Log splitter opinions

[VirginiaIron]

What kind of formula did you use to find that figure? That's good information to know.

Purchase price divided by the hours used/accumulated on the machine.
[Edit- $30,000 purchase price divided by 300 hours on machine = $100 hour operating cost. $30k/100 hours = $300 hour.]

 

[jaoneill]

I have also considered the benefits and downsides to the tractor splitter. I still don't know. Eventually I'd like to have a SxS and I feel like that would be an easier rig to drag the splitter through the woods. I do like the idea of one less small engine to maintain, but I also have to always use the tractor to split firewood.

Is it really that much slower with the larger cylinder? I've never used a hydraulic splitter before. I'd just hate to come across some stuff the hydro splitter can't handle. Maybe get a 22T V/H stand alone and get a high tonnage splitter for the tractor?

I can promise you that a 22T will split 95% or more of what you have to split. You might have to occasionally spin the log to a different position but virtually all will split. Compare cycle times, that will tell the tale; but keep in mind that the times manufacturers list are theoretical and should be taken with a grain of salt.
I run my V/H just at about 3/4 throttle, still fast enough for an old guy to keep up with but not wasting fuel and adding excessive wear and tear on the machine. I will step it up if I have help to feed it but rarely do. I use the 3 pt unit on a 48 hp tractor with a 15 gpm hydraulic pump and run the tractor at just over 1000 rpm (fast idle) to give me a similar cycle time. Both are 22T and the only blocks I can't split are those with large knots resulting in 90 degree reverses in the grain; 50T probably wouldn't split them, they are noodle material.....

 

[jaoneill]

Purchase price divided by the hours used/accumulated on the machine.
[Edit- $30,000 purchase price divided by 300 hours on machine = $100 hour operating cost. $30k/100 hours = $300 hour.]

I would venture that your formula is flawed. Hourly depreciation would be calculated using the expected design life of the machine, not hours currently on the clock. I believe that hour meters are also tied to rpm's and don't reflect real time. Run a machine at half throttle for an hour and see what the hour meter reads, you'll be surprised.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I would venture that your formula is flawed. Hourly depreciation would be calculated using the expected design life of the machine, not hours currently on the clock. I believe that hour meters are also tied to rpm's and don't reflect real time. Run a machine at half throttle for an hour and see what the hour meter reads, you'll be surprised.

I agree that formula is subjective. However, the costs per hour are justifyable, or not, to the user. If one purchases a $150k machine and you blow the engine or transmission out of warranty, one will realize, very quickly how much per hour that machine cost to run. Conversley, one could accurately say they have 3000 hours on a $30k machine and determine the machine cost per hour is $1[0] an hour - not including tires, batteries, fuel, etc.

 

[jaoneill]

I agree that formula is subjective. However, the costs per hour are justifyable, or not, to the user. If one purchases a $150k machine and you blow the engine or transmission out of warranty, one will realize, very quickly how much per hour that machine cost to run. Conversley, one could accurately say they have 3000 hours on a $30k machine and determine the machine cost per hour is $1 an hour - not including tires, batteries, fuel, etc.

Having farmed most of my life, and had anywhere from six to fifteen tractors at any given time, I can say with some confidence that, if maintained and not abused, the average tractor will function with no major repairs for at least 4,000 hours, most go to 6,000 hrs before an engine overhaul. Years ago I bought a new Romanian made, Universal, 60hp tractor (considered a throwaway) that had 10,000 hrs on the clock when I sold it and it still ran flawlessly.
Occasionally a person gets unlucky. We currently have an 80 hp Mahindra that spun a bearing and had to have the engine rebuilt at 1,900 hours to the tune of $6,000 for parts. Needless to say we'll never buy another one of that breed (we rebuilt a comparable hp Ford with 7,200 hrs on the clock, the year before for $1,400 in parts).

 

[SpaceBus]

Having farmed most of my life, and had anywhere from six to fifteen tractors at any given time, I can say with some confidence that, if maintained and not abused, the average tractor will function with no major repairs for at least 4,000 hours, most go to 6,000 hrs before an engine overhaul. Years ago I bought a new Romanian made, Universal, 60hp tractor (considered a throwaway) that had 10,000 hrs on the clock when I sold it and it still ran flawlessly.
Occasionally a person gets unlucky. We currently have an 80 hp Mahindra that spun a bearing and had to have the engine rebuilt at 1,900 hours to the tune of $6,000 for parts. Needless to say we'll never buy another one of that breed (we rebuilt a comparable hp Ford with 7,200 hrs on the clock, the year before for $1,400 in parts).

