Hey Guys,
I ended up stopping by a neighbor yesterday and he asked me to help him move his log splitter that he was posting on craigslist. He offered it to me a few times, but I wanted a stand alone unit and this was a 3 point unit and it's been so long since I saw it that I forgot what it was. When I went to help him move it I saw it was an Iron and Oak unit with the stand and in really nice shape and priced less than I could buy the Cylinder, wedge, and valve for and I ended up giving him the money there on the spot.
Here are the specs.
Model TMVH03/HYD
Force/Tonnage 20 ton @ 3000 psi
Tractor Hitch Cat. 1, 2 or 3
Beam, Heavy-duty 6" rail
Wedge 6" high carbon stee
Cylinder Stroke 24"
Cylinder Size 4" x 24"
Log Opening 24.5" max
Operating Position Vertical/Horizontal
Pin Width 36"
Weight 515 lbs
I did some research on it and found out it requires at least 8 GPM, but 14 GPM provides acceptable cycle times. I Just have an older John Deere 770 which only does 5.3 GPM, so that option is out and a bit of a bummer. He was running it on a John Deere 2020 which has a 10.5 GPM pump and a closed hydraulic system. I remember him stating that it was much slower than his new northern tools splitter. He also thinks they may have mounted a special valve on the unit due to the closed hydraulic system on the tractor.
Would this unit be worth mounting and engine, pump, filter, and reservoir to to make it a stand alone unit? I do have a 6.5 HP Harbor freight engine, a 5.5 HP Honda GC engine, and a 12 HP Kohler Command Pro sitting around. Would I need to replace that control valve if I use an off the shelf hydraulic pump?
My other option would be to flip the splitter and put the money towards a new/used stand alone unit. I don't think resale value is that hot on the 3 point splitters though, but I'm sure it's more than what I paid. I didn't haggle him at all and he would be fine if I flipped it, especially since I found out I couldn't run it off my tractor.
Previously I was watching for one of the two way 20-22 ton splitters to come up used(Northern, Brave, HF, Etc.) as I like the efficiency behind splitting on both strokes. But I've read that you can set up a traditional splitter to be just as fast if you size the components correctly and most wood only requires a few inches of travel to split, so the dual direction isn't always used.
Oak, Cherry, and Maple are the three primary hard woods I get my hands on. With some Hickory, Ash, Elm, Black Locust, Aspen, and Box Elder thrown in the mix.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Scott
I ended up stopping by a neighbor yesterday and he asked me to help him move his log splitter that he was posting on craigslist. He offered it to me a few times, but I wanted a stand alone unit and this was a 3 point unit and it's been so long since I saw it that I forgot what it was. When I went to help him move it I saw it was an Iron and Oak unit with the stand and in really nice shape and priced less than I could buy the Cylinder, wedge, and valve for and I ended up giving him the money there on the spot.
Here are the specs.
Model TMVH03/HYD
Force/Tonnage 20 ton @ 3000 psi
Tractor Hitch Cat. 1, 2 or 3
Beam, Heavy-duty 6" rail
Wedge 6" high carbon stee
Cylinder Stroke 24"
Cylinder Size 4" x 24"
Log Opening 24.5" max
Operating Position Vertical/Horizontal
Pin Width 36"
Weight 515 lbs
I did some research on it and found out it requires at least 8 GPM, but 14 GPM provides acceptable cycle times. I Just have an older John Deere 770 which only does 5.3 GPM, so that option is out and a bit of a bummer. He was running it on a John Deere 2020 which has a 10.5 GPM pump and a closed hydraulic system. I remember him stating that it was much slower than his new northern tools splitter. He also thinks they may have mounted a special valve on the unit due to the closed hydraulic system on the tractor.
Would this unit be worth mounting and engine, pump, filter, and reservoir to to make it a stand alone unit? I do have a 6.5 HP Harbor freight engine, a 5.5 HP Honda GC engine, and a 12 HP Kohler Command Pro sitting around. Would I need to replace that control valve if I use an off the shelf hydraulic pump?
My other option would be to flip the splitter and put the money towards a new/used stand alone unit. I don't think resale value is that hot on the 3 point splitters though, but I'm sure it's more than what I paid. I didn't haggle him at all and he would be fine if I flipped it, especially since I found out I couldn't run it off my tractor.
Previously I was watching for one of the two way 20-22 ton splitters to come up used(Northern, Brave, HF, Etc.) as I like the efficiency behind splitting on both strokes. But I've read that you can set up a traditional splitter to be just as fast if you size the components correctly and most wood only requires a few inches of travel to split, so the dual direction isn't always used.
Oak, Cherry, and Maple are the three primary hard woods I get my hands on. With some Hickory, Ash, Elm, Black Locust, Aspen, and Box Elder thrown in the mix.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Scott