Log splitter opinions

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pjohnson

Burning Hunk
Oct 2, 2013
145
Ok getting tired of the fiskers, time to start thinking about a splitter. Looking for opinions on different types of splitters. Problem is the brother in-law has a 40 year old home made splitter with a hyd log lift that I really like. But buying something similar would be in the 5000 dollar range. What’s everyone like?

The horizontal/vertical ones, seems about the best compromise. Not sure I want to be bent over wrestling big rounds at my age and picking up everything off the ground.

I’ve used horizontal only one with hyd log lift. I really like this style. Seems this style with fast cycle times and 4 or 6 way wedge would be the nicest set up. Biggest draw back is prices are 5000 and up.

Kinetic ones I find interesting not sure I want to deal with lack of way to get bigger rounds on it. But I do like the speed.

So what’s everyone’s likes or dislikes on different styles of splitters, I do like a good quality tool that works. Not necessarily the cheapest one I can find.
 
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Approaching 58. I just don't deal with large diameter wood and I love my Super Split. I like the working height, the work table, the ease of moving it around without help, the speed and the piece and quiet with the electric 220 motor. I went 220 to avoid people asking me to borrow it AND 220 runs cheaper. The Honda is sitting on my basement floor. I'm rather sure the SS will outlast me and I know if I ever get tired of wood and move to a pellet boiler the SS holds it's value very well.

I needed some custom hydro hoses for my snowblower. I'm even more happy with the SS.
 
The S.S. looks nice I consider it if I could get large rounds on it. I’ve already got a lot of 24 plus maple and oak logs not going to let em rot. I’ve thought about using tractor loader to lift them but seems like a lot of screwing around.
 
The S.S. looks nice I consider it if I could get large rounds on it. I’ve already got a lot of 24 plus maple and oak logs not going to let em rot. I’ve thought about using tractor loader to lift them but seems like a lot of screwing around.

Speeco 22 ton. Neighbors is 12 to 13 years old and works as good as my 4 year old County Line which is also a Speeco. It tilts vertical for big stuff or if you like to split while sitting down. Tilt would be at the top of the list for any splitter for me cause I hate unneccessary hard work and I like splitting in my chair.
 
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Since a lift seems to be your #1 consideration - there is a very reasonably priced 'box storish' type splitter out there that has a lift. I have seen it on here before but can't remember the make/model. Also don't know if it's any good or not, but seemed like a lot for the money at the time.

(That likely didn't help much but maybe someone knows what I'm talking about & can post it up).
 
This may or may not have been it:

(broken link removed to https://www.palletforks.com/3-point-hydraulic-log-wood-splitter-37-ton-tractor-mount-w-log-lift-catch.html)
 
Rugged made is probably the one your thinking of. Rather then specific brands I was looking for opinions, pros and cons, likes or dislikes of different styles of splitters. Like why do you like your kinetic, or vertical/ horizontal or horizontal with log lift.
 
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I have a Wallenstein/Surge Master H/V model. Have not felt a need for anything different.

I haul it right to the tree behind my ATV ( or behind my ATV and trailer, B-Train like) & split right where the rounds landed. It is compact & easy to move & very capable. If the rounds are too big to comfortably lift, I swing it vertical. Makes things easy. It is laid out right - very good balance, the control equal to work from either side, and engine up front out of harms way. Some features most all box store units don't have if you study them.

Most box store splitters are pretty cookie cutter in design & construction - which may be OK depending on preferences & situation.
 
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What’s your approx budget? I Ve been using a 30 yr old didier. Just replaced engine for 100$. It’s only horizontal operation but it has split whatever I can manage to get onto the beam. Sounds like you may be spoiled by using you bil’s. Bad time of year but look for used. You will kick yourself for not doing it sooner, whatever you go with.
 
Yes I’ve been spoiled using one with a log lift. It just seems like the most efficient way to run em thru a 4 or 6 way wedge and be done and the splits slide off the end. The vertical ones just don’t look comfortable to use bent over or sitting on a log bent over to use them. Trying to move logs around sitting down.maybe I’m wrong that’s why I’m getting opinions. Might have to rent one see how it works.

I’ve been watching craigslist but they are either junk or they want 200 or 300 less then I could buy a new one for.
 
As far as lifts for the money, RUGGEDMADE seems to have the best deal going dollar wise for a complete unit.
 
Both a vertical and horizontal option on the unit is a must.

Be aware of the location of the engine relative to where the log will be split as well. I wouldnt reccommend one where logs/splits/debris can easily fall on the engine.

Dual sided log cradles are also a must
 
after seeing Craigslist had little in the way of decent splitters, I looked up Wood Splitters Direct and saw the Dirty Hand Tools packages they offer for the 30 and 35 ton models. Seems like a pretty sweet deal all under $2,000.
 
i would put the rounds in the loader bucket put the loader level with the log splitter and split the big rounds and throw the pieces back into the other side of the loader bucket. take them somewhere and dump them
but the log lift is absolutely marvelous it’s also a staging table to put six or eight or 10 rounds on off of the trailer and then split from that log lift as a staging table
 
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I keep reading and watching utube videos on how everyone loves their super split kinetic splitters. They sure look interesting but no log lift. I could use my small tractor loader to lift large rounds. Seems slow but workable. But by the time I get a super split with options I like and shipping it’s appoaching the price of a hydraulic splitter with log lift. I’ll just keep over thinking it till I get my taxes done.
 