Slowly I plan on taking all of the trade classes at the local community College. I've already taken a handful of automotive classes (not that I needed them, but the GI bill makes it worth while) including engines. The local school offers heavy duty diesel which is awesome. I should be able to maintain the tractor I buy and whatever equipment, aside from major failures that require special tools, once I get a roofed parking structure built.

 

[SpaceBus]

Well, whatever work my body will let me do, which means slowly.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Check the speed against the 22 ton. The 22 has more than enough power and is cheaper and faster

I agree with you on this.. i have the 22 ton and the 27 ton.. my go to is the 22 ton.. i loaned my 27 to to my brother..the 22 ton has split everything i put in gront of it.. rounds to 36inches

 

[DITTY22]

just bought this county line 25ton splitter a few weeks ago. Seems like it should split most anything. I also looked at the 3pt splitters for the tractor but the thought of running up all the hours on the Deere @ 30k replacement value to the $999 for the self contained unit it was a no brainer.


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[Tomyv]

I purchased the 22 ton rugged made with the cradle and log lift and I have been absolutely thrilled with it for the price.

 

[EODMSgt]

I have also considered the benefits and downsides to the tractor splitter. I still don't know. Eventually I'd like to have a SxS and I feel like that would be an easier rig to drag the splitter through the woods. I do like the idea of one less small engine to maintain, but I also have to always use the tractor to split firewood.

I looked at the 3-point system years ago when I purchased the tractor but preferred the flexibility of the tow-behind splitter. I can hook the splitter up to the SxS and get it into a lot more places than I can get the tractor. I can leave the splitter in the woods and haul the splits out with the SxS. Much more efficient for my purposes than a 3-point splitter (I realize everyone's uses/situations are different, just my $.02). Plus it's one less implement I have to change out on the tractor and I can leave the splitter set up and ready to go where I split most of my rounds while I use the tractor elsewhere.

 

[SpaceBus]

I looked at the 3-point system years ago when I purchased the tractor but preferred the flexibility of the tow-behind splitter. I can hook the splitter up to the SxS and get it into a lot more places than I can get the tractor. I can leave the splitter in the woods and haul the splits out with the SxS. Much more efficient for my purposes than a 3-point splitter (I realize everyone's uses/situations are different, just my $.02). Plus it's one less implement I have to change out on the tractor and I can leave the splitter set up and ready to go where I split most of my rounds while I use the tractor elsewhere.

I did end up with a self contained Brave 20t dual split unit. It's fairly light and I can move it by hand on flat surfaces, but that only includes our driveway. If I need to move it more than 20 feet, I put a hitch on the tractor and move it. Because like you I usually have something on my 3pt hitch I invested in a clamp on receiver for the loader bucket. This has proven to be very handy and I can also put my hitch mounted vise on it and have a mobile work bench, sort of.

 

[jaoneill]

I did end up with a self contained Brave 20t dual split unit. It's fairly light and I can move it by hand on flat surfaces, but that only includes our driveway. If I need to move it more than 20 feet, I put a hitch on the tractor and move it. Because like you I usually have something on my 3pt hitch I invested in a clamp on receiver for the loader bucket. This has proven to be very handy and I can also put my hitch mounted vise on it and have a mobile work bench, sort of.

As I mentioned in a previous post I have both 3-pt and a stand alone splitter. I usually prefer to use the 3-pt but as you have noted the stand alone has its advantages. FWIW, I generally tow mine behind the gator but they can be a bear to manuever in the woods by hand. Years ago I invested in 13" trailer wheels/tires; like night and day, it makes all the difference in the world.

 

[baseroom]

View attachment 240269just bought this county line 25ton splitter a few weeks ago. Seems like it should split most anything. I also looked at the 3pt splitters for the tractor but the thought of running up all the hours on the Deere @ 30k replacement value to the $999 for the self contained unit it was a no brainer.


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I got the same one month and a 1/2 ago. I agree!! It spits everything, starts on first pull!

 

[pjohnson]

I guess I started this thread a while back and kind of forgot about it. I ended up buying a splitter from a small local manufacture close to me called Wolfe Ridge Mfg. He is a small business manufacturing splitters with USA components, makes a very nice line of splitters. Definitely not the cheapest option but one of the better splitters I've come across. They met all my criteria, USA made, fast cycle times, Honda engine, log lift, 4 and 6 way wedge. So far very happy with it makes a pile of wood in a hurry, can't think of anything I want to change or modify.

