for the last 24 hours doing some larger fires today. I have a lot to learn about loading it still I think it's a east west firebox for longer pieces and my 16"-18" pierced aren't fitting n-s...

 

[laxin213]

More pics ... First day 3 small break in fires. Second day I loosely filled the firebox and got a 6hr burn in

 

[Rickb]

Looks great! Glad after all the drama you were able to get it done.

 

[laxin213]

Thanks Rickb! I always say " I'm not on vacation until the plane is in the air ". It was a lot of setbacks, research etc, and with putting a deposit on an insert in September, to finally get it installed was worth the wait.

Funny story came up- installers said " hey a neighbor down the street from you had several feet of the same flue tile that needed to be broken out , we turned down the job" I said hey I know a mason that can do the job - maybe the owner can toss me a wood wick candle for my wife and I'll refer him and get you guys another sale!" Seems like a fair trade to me- the stove shop sells them and the boss likes 'em

 

[MadeforMedieval]

that looks really good with that TV up there. Congrats. I just installed the same one with the front face, but black. Best investment I ever made.

 

[cableman]

Looks great. My buddy had his top facia or cover plate what ever its called cut down a few inches, just enough to cover top brick. Cant remember if he did the sides too.

 

[Midway43]

I have the same on order except the regular black arch. Is your surround the standard size or the bigger one?

 

[laxin213]

Thanks for the comments guys! Good to hear there are other new owners!

have the larger surround

Is everyone going to start cutting their wood longer and loading East - West?

 

[edge-of-the-woods]

Thanks for the comments guys! Good to hear there are other new owners!

have the larger surround

Is everyone going to start cutting their wood longer and loading East - West?

How is this stove performing for you this winter? We got the new big flush Regency (CI2600) and it's not living up to the hype...

 

[laxin213]

Its really hard for me to objectively say.

1. My first woodburning insert
2. First woodburning insert in this home (2800sf) and room (33'x20') with cathedral ceilings to second floor.
3. I live in Buffalo and we've had huge temperature swings this winter so far

That being said overall I'd rate it like 3.5/5 in my view of performance. If its say 25F-30F outside and I run it all day, with the thermostat set at 60 I can get the house to 68-70. If I run it medium hot, and reload maybe 6 times that day. If I run it on 3 reloads, and have it choked mostly down, maybe 65F. The house has a TON of windows, built in 1985 and the windows are like 6' TALL. Its got to lose major heat there.

As its been this in this extreme cold snap at 10F before wind chills, and down to single digits at night, I burn it all day, medium hot and I haven't moved the thermostat up past 63F where I re-set it to.

So some operator error, some limitations of a 3.0CU foot firebox. Also my wood is cut to 16-18" and it really needs to be at like 22". I'm only loading it up so much.

Overall, I'd buy it again

 

[BurningBrutus]

Its really hard for me to objectively say.

1. My first woodburning insert
2. First woodburning insert in this home (2800sf) and room (33'x20') with cathedral ceilings to second floor.
3. I live in Buffalo and we've had huge temperature swings this winter so far

That being said overall I'd rate it like 3.5/5 in my view of performance. If its say 25F-30F outside and I run it all day, with the thermostat set at 60 I can get the house to 68-70. If I run it medium hot, and reload maybe 6 times that day. If I run it on 3 reloads, and have it choked mostly down, maybe 65F. The house has a TON of windows, built in 1985 and the windows are like 6' TALL. Its got to lose major heat there.

As its been this in this extreme cold snap at 10F before wind chills, and down to single digits at night, I burn it all day, medium hot and I haven't moved the thermostat up past 63F where I re-set it to.

So some operator error, some limitations of a 3.0CU foot firebox. Also my wood is cut to 16-18" and it really needs to be at like 22". I'm only loading it up so much.

Overall, I'd buy it again

where in buffalo are you? Im in Amherst