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If you find a splitter with a good log lifter that's not too much, post what you get. I'm leaning towards a vertical/horizontal DHT 35T splitter and just running it vertical for the really heavy stuff.
 
If you find a splitter with a good log lifter that's not too much, post what you get. I'm leaning towards a vertical/horizontal DHT 35T splitter and just running it vertical for the really heavy stuff.


Check the speed against the 22 ton. The 22 has more than enough power and is cheaper and faster
 
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Check the speed against the 22 ton. The 22 has more than enough power and is cheaper and faster

Thank you for saying something, because I have no idea what size splitter is really necessary. I just figured if I got a 30-35t splitter I would never need a bigger splitter.
 
I haven't found one I like that's not too much. Right now the one I like most in my research is made by Wolf Ridge a smaller company close to me. They make some beautiful splitters but start at about 5000. I do prefer to buy usa made even if its a few bucks more. Swisher also seems to be made in usa and has a nice vert one but Im not sure if they are still making splitters. Does anyone know if Swisher got out of the splitter business?
 
I guess the 22 has now evolved into a 25. Anyways much more power than you will need and one of the most highly rated. They also go on sale for $100.00 off frequently.
(broken link removed)
 
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Thank you for saying something, because I have no idea what size splitter is really necessary. I just figured if I got a 30-35t splitter I would never need a bigger splitter.
35 ton is nice for the once in 5 years that you might need the extra power but they tend to be slower. Tonnage is determined primarily by cylinder size and the high tonage, large cylinders take more oil volume (and many times higher pressure) that usually translates into slower cycle times, unless they are fed with a comparably larger pump which they seldom have. I have a 3 point hitch vertical unit that I built forty five years ago and much prefer it to the horizontal/vertical store bought one that I only use occasionally. I originally built the 3 pt unit with a 6" cylinder and it would literally split anything; it would cut directly through a sugar maple knot if the knot didn't split. About 25 years ago, to speed up the process, I replaced the 6" cylinder with a 4"; half the cycle time and rarely come across anything it won't split.
The biggest advantages to the 3 pt vertical are twofold: 1 - you don't have to maintain another small engine and hydraulic system and, 2 - it is highly maneuverable. Simply back up to larger rounds, drop the splitter shoe to ground level and it takes a minimum of effort to jackass the round onto the splitter. I knock the larger rounds into manageable size pieces then raise the 3 pt until the shoe is at a comfortable working height and reduce the pieces to final size from a standing position.
 
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35 ton is nice for the once in 5 years that you might need the extra power but they tend to be slower. Tonnage is determined primarily by cylinder size and the high tonage, large cylinders take more oil volume (and many times higher pressure) that usually translates into slower cycle times, unless they are fed with a comparably larger pump which they seldom have. I have a 3 point hitch vertical unit that I built forty five years ago and much prefer it to the horizontal/vertical store bought one that I only use occasionally. I originally built the 3 pt unit with a 6" cylinder and it would literally split anything; it would cut directly through a sugar maple knot if the knot didn't split. About 25 years ago, to speed up the process, I replaced the 6" cylinder with a 4"; half the cycle time and rarely come across anything it won't split.
The biggest advantages to the 3 pt vertical are twofold: 1 - you don't have to maintain another small engine and hydraulic system and, 2 - it is highly maneuverable. Simply back up to larger rounds, drop the splitter shoe to ground level and it takes a minimum of effort to jackass the round onto the splitter. I knock the larger rounds into manageable size pieces then raise the 3 pt until the shoe is at a comfortable working height and reduce the pieces to final size from a standing position.

I have also considered the benefits and downsides to the tractor splitter. I still don't know. Eventually I'd like to have a SxS and I feel like that would be an easier rig to drag the splitter through the woods. I do like the idea of one less small engine to maintain, but I also have to always use the tractor to split firewood.

Is it really that much slower with the larger cylinder? I've never used a hydraulic splitter before. I'd just hate to come across some stuff the hydro splitter can't handle. Maybe get a 22T V/H stand alone and get a high tonnage splitter for the tractor?
 
I have also considered the benefits and downsides to the tractor splitter. I still don't know. Eventually I'd like to have a SxS and I feel like that would be an easier rig to drag the splitter through the woods. I do like the idea of one less small engine to maintain, but I also have to always use the tractor to split firewood.

Is it really that much slower with the larger cylinder? I've never used a hydraulic splitter before. I'd just hate to come across some stuff the hydro splitter can't handle. Maybe get a 22T V/H stand alone and get a high tonnage splitter for the tractor?
I have found the tractor 3 point units seem to be slower. Plus, your hydraulic system heats up and, imo, the cost per hour ratio is not economical. Depending on the tractor, you may be $100 hour, or more (purchase price divided by hours used) depending on the age and cost. I don't want that kind of wear and tear on my tractor [Edit- to split wood]. Currently, I am running $71 an hour on my loader just to break even. That doesn't include fuel, wear, or my labor.
 
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I have found the tractor 3 point units seem to be slower. Plus, your hydraulic system heats up and, imo, the cost per hour ratio is not economical. Depending on the tractor, you may be $100 hour, or more (purchase price divided by hours used) depending on the age and cost. I don't want that kind of wear and tear on my tractor. Currently, I am running $71 an hour on my loader just to break even. That doesn't include fuel, wear, or my labor.

What kind of formula did you use to find that figure? That's good information to know.