 

[SpaceBus]

I guess I started this thread a while back and kind of forgot about it. I ended up buying a splitter from a small local manufacture close to me called Wolfe Ridge Mfg. He is a small business manufacturing splitters with USA components, makes a very nice line of splitters. Definitely not the cheapest option but one of the better splitters I've come across. They met all my criteria, USA made, fast cycle times, Honda engine, log lift, 4 and 6 way wedge. So far very happy with it makes a pile of wood in a hurry, can't think of anything I want to change or modify.

Wow, those are some serious machines on the website. I like the log lift option.

 

[pjohnson]

From my past experience using a log splitter with a lift it was the one thing I had to have. I did buy the Pro 28 model his lowest price “home owner” model. I kind of wanted the next model up with hydraulic adjustable wedge but was just too much additional money and I find I don’t really miss it. So far it’s pushed 25 inch oak thru a 6 way wedge without slowing down. Very impressed with the speed and power of these splitters over anything I’ve used before.

 

[SpaceBus]

From my past experience using a log splitter with a lift it was the one thing I had to have. I did buy the Pro 28 model his lowest price “home owner” model. I kind of wanted the next model up with hydraulic adjustable wedge but was just too much additional money and I find I don’t really miss it. So far it’s pushed 25 inch oak thru a 6 way wedge without slowing down. Very impressed with the speed and power of these splitters over anything I’ve used before.

How is the portability? For my splitter I wanted the most portable and a Honda enfine, I think it worked for me. If there is a round too big for me to lift, I'll set it aside for the tractor to lift.

 

[VirginiaIron]

How is the portability? For my splitter I wanted the most portable and a Honda enfine, I think it worked for me. If there is a round too big for me to lift, I'll set it aside for the tractor to lift.

I used a tractor previously before my setup. I was always concerned about the tight quarters and becoming injured or trapped. And with a helper, I would have to be concerned about their mistakes with the clutch, loader etc, and my largest rounds weren't monstrous. For me, the lift has taken those concerns away and made splitting more pleasant, while opening up a whole new convenience to my wood splitting tasks. The portability is reduced in the sence moving the splitter cannot be accomplished with the craftsman mower on wet soil.

 

[maple1]

How is the portability? For my splitter I wanted the most portable and a Honda enfine, I think it worked for me. If there is a round too big for me to lift, I'll set it aside for the tractor to lift.

Portability and being able to reposition easily by hand is huge for me also. I tow mine thru the trees right to the downed tree with my ATV.

 

[pjohnson]

How is the portability? For my splitter I wanted the most portable and a Honda enfine, I think it worked for me. If there is a round too big for me to lift, I'll set it aside for the tractor to lift.

One thing I noticed right away is the Pro 28 model I have is almost perfectly balanced, you can pick up the tongue end very easy like maybe 10 pounds of lift. It rolls very easy on level hard ground. The tongue is also removable and can be installed on the other end, so you can split a pile of wood and pull the splitter away from it. It does weigh around 1300 pounds so your not gonna pull it up or down a hill, but I’ve got a tractor for moving it around.

 

[Dune]

A quick word on super splitters.
Super Splitters will split any wood that can be split by an ax or maul. They will not split crotches and uglies.

 

[paulnlee]

I have a Speeco 28 ton, ten years old that has been sitting covered in the pasture for 3 years. Got a load of rounds from local tree guy late last year so last week I decided to see if it would start. Cleared the mice nests and couldn't pull the starter. Took it apart, cleaned the rust, changed the magneto, plug and filter, added gas and the damn thing started right up. Split about a cord of oak & hickory today. Amazing

 

[WiscWoody]

I guess I started this thread a while back and kind of forgot about it. I ended up buying a splitter from a small local manufacture close to me called Wolfe Ridge Mfg. He is a small business manufacturing splitters with USA components, makes a very nice line of splitters. Definitely not the cheapest option but one of the better splitters I've come across. They met all my criteria, USA made, fast cycle times, Honda engine, log lift, 4 and 6 way wedge. So far very happy with it makes a pile of wood in a hurry, can't think of anything I want to change or modify.

Wolfe Ridge Mfg is close to me too, I’m in Winter WI. 70 miles north of Eau Claire. Congratulations on getting a very nice splitter from them, they make nice stuff no doubt about it.

 

[WiscWoody]

I agree that formula is subjective. However, the costs per hour are justifyable, or not, to the user. If one purchases a $150k machine and you blow the engine or transmission out of warranty, one will realize, very quickly how much per hour that machine cost to run. Conversley, one could accurately say they have 3000 hours on a $30k machine and determine the machine cost per hour is $1 an hour - not including tires, batteries, fuel, etc.

I wander if you meant $10 an hour...? $30,000 divided by 3000= $10 an hour if I calculated it right in my head.